Calibration Cube hints?

[TRAILtech]

I'm having trouble printing a quality calibration cube. The bridge portion keeps on sagging and looking like spaghetti...

Set-up:

Printing with PLA
Fan blowing on printer (Made a huge difference)

; layer_height = 0.2
; perimeters = 2
; top_solid_layers = 3
; bottom_solid_layers = 3
; fill_density = .25
; perimeter_speed = 30
; infill_speed = 30
; travel_speed = 200
; nozzle_diameter = 0.5
; filament_diameter = 1.65
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.85mm
; infill extrusion width = 1.02mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.85mm
; top infill extrusion width = 2.50mm

RESULTS


[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo9.jpg[/img]

NOTE: I have ordered the tricklazer arms and a J-head extruder. However, I odn't think those items will help me out.. What settings have you guys found to work best for the calibration cube?

[JohnStack]

It doesn't look bad for PLA - everything seems pretty straight. Many use a fan on the print (and definitely on the head!).

Your settings seemed ok for PLA.

Believe it or not, you might get a better print out of ABS. What temps are you using for it? Might be a little hot - but not 100% sure. I would get a fan printed bracket printed for the print itself - 25mm will be fine. You might have to ratchet back the speed on the head fan (be careful here!) due to too much cooling...

Did the top fill ok?

[lordbinky]

if you're using Slic3r, under the advanced options you can increase the speed for bridges to reduce drooping.

[626Pilot]

If I was printing this in KISSlicer, I would enable support with a gap of 1.5 - 2 mm. It will print a sprue under the place where the bridge goes. The sprue is only weakly connected and will just snap out, either by hand or with some encouragement from some wire clippers. The key is to print it with the gap at the right setting.