Trouble with the hot end I think
Trouble with the hot end I think
I had everything up and working.... But then... After a couple hours into the print the hotend seems to overheat higher up. The Extruder starts to Skip, the PEEK is too hot to touch(Yes I have a fan on it), and it won't feed very much. I pause the print, G28, then I kick the hot end off and let the PEEK fan cool it off for an hour. Then I kick the heat back on, and un pause. Everything goes about its biz as usual. I bought this a few weeks ago so I think I have latest Firmware and nozzle. What to do and where to start?
(RostockMax kit)
(RostockMax kit)
Eschew Obfuscation
- foshon
- Printmaster!
- Posts: 600
- Joined: Fri Mar 08, 2013 3:05 pm
- Location: Just to the right of SeeMeCNC
Re: Trouble with the hot end I think
Have you verified your thermistor reading? I do not use the stock hot end, but I would assume that if it is hot to the touch at the insulator, with a fan, it is probably over temp.
Purple = sarcasm
Please do a board search before posting your question, many have been answered with very time consuming detail already.
Please do a board search before posting your question, many have been answered with very time consuming detail already.
Re: Trouble with the hot end I think
Are you using the PEEK fan duct? Might help. If nothing else, it would avoid letting the PEEK fan cool the hot end, which can cause jamming. I also agree that you should verify that the temp you think it has is the actual temp.
Questions? Ask in a thread - PMs are off.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
Re: Trouble with the hot end I think
Also double check and make sure your thermister is properly mounted. If it does not have a good position where it can absorb the full measure of the heat then it will read much cooler than it actually is and by the time it "reaches temp", your hotend is actually a lot hotter.
- Lochemage
My super cool build stories: Rostock MAX, GUS Simpson
"Give a man a compliment and he'll be all, 'Yeah, I've been working out.' Teach a man to fish for a compliment and he'll be all, 'I feel SO fat.'" - Bob FM
My super cool build stories: Rostock MAX, GUS Simpson
"Give a man a compliment and he'll be all, 'Yeah, I've been working out.' Teach a man to fish for a compliment and he'll be all, 'I feel SO fat.'" - Bob FM
Re: Trouble with the hot end I think
I printed the fan shroud and installed it. Seems to be helping so far. Now I jsut need to address the edge curl issue.
Eschew Obfuscation
Re: Trouble with the hot end I think
You can get a year supply of Elmer's school glue sticks on Amazon for cheap. They will fix the bottom edge from lifting off the surface. Curling on edges above the first layer is usually because you're going too fast or need a part cooling fan.
Questions? Ask in a thread - PMs are off.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
Re: Trouble with the hot end I think
I currently am using the elmers glue stick (by happenstance my kids glue stick was sitting 6" from the machine when I had first read about it) I still have a hard time getting the first pass to stick. I got better results by slowing the machine to 10% for the first layer, but it still did it a bit. whats the trick?
Eschew Obfuscation
Re: Trouble with the hot end I think
I heard that only the purple glue stick actually works for this, are you sure you're using the purple and not the standard white? I personally use hairspray on glass and it works extremely well. There is some talk about the particular brand of hairspray that works well, I am using Suave extreme hold. The only thing I don't like about hairspray is that you have to be careful not to get any of the spray onto the smooth rods or moving parts, they will glue your machine so it can't move anymore.mcosman wrote:I currently am using the elmers glue stick (by happenstance my kids glue stick was sitting 6" from the machine when I had first read about it) I still have a hard time getting the first pass to stick. I got better results by slowing the machine to 10% for the first layer, but it still did it a bit. whats the trick?
- Lochemage
My super cool build stories: Rostock MAX, GUS Simpson
"Give a man a compliment and he'll be all, 'Yeah, I've been working out.' Teach a man to fish for a compliment and he'll be all, 'I feel SO fat.'" - Bob FM
My super cool build stories: Rostock MAX, GUS Simpson
"Give a man a compliment and he'll be all, 'Yeah, I've been working out.' Teach a man to fish for a compliment and he'll be all, 'I feel SO fat.'" - Bob FM
Re: Trouble with the hot end I think
I am using the purple. I went back to blue tape, slowed it down for the first layer. This has been better for me than the glue stick. The very last part I got to stick with the glue stick broke when I was trying to separate it.
Eschew Obfuscation