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I noticed that 1.21 was out, so I decided to try installing that to see if it would fix the issue, but I'm still SOL. Duet_Version.pdf I even tried Char'les solution of commenting out M666, but that didn't work either. What the heck is going on? How am I the only 1 with this issue? (btw, I've ...

ok, I resolved my issue. First of all, I commented out initially m665 and m666, got everthing working and as soon as I ran m666 commented in, I started having issues, so I just run auto calibration before every print and call it good. I haven't updated the firmware yet.... but I have printed a few ...

Alright, so I commented out M558, did G32, adjusted the G31 Z height (still working on perfect height) but everything seems to be working well. Well enough to print the bondtech extrusion holder. What settings does everyone use for destring in KISSlicer?

I don't see a config override file....

Hello Char'les Grey, Looks like you have something wrong in the config-override.g and to process config-override,.g at startup, you need a M501 command at the very end of config.g; or if you have a T0 command at the end of config,g then put it, right before the T0 line. Added M501 before T0, still ...

dc42 wrote:It sounds like you are doing something at the start of the print that is resetting the Z=0 position. What is the sequence you are using to calibrate and print, and what is your slicer start script?

I use kisslicer, where would I find that info?

I changed it to z-.53, no change, then -.75, and then -1.5, no change, seems to continue.... thoughts?

update: changed it to -5.0 and nothing changed...

Thanks, I'll try that at lunch or when I get home tonight and update.

Alright, so I'm going neurotic because I can't figure this out, after bed level and auto bed compensation runs on the duetwifi, the printer head just slightly drags across the print bed, I can "Z Baby step" it up, but I'd prefer to address the issue. I feel like, I know I'm missing something simple ...

Okay, good news. I did my first test cube with the upgrades. Only thing I need to do is adjust the print head so it's not pressed up against the glass on the first couple layers.

I'm using KISSlicer and these are under the Prefix tab
so it should look like: ?

alright, after a couple scoops of ice cream, I figured it out, it was the wiring that was off at the duet. Although I followed the directions and pictures in the write ups and walk through... Now the issue I'm having is that the extruder motor is going much faster than it should while printing (as ...

I'm at a loss... anyone have a wiring/pictures of the john fsr and duet wifi boards?

I gave the connectors a gentle tug to make sure they're snug and secure. I've checked the wiring to make sure that it's correct. Is the E0 end stop wiring the same in the duet .85 vs the duet wifi?

Switched to P5, ran G30, again, it didn't crash the bed but came with the error "G30 S-1
Error: Z probe was not triggered during probing move" which leads me to think that for some reason a Z probe is expected vs. the E0 switch? Just my thoughts, I don't know how far off I am.

Okay, I'll switch it to p5. The board does indicate when I put force on it.

Does the JohnSL board produce an active low output (I1 in your M558 command)? I thought it was active high. Here's how to test the Z probe. Set the nozzle well above the bed and send G30. It should start a probing move towards the bed. Tap the bed sharply to trigger the FSRs and the head should ...

Already I swapped out the rambo for the duetwifi, and the HE280. Did my first test temp and it held... right out of the box... I've been struggling MONTHS to get a stable HE temp from the 280 and RAMBO... anyways. The issue I'm having is that the JOHNSL FSR's aren't communicating to the Duet? Well ...

So I've been searching the forums for the upgrades since I'm replacing the whole hotend and adding FSR.

I'm looking for specific directions on the:

E3D V6

FSR

I'm adding the Maker effector plate and stuff, and the tricklaser FSR Plate to complement them.

Thanks.

added some 'pipe insulation' on the bottom of the plastic bed holder and it will easily get up to 110 now, I'll probably adjust down to 12v to see if I can still achieve that, currently I'm at 13v.

Okay, so I bumped up the voltage to 13v and was able to get 101.x I recall a few weeks ago I was able to get 105 on 12v. I wish this system was consistent. Lol. I think I'm going to make an aluminum and plexiglass enclosure.

The bed terminals on the Rambo are also really close to their limits and overdriving them would make me very uncomfortable about melting them down, especially if you have an Onyx on the low end of the resistance tolerance. You probably don't need 100C for ABS. I did well with it at 90 until I got ...

pouncingiguana wrote:Also, you might want to crank up the voltage on your power supply to help it out. I run mine at almost 14 volts.

How do I do that? And are there any ramifications I should lookout for?

Check to make sure that the heated bed power wires are fully seated and tight in the compression terminal on the RAMBo. A poor connection may be robbing you of power. g. After I posted this I actually had the same idea, some were loose, ran again and no gain. I was hoping it would be something ...

Just as the title states, anything I do, I can't get the bed to heat above 97, I've been through all the v3 posts on here and looked elsewhere also. These are the settings that I currently have: Bed Heat Manager [0-3] 1 Bed PID drive max 255 Bed PID drive min 125 Bed PID P-gain 950.000 Bed PID I ...