First 3D Printer Build
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Do you know any type of store that may carry these locally?
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Thanks. Depressing, yes. But others will learn from this! There would have to be some significant stresses to cause the belt to fail like that in such a short time. How did you tighten the belts? You might also carefully check the pulley on that axis, it might reveal a defect, burr or something.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Unless you have a local supplier these are probably best ordered.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: First 3D Printer Build
mhackney wrote:Thanks. Depressing, yes. But others will learn from this! There would have to be some significant stresses to cause the belt to fail like that in such a short time. How did you tighten the belts? You might also carefully check the pulley on that axis, it might reveal a defect, burr or something.
I did not think I did anything special to tighten the belts. I pulled the belts through, pulled the clips tight, and then adjusted the top bearings to ensure I have the belts tightened to the abstract undefined ambiguous tension

Belt Droppings
I'm pretty sure the little black spots are droppings from my belt wasting away. I found this in all 3 bays so that means I might as well order enough belt for all 3. My guess is that this is from the pulleys. The belt failed at the pulley when my extruder is near zero.
I'm interested to know if you guys have similar droppings. This may be a good check to see if you are running the belts too tight.
I'm interested to know if you guys have similar droppings. This may be a good check to see if you are running the belts too tight.
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: First 3D Printer Build
You have been running a long time with no belt failures. Could you describe how you tightened YOUR belts?mhackney wrote:Thanks. Depressing, yes. But others will learn from this! There would have to be some significant stresses to cause the belt to fail like that in such a short time. How did you tighten the belts? You might also carefully check the pulley on that axis, it might reveal a defect, burr or something.
Carl
Re: First 3D Printer Build
I've already posted somewhere here with references. I'm at RPI for a college visit with my son so I can't search myself. The references are on the SPDI site though.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Found what you posted previously, thank you and have a good day with your son.mhackney wrote:I've already posted somewhere here with references. I'm at RPI for a college visit with my son so I can't search myself. The references are on the SPDI site though.
Trick Laser Delta Arms
So, I just received my trick laser delta arms. I am hoping these arms will improve the quality of my prints, or at the very least help me nail down some trouble shooting issues. I ordered these just before the weekend. Brian at Trick Laser ended up shipping these over night after some production delays to ensure I received them in a timely manner. The arms arrived nicely packed and in good condition. Here are some additional pictures of the arms.
One of the screw falls under it's own weight. This is the joint with slightly additional play. I do not think it will cause an issue. The amount of play in less than my stock delta arms.
The arms seem to be well made, all the arms but one have no noticeable play and rotate very smoothly. There is only one joint that has very very little play. In the picture below one is not like the other....One of the screw falls under it's own weight. This is the joint with slightly additional play. I do not think it will cause an issue. The amount of play in less than my stock delta arms.
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Not that it matters too much but these new assemble will be lighter also.
It looks like these arms are the same length. The quick double check seems ok.
Last edited by aerouta on Fri Apr 26, 2013 11:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: First 3D Printer Build
To install new arms you have to split the two platform halves. Is not too bad depending on what you have added, such as fans, LED, and wires. I was able to leave everything relatively intact.
Track Laser also includes new U-joint screws. Remember the screws that sometimes prevented endstop screws from being tightened? While those have been replaced with shorter screws with a larger head.
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Quick up date, The arms from Trick Laser appear to be rock solid. The end result for me was a hot end with no backlash and reduced the hysteresis I was experiencing during bed leveling. I have not had time to print a "show piece" yet because I have a lot parts that I need now/yesterday and I can actually print them! I will post some pictures soon.
Re: First 3D Printer Build
HEre is the cube moments after the print.
Best cube I have ever printed. This was printed at 0.2. I though about going for 0.1 but I have not fully calibrated at that layer height and I would like to switch out my 0.5 nozzle for that. Infills are getting much better. This was done with KISS.
Best cube I have ever printed. This was printed at 0.2. I though about going for 0.1 but I have not fully calibrated at that layer height and I would like to switch out my 0.5 nozzle for that. Infills are getting much better. This was done with KISS.
Last edited by aerouta on Thu Apr 25, 2013 5:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Jimustanguitar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 2608
- Joined: Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:35 am
- Location: Notre Dame area
- Contact:
Re: Trick Laser Delta Arms
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blog/2 ... all-links/aerouta wrote:There is only one joint that has very very little play.
