EZStruder top mount brackets

[bvandiepenbos]

Neat. I'll have to cut a new base plate for the spool mount (I'm assuming you just widened the plate that the spool uprights fit into?) when I get a chance.

I still haven't had the time to sit down and design a bracket that would hold an arrow shaft or a tube to act as a wire guide for the stepper motor.

g.

Gene,
you should download the file I just posted here today to cut. There are a few tweaks to make it even EZier in addition to making it wider as you suggested.
thanks
~*Brian

[geneb]

I'll have to do that. I hope to be able to swing by the local BORG and find some white melamine that I can paint - I don't want to use the black scraps I have.

I wish my machine was large enough to cut the base parts - it's only 24x12 unfortunately.

g.

[vandmaker]

However, I do like BrianV's design for our new EZStruder and his spool mount. They are industrial looking, heavy duty, and well designed. Like everything BrianV does over at tricklaser.com, you will find his work detailed and perfect.

My favorite upgrade Brian offers for the Rostock MAX are the carbon fiber arm kits.

Just to clear things up the EZStruder mount kit was designed by myself for http://www.tricklaser.com

Eric VanDiepenbos

[PartDaddy]

Good Job Eric... Now Get Started On The tricklaser Hot End Groove Mount For The Platform...

[Eaglezsoar]

However, I do like BrianV's design for our new EZStruder and his spool mount. They are industrial looking, heavy duty, and well designed. Like everything BrianV does over at tricklaser.com, you will find his work detailed and perfect.

My favorite upgrade Brian offers for the Rostock MAX are the carbon fiber arm kits.

Just to clear things up the EZStruder mount kit was designed by myself for http://www.tricklaser.com

Eric VanDiepenbos

A very good design it is! I have purchased two of the EZMount kits, I wanted one on each of my Rostock Max
Once I saw the design, I was hooked.

[Eaglezsoar]

When using the top mounted spool and the EZStruder the side mounting parts would be gone. Does anyone have a good idea how to route the wires coming from the base and going to the Hot End?
Most of the side mounted designs used the Bowden tube to support the Hot End wires, obviously that won't work with the top mounted parts. Just looking for some good ideas on how to support the
wires.

[dbarrans]

I found that I kept having to separate the wiring from the Bowden tube to clear a hot end jam or to change filament, so I started just leaving them separate. The 4-conductor cable seems to be stiff enough to stay where it needs to be, as long as it's supported around 10" above the base.

I plan to use a PVC pipe where the side mount was, and I'll use that to give me a tiedown spot for the hot end wiring.

- dan

[jetpad]

Today I tore apart my printer and have been routing things up to the top. I started routing the wires through the extrusion channels that didn't already have the end stop wires in them but nothing was really working for me and I was dreading when I'd have to do something to one of the wires. I decided I'll just run a separate flex tube down the outside of the printer. I was going to print some sort of bracket to hold the top and bottom of it to the sides of the printer but instead I decided just to use zip ties. Since the tube is black, it kind-of ends up disappearing and doesn't look too bad.

I'm still in the middle of it but I plan on running the hot end wires through the flex tube to the top, to the extruder stepper and then from there It'll be paired with the Bowden tube and run down to the hot end.