Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
Had to order 3 of these to get the minimum order and only needed one. Same motor Werner used on Berrybot3d extruder.
$29.00 ea + shipping.
pm with questions.
[img]http://store.kysanelectronics.com/catalog/35BYG304.jpg[/img]
17HG-B1/5.2-C6 SKU: 1040222 MOTOR,STEP,GEARED,42MM,5.2:1,1830MM WIRE CONNECTOR
1.8 DEGREE,2.6V,1A,2.6 OHM,NEMA 17,BIPOLAR
$29.00 ea + shipping.
pm with questions.
[img]http://store.kysanelectronics.com/catalog/35BYG304.jpg[/img]
17HG-B1/5.2-C6 SKU: 1040222 MOTOR,STEP,GEARED,42MM,5.2:1,1830MM WIRE CONNECTOR
1.8 DEGREE,2.6V,1A,2.6 OHM,NEMA 17,BIPOLAR
Last edited by km28104 on Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
Updated
Ken
Ken
Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
One sold, and one left.
Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
Would these add more torque for the EZ struder?
Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
still available?
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
That photo looks like it has an 8mm shaft. Is that the case here? I purchased a gear motor a while back and had to bore the drive roller out from 5mm to 8mm.
edit: It is 8mm. Here is the data sheet: http://www.kysanelectronics.com/Product ... ordID=8318
edit: It is 8mm. Here is the data sheet: http://www.kysanelectronics.com/Product ... ordID=8318
Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
All motors have been sold. Thanks
Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
Here's where I bought mine - $34 and $18 shipping to US but you can buy a single:
http://www.stepperonline.com/gear-51-pl ... -p-40.html
Probably not Kysan motor but gearbox looks very similar. Works great, but like the Kysan, has an 8mm shaft on the gearbox instead of 5mm as on the motor
http://www.stepperonline.com/gear-51-pl ... -p-40.html
Probably not Kysan motor but gearbox looks very similar. Works great, but like the Kysan, has an 8mm shaft on the gearbox instead of 5mm as on the motor
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Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
All - Do these geared steppers bolt right into existing configurations on the Rostock or did you all have to build / print modifications?
Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
You need to print or make an adaptor plate to adapt the round end of the planetary gearset with a smaller bolt hole pattern to the standard NEMA 17 square bolt pattern (see photo on 1st post above). Too bad they didn't make the gearset with NEMA 17 flanges on both ends. Also you need to bore the drive roller on the ezstruder to 8mm ID from 5mm ID.inventabuild wrote:All - Do these geared steppers bolt right into existing configurations on the Rostock or did you all have to build / print modifications?
Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
You would also need to change the steps/mm in your EEPROM. I guess you would multiply it by 5.2.inventabuild wrote:All - Do these geared steppers bolt right into existing configurations on the Rostock or did you all have to build / print modifications?
Questions? Ask in a thread - PMs are off.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
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- Printmaster!
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Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
I multiplied the steps by 5.18 and the motor ran hot with current set to 195 (stock setting in github) in the Repetier firmware so I turned it down to 135.
Now the hot end turns off when I run the motor.
What other settings do I need to change in Repetier to properly run this Kysan geared motor?
Now the hot end turns off when I run the motor.
What other settings do I need to change in Repetier to properly run this Kysan geared motor?
Re: Kysan Geared Stepper Motor (2)
When you say the hot end turns off, do you mean the light in Repetier turns off or do you mean the temperature drops for no apparent reason? Are you absolutely positive that the wires are hooked up in the right order and that none have loose crimps? Can you get the stepper to spin without any filament?
Extruder heat failing with lower current to the stepper makes me think the current is set too low. If you connect a battery, a LED, and a motor in series, the LED will be sort of bright. If you stall the motor, the LED will get brighter because now the electromagnetic coils in the motor are just conducting most of the current rather than converting it. This lowers the resistance across the motor, so there is more available for the LED. The power supply in our Rostocks likes to shut off power ports if they are shorted (ask me how I know, haha.) It could be the power supply thinking that all that extra current being driven through the MOSFET, not encountering much resistance in the stepper, and returning to ground means that something's been shorted.
People say that steppers have the same current draw whether they're stalled or not, but there are stepper drivers that can detect a stall, and I don't know any other way they'd do that. (I don't think ours do, but they have a current sense resistor. That implies that it's examining the current draw, at least internally.) Steppers don't have any feedback mechanism to tell the controller they're stalled, so other than measuring current draw I don't know of a way to detect that. If I'm right, that means a stepper that stays stalled long enough will trip the power supply's internal protection.
Extruder heat failing with lower current to the stepper makes me think the current is set too low. If you connect a battery, a LED, and a motor in series, the LED will be sort of bright. If you stall the motor, the LED will get brighter because now the electromagnetic coils in the motor are just conducting most of the current rather than converting it. This lowers the resistance across the motor, so there is more available for the LED. The power supply in our Rostocks likes to shut off power ports if they are shorted (ask me how I know, haha.) It could be the power supply thinking that all that extra current being driven through the MOSFET, not encountering much resistance in the stepper, and returning to ground means that something's been shorted.
People say that steppers have the same current draw whether they're stalled or not, but there are stepper drivers that can detect a stall, and I don't know any other way they'd do that. (I don't think ours do, but they have a current sense resistor. That implies that it's examining the current draw, at least internally.) Steppers don't have any feedback mechanism to tell the controller they're stalled, so other than measuring current draw I don't know of a way to detect that. If I'm right, that means a stepper that stays stalled long enough will trip the power supply's internal protection.
Questions? Ask in a thread - PMs are off.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.