Fuses on the Rambo

[jmick]

How many fuses are on the Rambo board and where are they located, what does each control and are they all the same size?
I need to buy some and would like to know which to examine for each problem. I have the order info for the Littlefuse 5a, but
don't know if there are any others I will need to have on hand. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have looked for you tube
videos on changing fuses on the Rambo but can't seem to find any? I have found F2, F3, F4 on the schematic but only can find
2 of them over by the power in Block. Is their also an F1? Why do we connect our hot end to Heat 0 and the Peek fan to Fan 1?
Why does Heat 0 work when Repetier calls out Extruder 1?

JMick in Nv

[Flateric]

If your handy with a soldering iron you may wish to consider swapping in wired sockets for standard automotive fusing.

Save yourself a few bucks and they are easily and widely available everywhere.

[Polygonhell]

The 0 /1 thing, usually programmers count from 0, for whatever reason Repetier Host starts counting from 1, so Heat 0 is extruder 1.

There are 3 fuses, assuming you have a later RAMBO board the large automotive fuse is for the heated bed.
There are 2 little fuse 5A fuses, one is for the remaining mosfet outputs (extruder etc), the other for "everything else".
Changing them is trivial , pull them out with a pair of tweezers, and put a new one in.

[jmick]

I have read different post where others have jumped the 5a fuse with a 10A auto fuse. Is that a safe thing to do without destroying your Rambo.
I have new little fuses coming Wed. so I think I'll wait and replace with 5a and see how long they last. If they fail again I will probably pull them
out and solder jump the 10A over the 5a and put it back in. what do you all think?


Unrelated: I have already rewired everything and found nothing wrong. I think maybe something else blew this fuse like my switch problem or the fact that the LCD monitor never worked. What stymies me is that the hotbed still works perfectly and all axis perform perfectly. I have not bothered trying the extruder yet as I haven't been ready for it.

While rewiring I thought of an idea of changing the wiring by inserting 3 pieces of 1" PVC tubing around the perimeter of the table at 120 degrees that are machined perfectly to the distance between table and top, drilling 3/4" holes in table and run the wiring all the way to the top thru one of them and moving the extruder to the top and feeding the filament from up there also the hot end wiring from the top down. I want to get all that stuff out of the way and I think it would look better. The tubing would also serve to keep the machne evenly spaced and the wiring more orderly. I went to home depot and they wouldn't let me use their saws to get the lenth close, said it would void their warranty on their machines if they cut anything but lumber. Their manager backed them up when I objected so I'll have to do it myself with a file and sandpaper after I saw them close enough.

[Polygonhell]

I replaced the one I blew for the Hotend with a little fuse 10A fuse, I ordered 3 or 4 when I blew the first one, I haven't blown one since.
You could use an automotive fuse and solder leads to the board, but they shouldn't be blowing without a serious issue, so I'd personally just stick to the little fuse fuses.

[jmick]

I soldered a 10a auto fuse to the burned out 5a little fuse and now have my hot end working.