Extrusion problems with your HE280 equipped printer? READ ME!

[geneb]

I've been told by SeeMeCNC that they're seeing a 100% success rate with this solution.

https://seemecnc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/a ... lament-JAM

g.

[mark.gesing]

Thank you for this, this has been driving me nuts. They should really include that took, and those instructions with the kit

[mark.gesing]

Using this method, I have hopefully solved the seating issue with my bowden tube. Is there a way to tell that the problem is solved without taking it back off?

That is, what are the symptoms that point at an improperly seated bowden tube?

Thanks.

[geneb]

You'll see poor flow rates or the EZR will start skipping or chewing on filament.

g.

[PannDemic]

What if you are using the Jet-insert? I see some bulbing at the end of my filament when I pull it out. I am thinking I don't have enough cooling in the cold end side. Anyone with the Jet-insert haveing heat creep issues?

[Slaintemaith]

Are you kidding me? We bought three hot ends and it's YOUR design that's at fault?
I cannot explain just how much I detest your company.

[geneb]

Um, what?

g.

[jasonbsimpson]

Yep. Definitely NOT a 100% success rate. I've done this multiple times in a row to no avail. Finally had to take it apart, jam some tweezers down in the heatsink to get it to come loose, and pull it out. It then worked for about an hour and a half before it quit in the middle of a build.

Lovely.

[geneb]

You might want to contact support about it then.

g.

[AlanKilian]

I'm interested in calibrating the E-Steps for my extruder and I'm having some problems.

Machine: Rostock Max V3 / RamBo
Firmware revision: 0.92.2
Firmware date: 20170201
Filament: Hatchbox PLA White
Controls: Octoprint

When I set the hot-end to 220C and extrude 100mm of filament using the "Controls" panel on Octoprint, I get less than 100mm extruded.
When I disconnect the upper end of the bowden tube and cut the filament, I get real-real close to 100mm extruded.
Video: First extruding through nozzle, then extruding into air.
https://youtu.be/U2eGTHwOQAo

I chose 220C to run really hot and try and really reduce the pressure required to extrude. I thought that would help, but it does not seem to.

I have done the HE280 loosen two turns, push, tighten two turns several times.
After this extrusion, I heated to 130C and pulled the bowden tube out and I still have a little puck.
It measures 0.7mm thick. Is that too much of a puck?
https://goo.gl/photos/t9NHy5MENnFveCiS6

When printing, I'm hearing the stepper motor go "Clunk".

I've tried going all the way to 220C and I still get the clunk once in a while.

I've used a thermocouple to test the hot-end right at the nozzle-to-hot end threads, and I'm getting 220C.
(Or 215C or 200C, whatever I set it to)

I'm printing at 20mm/second and 0.3mm layer height.

The stepper motor doesn't really get warm which is unusual in my stepper motor experience.
Do I need to increase the extruder stepper motor current in the firmware?

And ideas on what I can try?

[jponitz]

In case anyone has tried the solution at the top of the thread several times without success, I got the advice below from the awesome support desk, and it worked:

"I do feel that this reduced extrusion rate is being caused by the PTFE tube not being seated in the hot end all the way. It may feel like it is getting seated, but what I believe is happening is that there is filament melted and creating a blockage at the location indicated in the image below:

​
So, the key is going to be to get that filament out. One option is a cold pull:

Heat the hot end to 215. Take a piece of scrap filament and manually push it through the bowden tube / hot end. You should be able to get the filament to pass through and extrude out the nozzle some. If not, there is an obstruction in your hot end. Leave the filament in the hot end, turn the heat off and let the hot end cool. When the temperature reaches 100C pull the PTFE out of the hot end, but leave the filament in the hot end. When the temperature reaches 88C pull the filament straight out of the hot end. This will hopefully pull any blockage out of the hot end.

You may need to repeat this process.

When the blockage is removed, you will need to re-seat the PTFE again in the hot end using the method described in the manual."

