Extending wires

[Darth]

The manual talked about extending wiring using the provided wires in the kit, but there is no detail about what wires in the kit (four wire 18ga, 22ga, etc.). Is this just too basic for more description, or am I missing something. A brief description or pictures would help.

I know how to solder two wires together, and use heat shrink tubing to protect the connection, but I feel that I am missing something, before I make a big lump of connections.

[Polygonhell]

Are you asking which wires need to be extended or which wire to use for the extension.
For the former just extend as needed, for the latter, everything that needs an extension is 22ga or smaller I think.

[cassetti]

Not near my kit right now but....

For extending the Z-motor wire as described in the manual, pretty sure you would use some of the gray wire with the 4 wires inside

(I'll be getting to the wiring part this weekend)

[kit]

hey guys Im just wondering am I suppose to extend the wires by soldering them together or can I crimp the wires using connectors??

[Jimustanguitar]

hey guys Im just wondering am I suppose to extend the wires by soldering them together or can I crimp the wires using connectors??

As long as you make a good electrical connection, it won't matter. The motor wires aren't high current or high heat, so either should be fine.

I soldered mine because I trust my own workmanship on that type of connection more.

[kit]

Just one last Newbie question. I bought these connectors that were listed on the hardware needed for assembly. Are these connectors for extending the EZextruder wires only? or are they also used for some other wire extensions too??

[img]http://i.imgur.com/fu3CYrM.jpg[/img]

And just on a side note Mugatu you are a inspiration to all people who want to use cheap child labor to produce clothes. Damn that Derrick Zoolander and his awesomely different poses!

[Eaglezsoar]

Just a preference of mine plus 40+ years of working in the electronics field but I would always solder a connection, if possible,
rather than crimp simply because the crimped connection has the possibility of oxidizing or coming loose but a well soldered
connection will be much stronger, last longer and has less chance of failure.
As far as the connectors you show, they can be used anywhere that the wire will fit into them but as indicated above the only
thing I would use them for is to line the bottom of my trash can.

[cope413]

If you do use those butt splices, be sure to get a crimper like this...

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... CGwQ9QEwBg

and line up the seam of the splice into the middle of the semi-circle opening at the tip of the crimpers. The crimp should be 180 degrees from the seam in order to ensure a solid connection and avoid some of what Eagle mentioned.

[kit]

Alright thanks guys. I apperciate the information.

I would like to solder them but Im just worried that my soldering skills wont be correct for the wiring and may short out the cold extrusion.

So Im suppose to put some heat shrink tubing over the wire. Then strip the wires one at a time. And connect each of the 4 wires to another one of the extending 4 wires. Then solder the wires together and cover it with heat shrink??

Ill try soldering it since there seems to be plenty of excess wire to use for extending.

[Eaglezsoar]

Alright thanks guys. I apperciate the information.

I would like to solder them but Im just worried that my soldering skills wont be correct for the wiring and may short out the cold extrusion.

So Im suppose to put some heat shrink tubing over the wire. Then strip the wires one at a time. And connect each of the 4 wires to another one of the extending 4 wires. Then solder the wires together and cover it with heat shrink??

Ill try soldering it since there seems to be plenty of excess wire to use for extending.

You got it exactly right. Your soldering skills may not be that good now but it is not that difficult to get better with time and it is
a skill that you need to learn. You can do it, it just takes a few connections and you will be as good as anyone.
Make sure when you do the heat shrink that you don't get it to hot and burn a hole in it, I've had that happen to me before.
Good luck with your build.

[kit]

Ive been practicing my soldering and I think its gotten pretty good.

But... I messed up pretty badly.

I put the resistor for the LED into the wrong polarity and tried to unsolder it. Then I realized that the wires were too short so tried to solder on extra wire that I cut off back onto it. But the wires were too thin and the cold solder was too brittle.
After all that Im pretty sure I burnt the resistor to a point of no return.

I just want to make sure that the turquoise resistor is used to only power the LED light. And if its alright if i just go on ahead and install the oynx until I can find a replacement.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/8812PhV.jpg[/img]

[dsnettleton]

The resistor can easily be replaced. Just match the colored bands to make sure you have the same resistance. To my recollection, if you leave the resistor out, the bed will still heat up, but the LED won't light. If you can live with that, don't bother. For future reference, though, resistors don't have polarity as such. Resistance is the same regardless of which direction the current is coming from. So you really didn't have to desolder it to start with. I'm not sure how your leads got so short, but one of the advantages of soldering is reversibility. So when you solder, it's helpful to keep in mind that you may want to remove it again some day. Trust the solder to hold the parts, and don't bother with twisting wires together, etc. Then you can just heat up the solder and pull them apart without having to trim anything.

If it was me and I didn't have any matching resistors laying around, I'd just install the bed as is. If you find that you can't stand not having a little light blinking as your bed heats up, you can always add that resistor later.

