PRINTER_RADIUS

[Blu-Bin]

Hey all,
I'm calibrating the firmware's printer radius on our shop's Rostock MAX.
It's currently at 190, and while I'm fairly sure I'm flattening out the perceived convexity of the build plate, I see minimal change in the positioning across calibrations to the position of the extruder when I run script 4.
G28
G0 Z0 F3500
The extruder maintains a height of about 2mm above the build plate.
My process is to calibrate each tower, then run Script 4, and as the extruder is still floating above drop the printer radius by about 0.5, and then perform the necessary disconnections and uploads.
Should I add a step or two? Any other recommendations? Would changing the printer height in the repetier printer host (also repetier firmware) make this go smoother?

[JohnStack]

Personally, I think this is just a bit of luck as Geneb implies. I had to reduce the setting to get it to go down (I think if memory serves) - and that was counter to the instructions. I ended up at 198; however, that was with the hotends.com and an overall length of 273.6...

I'm going through it again this weekend and will let you know. 5th hot end blowout.

[Eaglezsoar]

Personally, I think this is just a bit of luck as Geneb implies. I had to reduce the setting to get it to go down (I think if memory serves) - and that was counter to the instructions. I ended up at 198; however, that was with the hotends.com and an overall length of 273.6...

I'm going through it again this weekend and will let you know. 5th hot end blowout.

John, what are you doing that can cause 5 hotends to blow out? I want to make sure that I don't do that.

[cpunches]

I'm running a close second to John - I'm at 3 so far

[Eaglezsoar]

I'm running a close second to John - I'm at 3 so far

Too much heat melting the Peek?

[cpunches]

I'm running a close second to John - I'm at 3 so far

Too much heat melting the Peek?

That's what killed my 1st stock hotend. My "repaired" stock end never really made the grade so I count that as 2. The 3rd was the E3d that I broke the connecting tube on last night as I was taking it apart to figure out what was clogging the nozzle. I'll have it fixed as soon as the replacement parts arrive, but that will be another month shot. I have a brand new stock hotend I've hooked up and I'll be giving it a try tonight.

[SanjayM]

Corey,

Sorry to hear you had some bad luck with your hotend.

Don't worry too much, all our parts have come in, and I expect your second order for replacements to have shipped in a few days time. No months involved!

Sanjay

[JohnStack]

From memory, thought I wrote this up and posted it. Maybe not.

#1 - Stock head: I admit I'm an idiot. The first time was simply too much heat.
#2 - Stock head, gummed up print (stringy), catching on hot end, plastic stuck to thermistor wiring, so I pulled it off and the thermistor.
#3 - Stock head, wrong feed setting and no peek cooling caused a bowden tube blowout.
#4 - Hotends.com head, shitty thermistor setup - and suffice it to say, peek cooling is 100% mandatory.
#5 - Found out that the RTV Copper was defective and might have caused all of my problems.

The funny thing is that I've printed and printed and printed.

I ordered two of these - and am waiting on @SeeMeCNC to finish testing theirs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Plus-Hot-End ... 33827a46c9

I'm relieved that I was finally able to print out a peek cooling fan and I plan on using it religiously.

I also found out that everything has it's own time. In my down time, I've continued on my learning 3D design, fabbed up a Raspberry PI with Octoprint (waiting to use it on a real print), and designed shark fins for GemShark (mockup photo below.)

[kbob]

I don't know what that thing is, but I like the skateboard.

[JohnStack]

The shark fins are for a paddle board rack. This was for the useful item contest but I think I am too late.