upside down effector?

[DeltaCon]

I am upgrading my old melamine cheapskates and arms to the new injection molded skated and ball-cup-arms. I think I am quite done, but am looking for an efficient mount for the E3D V6. In the upgrade guide on duzoki Gene shows that the balls on the the effector should be below the effector, but for the choice of fan shrouds it would be a lot easier to turn the effector upside down. That give much more clearance for the shrouds. I think with some slight modification of the lower peek fan screw that should be possible, and I think I have seen examples of this way of mounting.

- Is there a reason behind the ball-cups on the bottom of the effector?
- can I get away with loosing the "blobs" in the red circle? That would give more room for positioning the heatblock.
- does someone now of a nice design of fan shroud that fits this effector? I would rather not go the "mount the hotend below the effector" route.

Thanks again!

[bruceg]

I ran Prometheus hot ends like that for quite a while with the nozzle sucked up close to the bottom of the effector in order to (without great analysis) minimize effector tilt effects. However if you get too greedy with bringing the nozzle up, and print much more than 100cm or so from centre, the lower edge of the ball arm socket may contact the bed clips...

[DeltaCon]

I choose to chop off the two lower screw holes of the E3D peekfan, to make room for the ball-joint screws on the effector. This way it is no problem to have the ball-joints above the effector, instead of below. That makes finding layerfans a lot more easy I hope (not searched yet). Also it is much easier to get a good look at the layers while printing because the effector is not hiding it. It costs a few mm of build height, but it certainly beats having the HE hanging below the effector like many have.

All in all the conversion to the injectionmolded skates and ball-cup-arms costed me more than 55mm of buildheight at first. I regained about 8mm by screwing the endstop screw in completely, and I think I would regain another 10mm just by getting shorter endstopscrews. The really are too long. But hey, who is really going over the max height?

[TN Yankee]

While I didn't trim my fan, I did trim two of the little nubs used as screw guides coming up from the bottom of the effector (2 others are visible to the left of the right-side ball joint in this picture. My 713Maker mount has never seemed to fit quite right with the E3D V6, and in fact I added 2 flat washers under each leg to give adequate height so the hotend fan could properly mount to the lowest heat sink fins.

While it makes for a cleaner install, I'm not a fan of trimming wires short, so I tend to have many extra mm's of wire snaking around the mount. The kapton tape visible near the bottom is on an LED light ring; an earlier installation had it near the ends of some screws, so I added it for insulation. I didn't bother to remove it when I rearranged the whole mount.