Flateric's Prints and Tests collection
Flateric's Prints and Tests collection
Just a few things I have been printing.
- Attachments
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"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs
Re: Flateric's Prints and Tests collection
Those are nice! how did you print the dual color vase? Is it ABS or PLA?
Also, how much time did you have to spend calibrating?
Also, how much time did you have to spend calibrating?
Re: Flateric's Prints and Tests collection
The vase is actually not one piece, it is made of two cancelled prints and they just happen to fit together nicely. (cat unplugged my cable for the red one and I messed up the clear one. Clear is PLA, red is ABS)
I can't really accurately say how long it has taken me to calibrate my printer. There have been too many factors involved. I spent a good amount of time researching and adjusting magnetic arms only in the end to put that project on hold.
But if I had to guess from a completely new to the 3D printer thing (which I was) I would say that a good solid uninterrupted 6 hours (not including print time) would be needed from the new to 3D printers starting point.
Now if I had to do it again, not including print time I would say I could easily calibrate my printer in less than 1 hour. I infact pretty much do this daily with my messing and fussing and seeing if this improves print when I adjust X or degrades when I adjust X. I re-calibrate every time I remove my hot end or try a different hot end or arm setup. So I really believe that figure is accurate for sure.
My steps to get going from a refresh of any involved component goes something like this.
- Check all parts on machine for snug but not overly tight fit.
. Belts
. Linear slides, xyz, again tight but not too snug. Overly tight is just as bad for print quality as too loose. Too loose will eat belts though. But just right allows for very free movement and fast speeds without being sloppy.
. Arms, I check each one for any loose movement, slop and especially binds in movement, THROUGHOUT the entire range of motion. This to me means (if arms are off the machine) holding the aluminium parts and "bumping" the arm upwards. It should freely swing right back down with very little to zero resistance felt through the aluminium hub in our fingers. When I mount the arms on the slides I again check for completely free and inhindered movement through the whole range and correct any slight friction spots.
^^but the trick is don't go too far, do introduce slop or movement that it not intended. I actually respect the fact we have to sand these babies to get the optimal fit because I cannot see it being possible any other way considering the DIY nature of our machines and how each person is going to tighten and build slightly differently which in the end will affect how things fit.
- Carriage for hot end. I mount up the hotend, make sure that it is going to be super level with it's mounting carriage becuae if it leans on way or another it is going to affect print quality and cause odd issues on one side of the print, while the other side looks great. Very annoying.
. I also make sure that the arms are free here before I atteach the arms to the slides. It's just easier to do this in your easy chair watching TV then crouched up under the printer like a monkey, LOL.
. make sure the screws holding the two halves of the carriage are snug but not over tightened. (do yourself a favor and print a new one piece carraige when your all dialed in, however this will mean re-sanding and some limited recalibrating) <<<Trust me by this point you'll be getting fairly quick at it and it's not so bad. But I really like the onepiece carriage and it seems to flex less and have fewer issues than the two piece stock unit.
Wiring
-I then triple check all my wiring and make sure it is clear from potential binds and jams and will not hinder our free movement we have worked so hard to achieve. Same thing goes for the extruder tube.
At this point I already have my firmware all set from previous use but I ALWAYS recheck the xyz distances and tweak so that my head will not be crashing into the bed. This nearly always needs a little tweak anytime you change or fiddle with any move component on the printer and that makes sense. Which is why this is a must do step for me. Oh BTW you MUST MUST MUST do this when both the heated bed and your hotend are AT OPERATING TEMPS. <<critical!
PID tune.
- before you can safely get you hotend and bed to operating temp do a quick PID tune for each. hotend is m303 s215 and if using repetier then go into the configure firmware menu and add these values to the settings. Then do the hotbed m303 p1 s80 and again add the PID values to the firmware config.
Perhaps I'll write a step by step EXACT process the next time I go through with it and make a thread for it on its own.
I can't really accurately say how long it has taken me to calibrate my printer. There have been too many factors involved. I spent a good amount of time researching and adjusting magnetic arms only in the end to put that project on hold.
But if I had to guess from a completely new to the 3D printer thing (which I was) I would say that a good solid uninterrupted 6 hours (not including print time) would be needed from the new to 3D printers starting point.
Now if I had to do it again, not including print time I would say I could easily calibrate my printer in less than 1 hour. I infact pretty much do this daily with my messing and fussing and seeing if this improves print when I adjust X or degrades when I adjust X. I re-calibrate every time I remove my hot end or try a different hot end or arm setup. So I really believe that figure is accurate for sure.
My steps to get going from a refresh of any involved component goes something like this.
- Check all parts on machine for snug but not overly tight fit.
. Belts
. Linear slides, xyz, again tight but not too snug. Overly tight is just as bad for print quality as too loose. Too loose will eat belts though. But just right allows for very free movement and fast speeds without being sloppy.
