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I did not really notice a big difference in print quality, but I really didn't analyze it much. You still get that pattern on the side of the prints that i don't think you will ever get rid of with the Rambo and the steppers being used. I actually got a new Artemis, so I have not been messing with ...

Okay that fixed it.
It is now homing correctly and went through the first probe sequence.

Okay, so I punctured the wire insulation further down with my probes and got continuity.
I ended up finding the wire was broken and open inside of the insulation of the black wire right behind the crimp on connector.
Going to see if there is a new end in the box and crimp it back on.

Okay, so it appears there is an open between the green and black wires on the X motor. This should be one of the windings. Continuity between the blue and red is fine.

I finally got the Artemis put together, but the first probe was a mess. It was making weird noises and moving in wrong directions etc. After some troubleshooting I discover it is the X axis having the problem. The Y and Z move smooth when issuing a command to move them independently. The X axis ...

Okay, after all of this, I think I have my machine very well tuned and aligned mechanically. It is a little louder without the dampers, but I think it is better off without them since my pulleys are not cocked due to the dampers flex. I did tighten the belts a little more than they were and I ...

Removing mine as I type this response. I found they let the motors cock to one side under belt tension. I notice this while looking for the cause of my shifted layers. So far I have found no other mechanical issue. This has to cause more wear on the belts. Also if your motor can move and twist, how ...

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 95#p107495

I am about to undo a noise mod. I think this introduces mechanical deficiencies.

I pulled the top of my printer to inspect things. So far I found that my printer has dampers and they are causing the motors to sit cocked. One is worse than the others. I am going to have to remove the dampers. Unfortunately, this may be louder, but it may make better prints and maybe stop a belt ...

I am surprised no one has said anything about the pressure from the belt cocking the motor and pulley. My printer has some version of these and I notice today that in tension, they actually cause the motor to sit crooked. I am chasing a shifted layers issue and happened to notice this. one axis is ...

I printed one part and it came out nice. So, I figure I would setup an 8 part print. It layer shifted again. I am not sure what to do now except tear the printer apart and try to find something wrong.

I printed a batch of these in a lot of 16 and they came out great. The next round I wanted to make a larger batch and that is when this layer shift started. 2 batches of 32 both layer shifted about the same amount on the same layer. Then I redid a batch of 16 like the good batch shown here and it ...

3rd attempt at 16 parts that I successfully printed before. I added support on the overhang part. It did the same thing and shifted on the same layer (about layer 10-11). I might try to print just one tommorow night and see what happens. I did pull on the cheapskate carriers to see if the belt ...

I may have figured this out since I had time to think about it and look at the prints that I left on the bed. It seem there is a part of the print that starts to curl up as it builds up the overhang. I think when I print 16 , they stay hot enough that the nozzle just pushes them down on the next ...

I got a layer shift for the first time. It occurred about 10 layers in. I thought it was something I did on the computer since I was printing from USB and I was messing with another printer via USB at the same time, but I printed from the SD card and it did the same thing on the same layer. I ...

Recommendation for the "steps per mm calibration"? Does this mean your expected to pull the PTFE tube out of the hot end and perform the method of extruding 100mm and measuring and then adjusting the value? This is the best way? Taking that tube out is a little bit of a pain. I did it once and then ...

So, Mechanically I have this thing tuned up nicely. I spent some time making sure all the towers were perpendicular to the bed etc. I ran through the advanced calibration procedure several times. It all worked out great. I think mechanically/electically this thing is about as good as it is going to ...

So far I printed 3 things and they all came out good. They could benefit from a few little tweaks, but no issues with calibration of the bed! I am liking this printer. That piece of paper sliding around forever crap is for the birds LOL.

Hmm. how does it know the hot end assembly is level? I know it taps the nozzle to set the height. Does it use the coordinates from the 3 points it measures to calculate level since the geometry of the arms etc is fixed and known?

I cannot seem to find any info on setting the screws for the end stops. I have looked through all the documentation. I must be missing it. I bought this used and the calibration cube came out within .1mm on the first try after I fixed a couple things. However, I think I should double check these are ...

The answer is: 20 steps My other machine has a 30 step encoder. Of course they only had 12 and 30 step encoders at the electronics store, which I bought both. I could not access my printer before buying them (hour drive away). I think I will try the 30 step and see how it works since this will match ...

Can anyone confirm how many steps the encoder knob has on the LCD display? My knob is busted off (shipping damage). I want to pick up a replacement, but I am not sure how many positions it should have.

Thanks