[lmorgan3d]

EZR Skipping. Rostock Max V2 with HE280 upgrade, arms, etc. Printing abs, of which I have to print much slower than the old hot end.
Doesn't skip running Speed 65% and Flow 65 % with Infill speed 45 (was 65), Inside perimeter 45(was 65), Infill overlap 0.25 (was 0.15).
Did the re-seat of the bowden tube, no luck here. Found no blockage.
Have read about increasing extruder stepper motor current, but have not found an easy method thru front panel or Matter control to change this parameter.
3D printer seems to be printing well, just trying to get my speed back.

[geneb]

The firmware needs to be tweaked in order to increase the extruder drive current. That cannot be done via MC or the front panel.

g.

[lmorgan3d]

If the firmware is reloaded with the motor current change, correct me if I am wrong, but won't this require a new calibration?
Is the value of 200 good?

[geneb]

200 is kind of high. What do you have it currently set at? If I recall correctly, I think I've got it set at around 160-180 for the machine I had the problem with. (I fought with that stupid machine off an on for a year before it dawned on me that I'd forgotten to bump the extruder current when I did the HE280 update...)

Note that the firmware upload shouldn't mess with your EEPROM settings.

g.

[lmorgan3d]

I'll get back to it on Saturday. Setting should be the stock 130. I will give 180 a try. Thanks for the note on firmware upload should not mess with the EEPROM settings and the current calibration.
Thanks for the help.. L.

[lmorgan3d]

Got back to it with interesting results. It did not skip, but hogged out the filament in spots along the filament. Is there recommended speeds, perimeter, infill, ect... for the HE280? The original hot end seemed to handle ABS just fine with Mater Control default settings. Seems like I have to manually override Feed and Speed on the printer console to 65% to make it happy.

[geneb]

You might try bumping up the temperature a bit.

g.

[tb750]

So, would the current setting affect the temperature? I upgraded to the H280 hot end and my extruder seems to decrease the temperature by 5 degrees (regardless of what I set it at). So, if I set the temp to 225 (for ABS) the hot end will settle at 220. If I set it to 220 the hot end drops and stays around 215 and so on.

[Xenocrates]

That's a PID issue. I believe it's that the I term is incorrect, leaving an offset in the final temperature (It's either I or D. I just deal with PID so infrequently that I forget which one in specific it is)

[tb750]

So, would the current setting affect the temperature? I upgraded to the H280 hot end and my extruder seems to decrease the temperature by 5 degrees (regardless of what I set it at). So, if I set the temp to 225 (for ABS) the hot end will settle at 220. If I set it to 220 the hot end drops and stays around 215 and so on.

I had this problem and it ended up being a $5 fix. The fuse on your extruder may be going bad. They bypassed the fuse in later variations with a high temp wire (support says the need for a fuse was removed because it's all software controlled now. ). I removed the fuse, installed the new wire and my temp is sitting at a steady temperature.

[jjenco]

Okay. So i have a Rostock Delta v2 with the upgraded HE280 head and fans. The printer worked fine after I upgraded to the new head about 2 years ago.

I haven't printed anything in the past six months. Machine has been covered continuously and stationary in my workshop. Today i designed a small part in Solidworks, saved it as a *.STL file, and opened that in MatterControl to export as a *g-code file. Saved this file to a SD card. Inserted the SD card in the printer, warmed up the nozzle and plate for ABS (220/80F). Manually advanced the ABS filament to fill the nozzle and push out about 2-3cm of filament. Used the printers onboard selector control to find the g-code file on the SD card, selected it, and the printer 'homed', dropped to the plate and then start to print. You could tell the print head was moving in a manner that would have printed the part but no filament was extruding onto the plate. Any ideas?

Thanks

John

[geneb]

Sounds to me like you might have a loose connection to the extruder motor. Have you tried using MC to feed filament via USB?

g.

[jjenco]

Sounds to me like you might have a loose connection to the extruder motor. Have you tried using MC to feed filament via USB?

g.

It works from the computer. A mystery of the deep, i guess. Thx.

[geneb]

If you can command extrusion via USB, something is weird with your slicer settings.

g.