bbrvvvvv wrote:Like Mhackney said I am sure it could? That is the reason I designed mine that way, I just wanted it clean and out of the way. I thought it might be more of a pain to change out color but it is not a problem. Thats also the reason for mounting the filament feeder where it is so it would be easy to monitor and do change outs. I will make a facia to wrap around it someday. Mr Yoda is looking good so far we are past the chin.
2013-03-28 13.49.09.jpg
what resolution are u printing that at? i see no visible print lines. Edit: nevermind i see it in the post.
I will answer some questions asked by PM here. My printer is a one off of my design. Although the magnetic ball joints do look cool the main reason for having them is precision. The carbon fiber tubes could just as well been a very inexpensive aluminum and work just the same. Good you found it the Mr Yoda is at .05mm LH. ABS. The shiny stuff you see around the base is CA. Using CA allows me to start printing ABS at only 50c. The one bad thing about having a huge platen is the time to heat. I have what I think is a good design for a quick heat platen that is the reason for the big space between the base and platen 1”. When I get it done I will post the info.
Werner
Sure thing Buddy I will do it after I finish printing Mr. Yoda. That is the greatest thing I can pop the whole end effector hot end off in about 5 sec. I can work on it in comfort at my bench or change colors? I will do a video this weekend to show you how it all works.
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Last edited by bbrvvvvv on Thu Mar 28, 2013 8:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Werner, your shop-made magnetic ball joints got me to thinking and doing some research. The commercial units I linked to, it turns out, have a different construction. I assumed the ball was magnetic with them but it isn't. The magnet is in one joint. The ball is steel and is drilled for a threaded rod. This threaded rod is used to attach the ball to one part of the joint mechanism. Seems like a nice way to do it and because these printers don't need to deal with high force, I think a Delrin magnet holder with the ballmilled recess for the bearing would provide a low friction sliding surface. I've sourced some N52 cylinder magnets (very strong!) and steel balls to give it a try.
Thanks for the great information.
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
That great Michael! I had designed a much simpler end effector plate that has dimples in the locations the balls need to be JB welded. It is even lighter and less parts. Here is a YouTube link showing the making of a 100 micron Yoda:
http://youtu.be/KUIbMnqFstk I will post many more videos when I get time.
Like everyone else. I got smoke coming out of my ears trying to think of a way to retrofit my Max to magnetic ball joints. lol What's the fastest you've printed with those joints?
Also you got a source for that fancy extruder gearbox? I really like that vs my steves extruder.
Nevermind with this one. I found the answer here, http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=145 thanks.
Thanks Buddy! My machine will run no problem at 500% in speed really flying and hold amazing registration at speeds in the 200s the problem is in the plastic. Now I am very new and learning a lot from every print but it seems to me the plastic has a happy place and you can push any and all the parameters but it will always be at a sacrifice of print quality. All the printing you see in my videos so far have been 30 for everything but 40 perimeter 20 infill 150 or 200 rapids.
Sorry Buddy for taking so long to get back to you! I am using Marlin.
You have a great Blog Buddy! I really enjoyed it! Keep up all the great projects! I especially liked your Yoda of which I am quite fond.
Hey Xnaron, That look awesome Buddy!! Gone will be the days of sanding to fit. Great job! I have a feeling a lot of people will want to get ahold of your STL's when you get it worked out!
Werner
BerryBot3D
