Flateric wrote:Hotend was e3d with bored and polished barrel, no fan at all or cooling fan for part. Dead air with head moving through it for only cooling.
How did you bore and polish the barrel of your E3d hotend?
You run a softer wooden dowel through it first coated with mothers aluminium and metal polish. Then you chase that with a long thin piece of leather with same coating. The a clean bit of leather till it gleams inside.
After all the standard drilling and boring on the lathe first of course.
"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs
Well, the magnets can hold substantial weight without any I'll effects, How do I know.....
Pics are without the fan mounted on the E3d hotend which would have covered everything up. But the fan will poin straight across and blow past the Jhead hotend as well, Cooling both nicely!
"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs
Flateric wrote:Well, the magnets can hold substantial weight without any I'll effects, How do I know.....
Pics are without the fan mounted on the E3d hotend which would have covered everything up. But the fan will poin straight across and blow past the Jhead hotend as well, Cooling both nicely!
dualhotend.jpg
photo (23).JPG
photo (22).JPG
What is that orange tubing over the arrow bolts? I see you have the heat shrink over the orange tube that is over the bolt.
"You run a softer wooden dowel through it first coated with mothers aluminium and metal polish. Then you chase that with a long thin piece of leather with same coating. The a clean bit of leather till it gleams inside.
After all the standard drilling and boring on the lathe first of course."
I have the E3D and I wonder if I need to do all of this to the hotend. It won't work properly straight from the box?
I mean drilling then buffing and polishing, why did they release a hotend that needs all of that. Some of us do not
have a lathe. I'm truly disappointed if all of what you did has to be done.
Plenty of people seem to be using them as is, I'd say the bulk of the response is positive, I had issues with mine, but they're shipping me a replacement.
I did this because I originally had mounted mine up in my lathe to drill and tape for the PTF connector. When I did I careelessly damaged my stainless thermal break beyond repair and had to make a new one from scratch. After doing so I noted that the piece I made seemed to leave an ever so slight lip inside between the stainless and the aluminium where they met. Knowing that my lathe is dead on centered, then reverifying it to be I tried loading my original stainless back in to check out of curiousity. Only to find the ever so slight lip had become worse.
I then loaded mine in and went on my merry way.
After reading about poly's troubles and hearing others having some small issues while yet others had none I speculated that the e3d process did not included a quick re-drill/bore AFTER assembly to ensure everything was lined up ship shape.
After my friend got one and had never used it yet, I did the same inspection only to discover that it too had the small lip at the join between coldside and stainless. No doubt this would have cause very similar issues that some people have had. So we did the same procedure to his, bore, polish and he has not had one problem either.
I'm the kinda guy who will often take apart his brand new gizmo before even using it one time, just tto check it out, verify everything is ship shape and reassemble before first use. I can not count how often this has revealed future or even immediate potential problems. I boil it down to mass market manufacturing and quality testing is not what it used to be in order to help save a few bucks in the competitive market of today.
The old saying "You get what you pay for!" is no longer totally always true. You pay for it and still not get what you pay for. But you will not go wrong double checking the work your paying for. Unless you screw the thing up of course, LOL.
"Now you see why evil will always triumph! Because good is dumb." - Spaceballs
xnaron wrote:I'm trying to gauge how many people would be interested in this kit so I can size the first batch appropriately. Let me know via PM if you want on the list.
thanks,
Brendin
I PM'd you about wanting the kit but I was wondering?
Can my kit come with blue feathers?
"You run a softer wooden dowel through it first coated with mothers aluminium and metal polish. Then you chase that with a long thin piece of leather with same coating. The a clean bit of leather till it gleams inside.
After all the standard drilling and boring on the lathe first of course."
I have the E3D and I wonder if I need to do all of this to the hotend. It won't work properly straight from the box?
I mean drilling then buffing and polishing, why did they release a hotend that needs all of that. Some of us do not
have a lathe. I'm truly disappointed if all of what you did has to be done.
