Rostock Fan Shroud # 74789

[JohnStack]

First try: Stock settings.
Second try: Loads of changes...

Temps: 238/60
Layer Height: .25
Permiters: 3
Density: .9
Fill: Concentric
Top Bottom: Rect.
Infill every layer
Only retract when crossing.

And then Speed:
30, 30, 60%, 60, 60, 50, 50, 50, 20

First layer speed: 30%.

Skirts: 1m, 6mm (probably should have changed this)
Brim width: 1mm

Support Material: I swear I had it selected since it printed some of it...Maybe I'll do it on the next print.

My thoughts are that I'll use the better of the two and see if I can't print out a better one.

If you have suggestions, I'm really happy to have them! Love this stuff!

Can you imagine a time when the software figures it all out based on temperature and humidity?

[foshon]

I think I would turn support on, or rotate it so the fan flange is one the base.

[Flateric]

Damnit I wrote a big long reply to this thread and it got lost somehow.

I suspect you are too high on your temp for the particular filament. If you look you can even see some burned borwn bits in the lower fan middle of the opening area.

I also suspect too much filament.

This would cause your support to topple early in the print which would doom all subsequent layers. Support structure is generally single wall thickness. So if it is too hot it will not stay on top of the last layer deposited and begin to droop. and then too much filament on top of this will cause the filament to be pushed down over the side of the last. A combo of the two would be disasterous. It would then make all further extrusions to appear as spegettii as you appear to have also.

Not a for sure, but this would be my first guess.

Is this PLA or ABS? Seems to me that the bed temp is way to low for ABS and the hotend temp is way too high for PLA.

[JohnStack]

ABS. I'll try lowering the head temp anyway and reduce the output. I'm still getting spaghetti on the portion that is printing over air.

[Flateric]

I feel that a bed temp of 60 is way too low for good stick for the duration of the print. Your first layer height should be much higher atleast. I would print a first layer temp at atleast 80, possibly even 90-95.

You never answered if you are printing directly to the onyx?

[foshon]

ABS. I'll try lowering the head temp anyway and reduce the output. I'm still getting spaghetti on the portion that is printing over air.

Did you read the instructions on the thing? The designer erven says it shoudl be rotated.

[JohnStack]

Sorry about that - using Glass with Juice.

Missed that but printed this using Cura this afternoon.

Came out quite a bit cleaner with support and a raft at 225/60. Couldn't get the head slowed down though - even though I changed the setting.

The one on the left was my first - without supports using Repetier (loads of different settings trials) and the right with the settings above.

Now I've got something that will let me print a very clean version (even on its side! LOL)

[Flateric]

Can you run repetier firmware with Cura? Or does it have to be Marlin?

[johnoly99]

You can run repetier firmware with cura. The only thing you need to change is in cura, for some reason, it usually outputs an M92 Exxx.xxx in the starting gcode. You can actually go into your replace.csv tab in cura's advanced settings, and type:

M92, ;

That will cause it to put a comment code in front of the M92, which is the M code to set steps per mm