about to give up. A year and I still can't calibrate.

[sandy]

I am really close to despair.

I have my rostock max for a year. I've taken it apart 3 times, all the way down to the screws. I thought I might have delta arm blues, so I added Tricklaser arms and body (laser cut parts). I had other issues that were fixed, but I can't print a thing.

I thought my rails weren't square, so I took it apart and rebuilt it. I've followed every instruction to the letter. In the past 6 weeks I've spent a minimum of 3 hours a day, up to 11 on weekends trying to calibrate and I can't get a single print. I can't even print out the Onyx leveling print well enough for a decent pic. Its a barely visible smear at some places and globbing-to-the-hotend mess at others. I've been printing w/ hairspray on glass, cleaning the glass after each failed print attempt. These picks are from an attempt after re-doing the 4 points with a micrometer, otherwise default geometry.


https://secure.flickr.com/photos/110790 ... 283112456/

https://secure.flickr.com/photos/110790 ... 283110556/

https://secure.flickr.com/photos/110790 ... 283055275/

My platform is absolutely level, my rails are square, the height is the same at all 3 endstop switches (measured w/ cut yardstick from base to switch). My effector at the 4 points is level (measured with a micrometer).


Things I've discovered:
One rail is 5 mm longer than the other two, and that the cuts of all 3 rails (top and bottom) are not even.
While my base is level, the melamine bed the Onyx rests on is not.

This weekend I've spend 11 hours on Sat and 12 on Sun. just trying different geometry (one axis at a time, 0.25 degree change to see if it gets better or worse, readjusting the 4pts after EVERY firmware upload) No change big or small seems to make it better.

think that my rails aren't straight. Because when I put a level on them the are level at some points along their length and not at others. Also, I have watched the effector raise off the platform at Y-90 (opposite the Z tower)

The onyx bed also doesn't expand evenly when it heats up. A level on the bed - moved around the clock has it level when cold but 10 o'clock is higher than 9 o'clock or 11 o'clock when heated, while the center is level. If I put clips all around the glass - it gets even worse.

The effector lifts up off the glass at certain points while printing the Onyx-leveling guide.

Mine was one of the early kits. I think that I got one with quality control problems. But at this point I don't know what to do. I've invested so much time and money in this, that I am truly despairing.

I would be willing to pay someone to calibrate it for me. Otherwise, I will have to sell it. I can't afford to spend any more time on it, but I'm very reluctant to just throw it out.

Any help would be a life saver at this point.

[astroboy907]

I'm sorry for your trouble... I really can't help you as I've never had a 3D printer (I just hang around here. ). But if you are going to just throw it out, I'd take it, however I'm probably just as broke as you are!

In all seriousness though, I sincerely hope that you get your problems fixed. Knowing the awesome people around here, some print-guru will come along and help straighten things out. It *sounds* to me (as you said) like the bed/rails are not straight, though I don't know why. Are you having extruder problems too or is the extruder going pretty well? Keep at it. I'd honestly suggest a break from it at this point, forget the printer-prison for a bit and come back to it in a few days. Enough so that you don't start hammering at things (Trust me, I've done it).

[bubbasnow]

When you tore it apart did you set all the rails together on a flat surface? That would be an easy fix if they were bent. Where are you located?

[Batteau62]

I hope you haven't been trying to go totally solo? Definitely reach out for some help, whether it's SeeMeCNC, or here on the forum, I'm willing to bet that with some quality help you can get your Max tuned. What about setting up a video link like-Google Hangout or Skype? I would be willing to try and set that up with you, PM me. I would bet there are "super" users who would be willing to do the same. Best of luck

[sandy]

Thank you for your replies. I'll try to address all 3.

I am going to have to take a week break, because I'm going to be away on business this week.

I'm located in central NJ.

Extruder and electronics work fine. I'm using ABS and have tested at temps from 215-230 (230 works best with this filament) using KiSSlicer. I've used McHackney's settings, except for the filament diameter.

More info: After my first post, I sliced the Onyx Inner (the smaller aid) using Slic3r and ran it. The inner circle is about 3-4 inches in diameter. Within that small area, the letter X printed fine, the letter Z was a thin barely touching strand, and the letter Y was a globby mess that stuck to the hot-end. So even w/ in a small area the actual print heights are different.

I adjusted X,Y & Z heights down 0.5 in the eprom, and got slightly better results. Then I re-sliced that same Onyx inner with KiSSlicer, the same x,y,z eprom height sent the hot end crashing into the glass bed. FYI: I have X,Y & Z all set to the same height.

@Batteau62: "What about setting up a video link like-Google Hangout or Skype? I would be willing to try and set that up with you, PM me. I would bet there are "super" users who would be willing to do the same."

That sounds like an excellent idea, and I'm totally up for it, I can do next Sat or Sun afternoon/evening EST.

thanks,

[Batteau62]

Cool, as the week goes on we can solidify a time. I'm thinking we should do a google hangout, that way maybe we can recruit a few others to join in?

[Lochemage]

The effector lifts up off the glass at certain points while printing the Onyx-leveling guide.

Usually I see this when the U-joints, or in your case, the ball joints are 'sticky'. You say you use hairspray, one thing you have to be is careful when using it. Spray into a washcloth or paper towel away from the printer first, and then wipe the spray on the platform. If you spray directly on the platform when the platform is on the printer, particles will fly up and get into those joints. Getting hairspray into joints like. If the joints don't turn smoothly and easily, any time you change movement direction of the nozzle it will add torque to the effector and cause it to move up or down on the Z axis when it shouldn't.

As far as the google hangout idea, I'd be interested in joining that.

[sandy]

Google hangout sounds great. Anyone who needs help, or wants to help can join. I can make myself available any time after 12 noon EST Saturday and Sunday. I'll check back later this week to see what works for everyone else.