JT's H-1 build log and mods

[JTCUSTOMS]

Here are some more pics of the printer, hot end, and electronics enclosure

overall shot

MK138 housing

and where they will mount

[Chris Muncy]

JT,

In regards to your stl files, the Z axis are OK, one of the Y is ok, but the X and one of the Y has manifold issues when sliced in slic3r.

[JTCUSTOMS]

Not sure what that means?
How do I fix that?

[JTCUSTOMS]

Here are some pics of the hot end wiring and the stepper plugs

[JTCUSTOMS]

And some pics of the quick and dirty electronics enclosure.

Here is a pic of the belt adjuster
works pretty good.

[Chris Muncy]

OK JT I just ordered my rod and bearings so once my PEEK tubing comes in I'll be ready.

[timothysvec]

There is almost no h-1 left! LoL

[JTCUSTOMS]

There is almost no h-1 left! LoL

Maybe we should call it H2 instead!!

[JTCUSTOMS]

OK JT I just ordered my rod and bearings so once my PEEK tubing comes in I'll be ready.

Cool! are you going to print those .stl's?
I am curious as to how they turn out. I got a nice package from Protoparadigm today, too tired after 12hrs working to do anything with it though
Got my heated bed and insulation but the borosilicate glass is not here yet, so I wont be doing anything on it till the weekend anyway...bummer

[Chris Muncy]

JT,

Do you have the original files you created before you exported to stl? If so, could you post them? The X axis was still having the manifold issue that I believe can only be fixed by looking at the original.

[JTCUSTOMS]

Yes I do, what file format do you need?

[ALeander]

JT,

I also would be interested in the original files as I would like to change them a bit to suit my build as well as outputting them in mm instead of inches.

Great work,
Anthony

[Chris Muncy]

What did you create them in? I have both autocad and autodesk 123d as well as OPENSCAD.

[JTCUSTOMS]

I use Viacad, but I can upload a dxf if that would help.

[Chris Muncy]

Give it a shot and let's see what we can do with them.

[JTCUSTOMS]

Better yet! here is a repaired .stl for the X bearing block

Xbearingblock3D.stl

(184.39 KiB) Downloaded 512 times

[JTCUSTOMS]

JT,

I also would be interested in the original files as I would like to change them a bit to suit my build as well as outputting them in mm instead of inches.

Great work,
Anthony

I will load up the .dxf's tomorrow evening, have to get up at 4:30am going to sleep now

[JTCUSTOMS]

Sorry I haven't been able to get those files, this week has been CRAZY.
But I will try to get them done this weekend as my laptop took a dump!

Broke out my backup and need to put my cad software on it.

But here are some pics of the start of the MK1 heat bed mod and sprung table.
Got some insulation and tempered glass cut for the top, wish the glass was a little bigger, but oh well.

Here is the AL plate notched out for the thermistor and power connections

Here is the heat bed and insulation I cut out.

Here it is with the adjuster bolts and insulation and heatbed bolted together, have to trim out the insulation and trim the outside bolts

Here is the spring setup, I will release them a bit. But the whole shebang is only .475 thick with them released a bit.
I used 6/32x1 countersunk screws and the heads are epoxied into the AL plate.
The height is not an issue as I gained travel by changing out the bent all threads, still more than stock H1

Hers is the bottom all bolted together, will probably print up some thumbwheel adjusters as a first project.

[mhackney]

I'll be curious to see how your original H-1 table fares. Even with insulation and 1/8" standoffs on my hot bed, the table got hot enough to warp and distort. I am mounting the hot bed directly to the bearing blocks with insulated standoffs. The problem with the table warping was that those 2 posts where the Y timing belt attach actually bent about 30°, causing the Y axis to slowly move. It looked like backlash but turned out to be the bed simply moving.

Have you had any luck printing on glass? I can print on aluminum, Kaptan, blue tape but not glass! Even with acetone cleaning and heated to 200°F my ABS just doesn't want to stick to it.

regards,
Michael

[JTCUSTOMS]

I haven't had any luck printing anything.....because I haven't printed anything yet
But I have, and plan to use Kapton or polyamide tape on the glass, the glass was just for the flat surface coupled with the adjustable bed for fine tuning.
As far as the bed, well I have read of the issues you are having, I am hoping for the best but if it does warp I will cut one out of Al or glass on the waterjet at work.
What were you using for insulation, I was looking through your thread but couldn't find it, was it just the loom over your custom heat bed?

[mhackney]

You schmuck! You have a waterjet at work! I love waterjets. Most of the flat parts in my reel kits are cut by waterjet:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v4/p735281759-3.jpg[/img]

I looked seriously at making a desktop version but the high pressure system is expensive.

So, my hot bed layers from the bottom up:

1. H-1 table
2. four 1/8" aluminum standoffs attaching the hot bed to the H-1 table, one in each corner
3. 1/8" phenolic board
4. reflective aluminum foil gled to the phenolic board
5. a layer of woven fiberglass cloth
6. the nichrome wire in a fiberglass sleeve attached to the aluminum top plate (see next) with Kaptan tape)
7. aluminum top plate

There are 1/8" aluminum standoffs between the phenolic board and aluminum top plate. One at each corner that the mounting screws pass through and then I siliconed a few additional standoffs in place to provide a little rigidity.

That's my phase 1 prototype. The new hot bed I'm building replaces the fiberglass sleeve on the nichrome with a PFTE sleeve. It is much thinner profile which will allow me to insert a sheet of actual insulation.

cheers,
Michael

[JTCUSTOMS]

Wow, how thick is that? I am using some glass filled paper insulation, a couple layers. The AL. plate sits about .25 off the original bed, I might tape another layer or two under the AL. plate aove the stock table.

Happy Easter Everyone!!

[mhackney]

Happy Easter to you too!

What are you asking about "how thick is that?" The overall hot bed is .4" thick overall. But it is mounted on 1/8" standoffs that takes off another .125". When I remove the original table, I'll recover that.

I was looking at the glass filled paper. Did you get that at McMaster? I am thinking about using this: Wet-and-Stick Fiberglass Fabric. That way, it would conform to the nichrome and help hold it in place against the aluminum top plate and complete fill the 1/8" space with insulation. I wish they would publish the R values for these insulations.

cheers,
Michael

[JTCUSTOMS]

Yeah sorry I meant overall thickness, thanks.
Ditto on the R values. It is a pretty significant spec.

[JTCUSTOMS]

That insulation looks very interesting.