T-Glase print temp/speed?

[cope413]

I just got 2 spools of the new Taulman filament T-Glase.

Just started printing with it and I've tried 210, 215, and 220C, and it seems like I'd need to be printing at 150mm/s to keep up with it.

Anyone played with it yet and have suggestions? I get a decent first layer, and then it turns into a big blobby pile of awesome PETT... It's not exactly cheap, so I'd like to avoid wasting it while playing with settings.

Oh, and I just installed my shiny new v5 E3D hotend if that affects anything...

[lordbinky]

Make sure you changed your firmware settings to match the thermistor, and even then if you haven't calibrated your thermistor temps the real temp is just guesswork.

My suggestion is to, even if you don't calibrate your temperature immediately, simply set your hotend temp to 150°C and keep turning it up 10° at a time and try to extrude filament by hand feeding, that way you learn the minimum temperature for the filament is.

[lordbinky]

Oh and post pics when you get get some prints you're happy with here, and post prints you're not happy with in the fail sections

[cope413]

Yeah, that was the first thing I looked at. I did calibrate the new hotend. I used the thermistor code listed in the E3D manual.

PLA printed fine, so I think my temp is good. Just a new filament, so I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like, and a new hot end, so I'm not sure what my speeds should be at.

Gonna play with it all weekend. I'm sure I'll have a few good and a few not-so-good ones to post come Monday.

[h3ss]

I am using a J-Head and was printing with it at 230c / 30mm/s. I have three part cooling fans on the effector currently, which works well with PLA, but with T-Glase it seemed to cool it down too much and I think the layers adhesion is not as good as it could be as a result. Since T-Glase has a higher glass transition temperature, it doesn't need to cool as much as PLA.

You can see part of a print in this video:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI8ADiL4NyY[/youtube]

The part did come out pretty good overall, but I was expecting a little better from the reviews i have been reading.

I am going to try printing it a bit faster and without all the cooling fans to see if the part comes out a little stronger.

[Capitali]

I am just doing my first print with the t-glase as well. I started with hand feeding … I started getting melt around 203, but flow around 215…
.35mm head, 30mm/s and it seems to be working nicely at the moment.

[Eaglezsoar]

I am just doing my first print with the t-glase as well. I started with hand feeding … I started getting melt around 203, but flow around 215…
.35mm head, 30mm/s and it seems to be working nicely at the moment.

Are you using any part cooling fans?

[Capitali]

I've got just 3 25mm fans in the standard CNC head all facing in at the peek… but they do seem to provide a good little wind enough to keep most of my PLA prints cool at 100% .. so for this I set them to 30%… just because… so far seems ok so I'm not messing with anything.

[PartDaddy]

It was recommended for best results to use a 0.5mm nozzle and taller layer height, like 0.3mm. 215C is the best starting point.

[Capitali]

I hadn't seen the recommendation on .5mm nozzle. I'm doing .325 for the layers though…
[img]http://i.imgur.com/XEaxcHC.jpg[/img]

[Capitali]

so somewhere along the line the fans got set back to 100%… seems to still be working out ok though

http://imgur.com/a/2KoYV

[h3ss]

After switching out my hotend to an Aluhotend LT, and removing my part fans, I think I've run into the same problem that Cope413 described.

What seems to happen is that little bits of the infill that are not flush with the current layer tend to stick to the tip of the nozzle. These get dragged around and pull up increasing amounts of infill till you have a stingy mess following your nozzle around.

I suspect that the part fans were what was saving me from this originally. On the part that I printed without them, layer adhesion was worse, too. All in all, not using a part fan was the wrong direction to go.

I'm printing some fan ducts out of ABS at the moment and will probably try T-Glase again once I have them in place.

[cope413]

Yeah, no luck this weekend. I definitely think I need a part fan or 2. The fan duct I had no longer works with the E3 hotend.

I tried a room fan but it was way too much airflow and cooled the extruder too much.

It seems to be a pretty temperature specific filament.

Anyone got fan ducts or mounts that work with the V5 hotend?

[cope413]

It's taken me a little bit, but I think I've gotten this new filament figured out a bit...

210 seems to work best for me.

70C bed.

I have the E3D .4 nozzle. Per Taulman, I set my nozzle diameter to .5mm and layer height to .40mm.

I have tried printing with a cooling fan, but I don't notice any difference with a fan.

It's got some very interesting characteristics. Very cool looking, and seems to be very strong. Much stronger than PLA.

My biggest gripe is that it requires very slow print speeds.

Anything more than 30mm/s, and my struder skips and the filament kinks. (The big one is spray painted pink in order to try to convince her that 3D printing has potential in the home decor world...)

I'd love a 1mm or 1.2mm nozzle, but I've ordered the .6mm from E3D.

I'll post more pics as I print anything noteworthy.


For now, my Russian doll vases will have to do...

[626Pilot]

Just got mine in the mail. Seems to print nice at 210/70 and 30mm/sec. Fan doesn't seem to matter much. High speeds are out of the question. I'm going to ink up some of the filament with fruity markers and see what happens.

[626Pilot]

I haven't had much luck with this stuff. It always get jammed up in the Bowden tube, either because it's too thick or too kinked. I tried cutting off a bunch of it to see if that would help, but it didn't. Maybe I got a bad reel. I have some 618 nylon and it seems to work just fine.

[m4r1n5]

You have a bad reel. I had the same problems and I was getting almost 2mm diameter in some areas. SeeMe was nice enough to replace the one I bought from them because of the problems I had. Now the one I have works just fine through the tubes however its still inconsistent and diameters by Almost .06mm on 5 different measurements, but usually between 1.64-1.70mm.

a problem I'm having now is that it won't stick to the heat bag. I've tried using painters tape and it didn't work. I've also used Kapton tape which barely stuck on and 8 hours into my print broke loose (all that Tglase wasted :-/ ). I just tried hairspray and I'm getting the same result, its not sticking. Does anybody have any ideas what going wrong? My temp is 217 and my first layer is down to 1.5.

[cope413]

Try just heating the bed to 70-75c, no glue, hairspray, or paint - just straight on the glass...