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http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=1901 Done. Again, it had about 8mm left to go vertically...but I think a loose belt killed it :/

IMAG0634.jpg Jet perforating Gun Thread protector. I work in the oil industry. Our company loads explosives into metal tubes that then go into the oilwells and shoot holes into the tubing/casing. Often we'll try to run one of these "guns" in the hole and can't get deep enough (You'd be surprised at ...

Awesome, thanks. I will report back tomorrow once I've tried some things...I was thinking I was having a possible firmware issue since one of my motors was acting crazy....I'm pretty sure it turned out to be a loose belt >.<. It could print the first layer and loop....second layer once it sped up ...

Awesome. Thanks. Is there anyway to verify what firmware is on the Rambo? I went to upload it, and it did say "Finished uploading" But also mentioned "avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage (): timeout"

That took care of it. What board do you have selected in the Arduino 1.5.2? I don't see the Rambo on there. I tried to compile with default and it spat an error, telling me to use "Mega 2560" I used that and it compiled.

That's just it...I click the link, it downloads the Zip file labeled "RepetierMAX-master"...I extract and see some Github files...open the folder I see labeled "Repetier" and there is no .pde file. The list of files in that folder are Commands.cpp configuration.h eeprom.cpp eeprom.h extruder.cpp ...

Alright, so I've gotten some older firmware to run correctly. It seems the only way I ever get firmware to successfully compile or "verify" on Arduino is if I find a complete set. I've seen a lot of links to firmwares people say they're running successfully, but I seem to never be able to even open ...

I had a similar issue. For some reason, if I set the fan to turn on and turn on heat to the hot end, then and only then will it get hot. I don't actually have any fans but for some reason this seems to work. I just add M106 to the start of my G-code to enable the fan.

Word of advice, it takes quite a bit of material to get it started. I've set mine up to 12 loops around before I start an object. At least if a solid first layer is required. Temp wise I have it set at 248C. I figure it'll probably be close to the 245 recommended by Taulman. It does tend to take a ...

Anyone end up getting a nicely level bed? My bows quite a bit in center. Significantly enough to skew a few things.

I'm not too savvy, but I suppose you could, I believe there's a setting for offsets for dual extruders. I've only ran 1 though, but hopefully that can get you started.

My prints come right out. You can pull the Nylon sheet of and it's pretty flexible, so you can bend it. Not much warping to speak of. I used a razor knife to score it a few times in a circular shape, then used pliers to break the edges off. Biggest issue now is the Onyx not being level, thinking of ...

I'm relatively new to 3D Printing, but I've had my eye on Nylon 618 for a bit. At anyrate, I still have some issues to work out, but one of them is that even with 7 loops set on Slicer, the Nylon 618 filament (1.75mm) isn't coming out evenly. What setting within slicer can I use to presumably boost ...

I had HORRIBLE infill, even for an uneven bed it was bad. Then I noticed after much forum searching that it was a result of Slicer trying to print .85 layers or larger, I think it might have been larger but I've since set them all to .55 in the advanced tab and got much closer at .7 thickness, now I ...

Slicer reads 64 layers, which is exactly what it should be. The object should be 12.75mm, but it rounds to 12.8 would be my guess. As each layer should be .2, it should be 64 layers, and indeed that is what Slicer states. I have some of the newer stepper motors. I followed the instructions on ...

When I export the file, the dimensions in Solidworks are 12.75mm, when Sliced, the resulting G-code has 64, 0.2mm layers, or 12.8mm, but when the end product is complete, it measures 14.35mm tall. Any ideas?

How slow did you have to go to get the bumps/ridges into the "grip" part of that screw? The level of detail for something that small is impressive.

Amazon. I got 2 sheets for about 8-10 dollars a piece, and used second day shipping (needed it for a business). http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MAJ15S/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Or this, they're pretty much the same. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070ZF8CI/ref=oh_details_o00 ...

Anyone have any tips on smoothing the surface of an object? The bottom (on a thin nylon sheet) is absolutely smooth, but the outside of my object where the Nylon layers meet obviously is a little bumpy. Is a fine grit sand paper the best solution? Or some sort of quick chemical bath? Fyi, I'm using ...

A Red light comes on...but not if the fan is turned on exclusively, and not if the Hot end is turned on exlusively. If both are on in Repetier, then it lights and the bed heats.

So, I'm not exactly sure what I did, but for some reason now, if I turn on the fan (The one that's not there, I don't have one) and the heat bed, then the hot end actually heats up. Not sure what happened or why they both have to be set to on, but it works!

The Fuse didn't look blown when I took it out, but I'll try to find another one.

Also, when I enable a fan in Repetier, no LED came on either.

I seem to have issues getting my Hot end to heat up. In Repetier, the bed will turn on, no problem, and the LED comes on the RAMBo...I can home all the axis, move the carriage around, etc. When it comes time to turn the hot end on though, the LED never comes on. Both Thermisters are working and I ...