"You can size the link by carefully squeezing the link while it’s on the ball. Do not use excessive force or you can break the link."
Very nice looking cube, BTW.
Re: Trick Laser Delta Arms
Jimustanguitar wrote:http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blog/2 ... all-links/aerouta wrote:There is only one joint that has very very little play.
"You can size the link by carefully squeezing the link while it’s on the ball. Do not use excessive force or you can break the link."
Very nice looking cube, BTW.
thanks!!, I may give that a try. Right now the play is so small that I don't think it will be an issue. But I will keep an eye on it.
Re: First 3D Printer Build
another print, getting better.
Don't ask about the brown (burn) stain... roookie mistake!!
Don't ask about the brown (burn) stain... roookie mistake!!
Re: First 3D Printer Build
the only thing i didn't like about the arms was the hardware they chose to use, mine actually didn't seem like they were centered when placed on there respective mounting locations. There is slight bit of play in them unlike my Chinese made counterpart but the arms seem to be a great upgrade replacement, they are super light weight. I have this going into my second rostock build.
pictures shown with replaced mounting hardware.
pictures shown with replaced mounting hardware.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: First 3D Printer Build
Yeah, the hardware is different. MY screws appear to be rapped in some type of foil or something. I noticed it during installation so I just tried to be careful with it. That is strange that yours have some play, most of mine were solid.
either way, I have notice an improvement in my prints. Part of the benefit of these arms is that I stopped questioning the condition of the joints. This allowed me to start dailing in other aspects of the printer and slicer software.
either way, I have notice an improvement in my prints. Part of the benefit of these arms is that I stopped questioning the condition of the joints. This allowed me to start dailing in other aspects of the printer and slicer software.
Last edited by aerouta on Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: First 3D Printer Build
they designed it so it would be snug fit when you tighten down the rostock platform screws, similiar to the original seemecnc design. that's why they have that foil wrap around it.
I wasn't diggin it though, so I replaced it with what I have pictured above.
I wasn't diggin it though, so I replaced it with what I have pictured above.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: First 3D Printer Build
So I started using fans which greatly improved the ability to print overhangs with ABS. However, the inclusions of fans introduced heating issues. My heat bed, even with an upgraded 12v power supply, had issue heating above 85c and maintaining temp with fans. I would like to try to heat the bed up to ~100c on some prints so I picked up on of these.
Will it be acceptable to hook up the 24v leads directly to the heatbed power inputs on rambo?
Re: First 3D Printer Build
rambo is only has a 15amp fuse, the onyx will surge 18amps of current, on initial power up with a 24v power supply. most likely you will blow the 15amp fuse.
how much current does your power supply output?
You might get away with upgrading to a 20amp. Because the 18 amp surge is only for a few seconds. As the temperature of the onyx increases the current drops till you reach your set temperature.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =170#p7960
how much current does your power supply output?
You might get away with upgrading to a 20amp. Because the 18 amp surge is only for a few seconds. As the temperature of the onyx increases the current drops till you reach your set temperature.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =170#p7960
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: First 3D Printer Build
cambo3d wrote:rambo is only has a 15amp fuse, the onyx will surge 18amps of current, on initial power up with a 24v power supply. most likely you will blow the 15amp fuse.
how much current does your power supply output?
You might get away with upgrading to a 20amp. Because the 18 amp surge is only for a few seconds. As the temperature of the onyx increases the current drops till you reach your set temperature.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... =170#p7960
it is a 15amp power supply.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QS ... UTF8&psc=1
Re: First 3D Printer Build
in that case, you can dial down the voltage on your power supply so the onyx doesn't try to draw to much current from your power supply. That will help some.
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: First 3D Printer Build
How would I turn down the voltage?
- foshon
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 600
- Joined: Fri Mar 08, 2013 3:05 pm
- Location: Just to the right of SeeMeCNC
Re: First 3D Printer Build
In the red circle.aerouta wrote:How would I turn down the voltage?
[img]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7439/8723827417_bcf9b2a07d_n.jpg[/img]
Screenshot from 2013-05-09 20:08:06 by foshon, on Flickr
Purple = sarcasm
Please do a board search before posting your question, many have been answered with very time consuming detail already.
Please do a board search before posting your question, many have been answered with very time consuming detail already.