[Eaglezsoar]

The resistor can easily be replaced. Just match the colored bands to make sure you have the same resistance. To my recollection, if you leave the resistor out, the bed will still heat up, but the LED won't light. If you can live with that, don't bother. For future reference, though, resistors don't have polarity as such. Resistance is the same regardless of which direction the current is coming from. So you really didn't have to desolder it to start with. I'm not sure how your leads got so short, but one of the advantages of soldering is reversibility. So when you solder, it's helpful to keep in mind that you may want to remove it again some day. Trust the solder to hold the parts, and don't bother with twisting wires together, etc. Then you can just heat up the solder and pull them apart without having to trim anything.

If it was me and I didn't have any matching resistors laying around, I'd just install the bed as is. If you find that you can't stand not having a little light blinking as your bed heats up, you can always add that resistor later.

I agree with everything you said with one exception. "Trust the solder to hold the parts, and don't bother with twisting wires together, etc." One of the first things you should do
before soldering is to make a good mechanical connection which means that the wires should always be twisted together, if possible you should first think about how you can make
a mechanical connection, then solder. The rest of your advice is excellent.

[geneb]

Specifically, THIS: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_union_splice

If you're careful, you can make a very, very nice splice that way. Slip a bit of heat shrink tubing over it and you're done.

g.

[dsnettleton]

Good point. I come from a background of stringed instrument repair, for which a solid lap joint with some heat-shrink tubing is preferable and sufficient. That said, a 3D printer is not a guitar. Listen to Eaglez and Gene.

[kit]

Alright thanks for all the advice guys.

Im just going to move on ahead with completing the RoStock Max.

Ill try to look for some 4.7k Resistors but it will probably take some time.

I also messed up the soldering of the heated pad power wires pretty badly so Ive got to find some desoldering wire. I think i rushed into it too quickly to try to get the solder onto the pad and the wire and it just ended up turning into a mixture of cold solder and what looks to be like okay solder. I realized i shouldve waited a bit longer until the pad was hot enough.

But Im building my Rostock Max in Cambodia so theres no radioshack to pick up supplies or a walmart to get emery sticks to sand down the u joints.

Im trying to bring 3d printing to this country and you guy has done a great deal in helping me.

If you guys are interested and want more information or have any more advice just send me a PM.

Thanks again.

[Eaglezsoar]

I didn't realize that you are in Cambodia. I'm sure it is difficult to find parts. There is nothing we can do to solve that problem but we are here anytime you need support and we will do
our best to help you.

[bubbasnow]

Alright thanks for all the advice guys.

Im just going to move on ahead with completing the RoStock Max.

Ill try to look for some 4.7k Resistors but it will probably take some time.

I also messed up the soldering of the heated pad power wires pretty badly so Ive got to find some desoldering wire. I think i rushed into it too quickly to try to get the solder onto the pad and the wire and it just ended up turning into a mixture of cold solder and what looks to be like okay solder. I realized i shouldve waited a bit longer until the pad was hot enough.

But Im building my Rostock Max in Cambodia so theres no radioshack to pick up supplies or a walmart to get emery sticks to sand down the u joints.

Im trying to bring 3d printing to this country and you guy has done a great deal in helping me.

If you guys are interested and want more information or have any more advice just send me a PM.

Thanks again.

Also remember that you could use other combinations of resistors to equal 4.7k resistor. parallel and series combinations of others can give your desired value.

[Jimustanguitar]

But Im building my Rostock Max in Cambodia so theres no radioshack to pick up supplies or a walmart to get emery sticks to sand down the u joints.

Im trying to bring 3d printing to this country and you guy has done a great deal in helping me.

That's fascinating, awesome mission!

The resistor that you mentioned and some desoldering braid are both quite easy to come by in the US. If you absolutely can't find them, PM me and I can go buy them and ship them your direction. I've sent motorcycle parts all over the world, and it's not as expensive as you'd think to mail a padded envelope internationally.

[kit]

Its been a bit difficult finding the right tools for building the rostock, but I did bring tools over here so they help a bit. All i really need is some good solder and a molex crimper.

Jimustanguitar thank you for your offer but I wouldnt want it to be too much of a hassle. I actually ordered some more molex pins and connectors from Ultimachine and it was pretty cheap. I think it was like $5 for the connectors and pins and 7 bucks for shipping by USPS, it did take about a month to get here but they're here now, so Im doing alright for now. Its really just the tools that are difficult to find. Maybe if one day I really need something then I will let you know. Again, I appreciate the offer.

Thanks again for everyones help.

[geneb]

If you're very careful, you can use a small needle nose pliers to crimp the connectors on. It does take a little practice though.

g.

[doctorgonzo]

Kit,

Why not source things from, say, China? Or Taiwan? Hong Kong? The Molex connectors, for example, are probably manufactured close to you, geographically speaking.

Just thinking out loud,

Chris

[kit]

Ive ordered parts from the states and my ABS spools were shipped from China.

For the most part I do order from China. But not everywhere in China ships to Cambodia. Also its difficult finding the right parts from a seller who ships to Cambodia for a low cost. Although China is closer geographically its still quite expensive to ship over here, and there is still a slight chance that it never arrives.