. Arms, I check each one for any loose movement, slop and especially binds in movement, THROUGHOUT the entire range of motion. This to me means (if arms are off the machine) holding the aluminium parts and "bumping" the arm upwards. It should freely swing right back down with very little to zero resistance felt through the aluminium hub in our fingers. When I mount the arms on the slides I again check for completely free and inhindered movement through the whole range and correct any slight friction spots.
^^but the trick is don't go too far, do introduce slop or movement that it not intended. I actually respect the fact we have to sand these babies to get the optimal fit because I cannot see it being possible any other way considering the DIY nature of our machines and how each person is going to tighten and build slightly differently which in the end will affect how things fit.
- Carriage for hot end. I mount up the hotend, make sure that it is going to be super level with it's mounting carriage becuae if it leans on way or another it is going to affect print quality and cause odd issues on one side of the print, while the other side looks great. Very annoying.
. I also make sure that the arms are free here before I atteach the arms to the slides. It's just easier to do this in your easy chair watching TV then crouched up under the printer like a monkey, LOL.
. make sure the screws holding the two halves of the carriage are snug but not over tightened. (do yourself a favor and print a new one piece carraige when your all dialed in, however this will mean re-sanding and some limited recalibrating) <<<Trust me by this point you'll be getting fairly quick at it and it's not so bad. But I really like the onepiece carriage and it seems to flex less and have fewer issues than the two piece stock unit.
Wiring
-I then triple check all my wiring and make sure it is clear from potential binds and jams and will not hinder our free movement we have worked so hard to achieve. Same thing goes for the extruder tube.
At this point I already have my firmware all set from previous use but I ALWAYS recheck the xyz distances and tweak so that my head will not be crashing into the bed. This nearly always needs a little tweak anytime you change or fiddle with any move component on the printer and that makes sense. Which is why this is a must do step for me. Oh BTW you MUST MUST MUST do this when both the heated bed and your hotend are AT OPERATING TEMPS. <<critical!
PID tune.
- before you can safely get you hotend and bed to operating temp do a quick PID tune for each. hotend is m303 s215 and if using repetier then go into the configure firmware menu and add these values to the settings. Then do the hotbed m303 p1 s80 and again add the PID values to the firmware config.
Perhaps I'll write a step by step EXACT process the next time I go through with it and make a thread for it on its own.
"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs
Re: Flateric's Prints and Tests collection
- alienrose
- blacktower
- twisty_red_1o
- twisty_red_1i
"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs
Re: Flateric's Prints and Tests collection
- Fresh off the printer as is, no cleaning of any kind.
- The point it was at when I found it running this morning.
Skin thickness .3, 5 loops, layers .18, extrusion width .35, infill width .35
Approx print speed for infill is 300% of 80mm sec. Perimeters printed at 300% of 45mm sec. Infill was 33.3% rounded.
Prime 5 suck 5 wipe 10, Speed 18, min jump 6, triggger 30.
Total print time was just a hair over 5 hours.
Original object scaled to 1.75 times original scale.
Black seemecnc ABS was at 225 for the duration of the print. Printed onto bed @95c bareglass with hairspray. Added duct tape "redneck" safty hold down just moments before this video shows. Just in case. Proved to be completely un-needed as part was difficult to remove from the bed at print completion. But you can never be too safe and I have had it save me ass in previous prints.
"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs
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Jimustanguitar
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Re: Flateric's Prints and Tests collection
A few of us have had problems getting the PID tuning to work on the hotbed without timing out. There's an inactivity timeout to override as part of this process.Flateric wrote: PID tune.
- before you can safely get you hotend and bed to operating temp do a quick PID tune for each. hotend is m303 s215 and if using repetier then go into the configure firmware menu and add these values to the settings. Then do the hotbed m303 p1 s80 and again add the PID values to the firmware config.
Perhaps I'll write a step by step EXACT process the next time I go through with it and make a thread for it on its own.
Re: Flateric's Prints and Tests collection
Really that kind of sucks doesn't it.
I feel the pain of the 12v people however as I endured it for a day or two last week while I waited for a defective solid state relay to be replaced and arrive. Thankfully I got it all hooked up and running smoothly and I have to say, I really did miss having the 24v@14amp heated bed. It heats nearly as fast as my hotend and never really irritates me with long waits. I wasn't even sure that the heated bed was actually functioning at first with 12v!
I feel the pain of the 12v people however as I endured it for a day or two last week while I waited for a defective solid state relay to be replaced and arrive. Thankfully I got it all hooked up and running smoothly and I have to say, I really did miss having the 24v@14amp heated bed. It heats nearly as fast as my hotend and never really irritates me with long waits. I wasn't even sure that the heated bed was actually functioning at first with 12v!
"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs