new guy build

[motorsportking]

I have been researching what type of 3d printer to build for a while and went with the rostock max as i love the delta look and print size it offers. This was after looking at mendalmax and eventorbot also.

So far I have printed the parts using our makerbot 2 at work that I can, including the greg's wade's extruder mod that I found on thingiverse. I have constructed carbon arms with magnetic ball ends, these are adjustable length for very fine tunning. i have had the frame cut from a very cool acrylic, and think I will end up going with ramps 1.4 for the electrics.
As far as hot end goes i want to try with the e3d hotend as from what i read it seems to be a nice reliable part. i have modded a wire brush end into the extruder to clean the hobbed bolt as it rotates, i also made the hobbed bolt at work and this system is to prevent slippage, it includes a small {5mm} draw fan to clear debris released by brush.
I am doing this on a very tight budget as are most builders, and it is that reason i was leaning towards the ramps, a cost based decision. I purchased through a work supplier some good bearings and have been lucky to have had access to free bolts throughout the build, I just dont want to be buying more electrics or a different hot end ect.

I have read through the forum for a few months now getting tips here and there but now want to ask if there is anything that stands out as a bad decision or pitfall in my build plan.
The one thing i am wanting advice about the most is the bed and heating parts. what are the best and most reliable that people can recommend thus far, i understand that opinions differ but the cream also rises to the top.....

also i have noticed people having bed leveling issues, I have a 3 decimal digital level i was going to use throughout the build, has this method been used? if so was it workable?

Thanks all for any help I appreciate it.

Go easy on the new guy.

[Eaglezsoar]

I like your plans so far, you seem to have this well thought out.
As far as heat beds, good ones can be have from Trinity - http://trinitylabs.com/collections/all
I do recommend the 24V heaters at the most wattage you can afford. I would also drive the bed
through a solid state relay so that the Ramps does not have all the current flowing through it.
Other bed offers that are a step up is the Silicone heaters that are adhesive and glue to the back
of an aluminum plate. You may want to consider 120Vac models again driven by an SSR. The
aluminum plate should be 1/4" or thicker to prevent warping as it heats. Good Mic-6 plates are
available at http://www.sandsmachine.com/alumweb.htm You may have to have the size cut down.
You will also need a piece of glass to fit the plate, some use borasilic, others use regular glass.
I do not like the digital levels because I have never found one that is accurate and repeatable. A good
square is needed to ensure the uprights are square to the bed. In summation, this is what I would choose:
A silicone heating pad, self adhesive
An aluminum plate from the above source and glass to cover it - borasilic if possible
A SSR driving the heating pad
An accurate square
Also there are thermistors that screw into a 3mm hole and prevent the number one source of frustration, the
thermistor pulls out of the hole ruining hotends. They can also screw into the aluminum heat bed. They can
be found here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Modular-Screw-o ... 4ac8fc622a

I am interested in how you made your magnetic arms length adjustable, could you share how you did that?
Have a great build!

[motorsportking]

my arms i have made with carbon tube with countersunk magnets {10mm od} in each end on top of a 5mm section of steel rod that has a 8mm grub scew in it that can be wound in or out of the rod thus adjusting the length. On the opposing parts are 10 mm od magnetic balls glued in place. i cant pull the magnets out of the tube using the ball end side, and the 3 mm center hole in the tube magnets means i can put a tool down to adjust the height. i will be putting pics up in the coming weeks {I fly away for work frequently}. the ball into countersunk section seems to allow free travel to a large range of movement. the adjust-ability is not a necessity but i like it.
I can get the alloy plate from work easily and also have a brochure on heat pads, but the ones we use are for motorsport applications like the outside of surge tanks to pre-heat oil ect so I will have to investigate the viability.
one question I forgot to ask was if the nema 17 1.7A motors will be fine or if i need to go to something like a 2.1A? especially for the extruder.

should i look at any other hot ends? i plan on using 1.75mm fillament instead of 3mm.

also are the bearing covers a necessity? as i am building this as i go i am trying to learn as i go also {the makerbot naturally came as a plug and play unit}

and last but not lease i want to try and have a go at adapting the bukobot style syncromesh cable and gear system, and ideas on this?

Thanks for the help i appreciate it.