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Replaced the fuse, now everything works!
Thank you so much! I was afraid I'd have to replace the entire board.

Why I need a better heat-bed: 1) As gchristopher pointed out, ABS needs 110, sometimes it's essential. 2) Waiting for 30 minutes to reach the temperature, having to cover the bed with something every time - that's a shame. 3) Printing small detail in PLA, or printing a huge detail where you need to ...

Ah... sure. Sorry, I was drunk and sleepy yesterday
It will obviously not work as I described. Thanks for the link once again!

Oh, I didn't know it has holders.
I've found the fuse, extracted it, it's broken. Just ordered a replacement.
Thanks for all your help, Xenocrates!

Thanks for the info! But the fuse you point out is quite expensive (considering the delivery to UK). Can I just buy any 1808 SMD 5A fuse? It will be slightly smaller, but it shouldn't be a problem, right?

Thanks for the link of useful SSR, by the way!

Hm... Agree on method 2, it will be hard to join things together. About method 1: probably agree on hot-end, it might be not 12v tolerant, but disagree on heatbed part - the board will run on 24V, it can give up to 15A to heatbed. Then the DC converter gets this 24*15=360W of power, will loose 10 ...

Hi all. I've got Max v3, and just like everyone, I have problems with a heatbed - it's definitely not enough powerful to print ABS, it hardly reaches 100, even after I tune up the voltage to 14.5. I've read how people make RAMBo run on 24V. It's fine for everything except heatbed, it's fused to 15A ...

Hi all. While changing the nozzle, I've made a terrible mistake and shortened contacts of the heater, while it was ON. LCD screen turned off, the board seems to be dead now: all LEDs are off, no power on 5V output, nothing. I tried to remove extruder heater - the board is still dead. I don't see any ...

Good point, dc42 , but my version with step-down DC-DC converter is better - it's much more efficient, so it doesn't heat at all (maybe slightly warm on touch), and it's still cheap enough ($1-2). In-line resistor or diode, linear regulator (LM317) - they will need to dissipate 3V * 0.2A = 0.6W ...

I've realized that 1) The power supply for the extruder fan is not coming from the RAMBO board separately, it's just a common supply. So if I need to put a resistor there, it will have to be on the hot-end. Which sucks. 2) The extruder fan is actually not the noisiest one. The side fan, blowing air ...

Thank you! I'll measure the current for 12V and will put a resistor. Will post the results here.

Actually, another option: just a resistor in a fan circuit. Need an estimation of fan current to calculate the Ohms needed. And it might need to be quite large to dissipate enough heat, but still it's much easier, once the supply voltage and current are constant.

Hello! Sorry if this question is already answered somewhere, haven't found anything specific. Just as everyone, I have a major problem with my heatbed, it hardly reaches 80-90 degrees, and if I print with fan on, the temperature drops to 55, which just destroys my adhesion. It's especially bad with ...