Geeetech Rostock 301

[jesse]

Anyone tried this Geeetech Rostock 301 kit? The documentation says it was released on July 7th, 2016.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331913719972

It uses the 3-to-1 diamond nozzle.

[Outsider]

My daughter's husband has one. It is an older dual filament. In the pictures they do not show the power supply. In the old dual unit, it sat on the bench beside the printer. I am building a 6" high base to enclose the power supply. The printer had Marlin on it. I have put Repetier 0.92.9 on it and it works. I am still doing setup and calibration.

[IMBoring25]

No, it doesn't use the Diamond nozzle. It uses a Diamond clone, as should be no surprise at that price point. With clone parts and no duct from the fan to the heat sinks, I'd expect it's a clogger. I would also be flabbergasted if that frame has the requisite rigidity to get good prints at traditional delta speeds. Precision will leave something to be desired with those cheap rod ends.

Maybe intriguing as a cheap toy if you enjoy chasing problems. If you want to reliably make stuff, especially things more dimensionally critical than Yoda heads, I'd look elsewhere.

[Xenocrates]

I know Saber had a geeetech, and had (And continued to, to some extent), problems with his, like scaling issues, and the tool change would just slam carriages into things for some reason. Helping him troubleshoot it, and hearing about it, is the only experience I had with it. But I too would steer away from clones, and flimsy machines like that.

[Qdeathstar]

Honestly,

geechtech is a well known manufacturer of 3D printers. Most people are happy with those printers. They have problems with using cheaper parts so as long as you know you get what you pay for, personally I think this is a great printer to learn from. Don't expect it to print out of the box, but it's a great tool to learn from. I remember when I got my replikeo it took about 6 months to get it fully dialed in and it gave me some great prints....


ultimately though because it used threaded rod instead of a real lead screw, the axels wore themselves out, plus the cheap linear bearings wore out, there was no reliable way to tension the y axis.... and what finally finished off was the warping of the heat bed that led to a peace of abs getting lodged into the hot end fan causing my abs to melt all the way up the Bowden tube.


I decided it wasn't worth fixing and got a Romax instead. Don't be fooled though, no printer is perfect.. the Romax is lacking an easy way to do autocalibration, for instance. So, you have do some minor tweaks to your calibration every 10 prints or so... although someone mentioned that I should just get rid of those sets crews and set my offsets in th software, forgot that...

[jesse]

The controller that the printer uses is a Geeetech GTM32.

http://www.geeetech.com/forum/viewtopic ... 13&t=17173

Geeetech has responded that firmware for it is closed source.

[rmcreations]

I recently acquired a brand new Geeetech Rostock 301 with the diamond head. Yes parts are cheap and they have improved on them slightly from what I have read on forums. I finished building it and calibration is not going so great. Bed is level within .06mm and I setup test scripts for center and all three corners (yes I am new to 3d). I figured this was all that was needed to calibrate and then loaded the "boat" file in repetier and tried a print. Print head is anything but level when printing as I get a slight rollercoaster affect. is this because the bed is concave and I need to adjust the radius? or possibly something else I missed. When I calibrated I used a price of paper doubled up and got everything so that there is a slight tug on the paper at z=0. Confused on this end and leaning a lot as I go.

Also, trying to figure out why I can't get filament thru the hot end... figured this will be a problem to solve after I get calibration done.

[rmcreations]

My next printer will be one of much better quality and easier to use!!

[vesuvius]

Hi rmcreations,

Don't give up, you are almost there. I you have set the center first and then three corners. Then you notice that the center is suddenly higher then before. To correct this you must manually change the Delta Radius. For example 89 set to 90. It will correct the hight in de center. Please try this.

If the filament can get out of the hotend. The problem is dat before de hotend it can not be melt anymore because there is to muts filament in the hole. You must melt it with a tool for example Modifi3d. You have also receive a needle tool. you can use that to push the filament thru the nozzle. But if the is blocked wit cold filament it will have no effect. That is why the Modifi3d is the right tool.
I hope it will solve your troubleshooting?