No sir, I have the exact same Hot end. Just make sure you attach and connect fan to the fan port on the Rambo and have it run 100% all the time. You will encounter problems if you don't. From my personal experience. Here is a pic of my set up...
I added an extra fan for looks, it's not connected. I plan on using that extra fan in case I print PLA. Here is the file of the type adapter I used made by Richrap...
Flateric wrote:Hotend was e3d with bored and polished barrel, no fan at all or cooling fan for part. Dead air with head moving through it for only cooling.
How did you bore and polish the barrel of your E3d hotend?
You run a softer wooden dowel through it first coated with mothers aluminium and metal polish. Then you chase that with a long thin piece of leather with same coating. The a clean bit of leather till it gleams inside.
After all the standard drilling and boring on the lathe first of course.
Thanks for the explanation. I had read somewhere someone suggesting that the stainless thermal breaks work best when the bore is polished to a mirror finish and was curious how you did it. Mines gotten plugged a couple of times, once due to the fan not being on and once I think related to the z height not being correct when printing the first layer. The cold end does get pretty hot if you leave the fan shroud on and don't turn on the fan. Other than that its been awesome. I believe that the short melt zone of this hot end makes for very consistent retractions, so you can dial it in perfectly, even with the Bowden setup.
Flateric wrote:I agree completely, The short melt zone is key.
I've already made a second one and it seems to be great.
So I guess their design is really solid. Just unfortunately some of the singles are not up to standards. Very few BTW.
Don't let that stop you from getting one of these hotends guys. It is the best I have used easily, well worth it in every way.
I could be wrong but I heard they currently sit at a 6 weeks waiting list however. This is only a rumour however.
I ordered two of these ed3 hotends, couple weeks ago. there website says 3 week preorder, which was changed to 2 weeks couple days ago. so i hope this 6 week rumor is just a rumor.
The weekend is nearly over, what is the status of the magnetic joint project?
Have you decided to do kits only, release of the printable files or what?
I am not trying to rush anyone, just trying to get an update on what has been decided.
We're all anticipating those files. I've already ordered the magnets. The guy was wondering why so many people have been wanting to buy 12 of them; I gave him a link to this thread so he'd know what was going on, and suggested he might want to save himself some trouble by offering them in packs of 12.
I may still be interested in the kit, or I may want to put it together myself. Depends on the details. I'd be most interested in aluminum mounts on the carriages and/or an aluminum platform (less flex than ABS).
Eaglezsoar wrote:The weekend is nearly over, what is the status of the magnetic joint project?
Have you decided to do kits only, release of the printable files or what?
I am not trying to rush anyone, just trying to get an update on what has been decided.
The suspense is overwhelming. I'm also anticipating the release of these files, whether I have to pay for them or not, It's worth it. But tell us something, Please.
xnaron wrote:Files are up here for the anxious. Write up will come later. We are in the process of buy a new place and a lot of stuff came up this weekend.
I have the files. I am willing to pay you for a fully assembled already complete kit. I can accomplish building it with the files you sent me, but I feel it's such a good upgrade that I want to pay you for your effort. If you ever have an assembled version, ready to just install, I will pay for it. I can send you cash in the mail of possible, and or check.
xnaron wrote:Files are up here for the anxious. Write up will come later. We are in the process of buying a new place and a lot of stuff came up this weekend.
xnaron wrote:Files are up here for the anxious. Write up will come later. We are in the process of buying a new place and a lot of stuff came up this weekend.
Can the effector handle the heat being made out of ABS Black?
well it depends where you mount the hot end... mine has a bottom shield made of wood that is also a fan mount. I think it would be fine without the wood shield. My jhead is mounted about 20mm below the effector and heat won't be an issue. If you try and stick the seemecnc hotend in the middle using the standoffs I think it would be a problem. If you bolt the seemecnc hot end to the effector without the standoffs I think it would be just fine.
