E3D V4 All metal hotend

All things related to the Rostock MAX 3D Printer, the worlds FIRST Delta kit!
User avatar
626Pilot
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 1716
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 12:52 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by 626Pilot »

Eaglezsoar wrote: We've had many threads in the past about placing a direct drive extruder on the effector and I seem to remember that everyone decided that the solutions were too heavy to
work well. In your experience have you seen this working well enough to be a permanent solution? Which would you recommend, the QUBD or the EZStruder? The QUBD
would seem like it would have the lowest profile. The problem would be interfacing the QUBD to the E3D. Most of the ones I have seen on Thingiverse are designed to work
with the QUBD nozzles. Any thoughts from you would be appreciated.
The principle most people defer to when they say not to mount a bunch of crap on the platform is that delta robots are "supposed" to have a lightweight, low-inertia platform. However, principles are only useful inasmuch as they represent what happens in the real world and can be used to accurately predict the likely outcome of some specific given actions and conditions. It's a good idea to keep the low inertia principle in mind. However, to me, principles should be treated like theories (i.e., they have to carry their weight by being proven in the real world.) Not everyone has time to test every principle out to the Nth degree and scientifically validate it, so for the most part we just listen to them and assume they're right until we have some reason to reexamine them. If someone tells you a principle, keep in mind that there's value in skepticism, even if it's just to try something and really know it won't work. In fact, trying something and failing at it provides highly valuable information, so that alone makes it interesting for me. If I spend ten hours on this and come up with nothing, I'm still better off because now I know what will happen and also because it's very likely that I will learn something useful along the way.

In this case, the question is what effect we can expect if we add a given amount of weight to the effector. Here are the relevant components of the system, and what we care about for each:
  • Stepper motors (how much force can they produce, and how much acceleration can they tolerate across their speed range?)
  • Drivetrain, consisting of belts, carriages, and delta arms (what is its mass, how much inertia does it add to the system, how much force can it transmit, and how strongly can we accelerate or decelerate an axis before deflection in the belt and delta arms exceeds our desired tolerances?)
  • Effector (what is its mass and the mass of everything on it?)
If I was a mathematician, I could fill a whiteboard with all sorts of equations about this stuff, and that would tell me approximately how fast I could set my print speeds, jerk, and acceleration before I start exceeding the machine's ability to absorb momentum. I'm not a mathematician, so all I can do is make educated guesses, see if anyone else has tried it, and try to project what's likely to happen given all that.

I'm not going to bother getting a QUBD because I already have an EZStruder and that will clamp right onto my E3D if I flip the adaptor piece upside down. The drive motor's center of mass should be as close to the vertical center of the platform as possible to avoid leverage issues. If possible, the stepper will sit slightly above the top of the platform (to keep it from fouling up the arms), the adaptor piece will sit inside the circumference of the platform, and the hot end will hang down underneath. It doesn't weigh as much as the stepper motor, but it might help a little to counterbalance it. (We want the center of mass to be as close to the geometric center of the platform as possible, as mass imparts more moment the further away it is from there, and that hurts our performance envelope.)

Here's a picture of what was printed with a QUBD. He says, "The Mr Shark print below was my best ever PLA print of any of my 3D printers to-date." It looks pretty clean to me! If I can get results like that printing around 50mm/sec on the outside loops, it would be a win. Anything above that is cake. I don't know if you've ever grabbed the platform while it's moving, but those steppers produce a LOT of torque. Like, "I better be careful not to get my fingers pinched by this thing, or they might get broken" levels of force. My initial prediction is that the force they can generate will be adequate to support reasonably high speeds before we run into problems with the arms flexing or the steppers being unable to produce enough torque. The payoff: No hysteresis, leading to cleaner retracts and corners.
Attachments
PLA Example1.jpg
User avatar
Eaglezsoar
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 7159
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by Eaglezsoar »

Nice writeup and thank you for your opinions.
User avatar
626Pilot
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 1716
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 12:52 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by 626Pilot »

It seems like I have to rebuild my hot end once every 20 hours or so. PLA eventually winds up getting into the threads and then it starts jamming. As the only thing to hold the thing tightly together is heating it to 320 and then letting it cool, I'm not surprised. I was thinking about using Loc-Tite on the little neck thing that goes between the cooling fins and the heater block, but obviously not on the hot end. Has anyone tried this? I'm going to ask the E3D guys and see what they think.
User avatar
Eaglezsoar
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 7159
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by Eaglezsoar »

626Pilot wrote:It seems like I have to rebuild my hot end once every 20 hours or so. PLA eventually winds up getting into the threads and then it starts jamming. As the only thing to hold the thing tightly together is heating it to 320 and then letting it cool, I'm not surprised. I was thinking about using Loc-Tite on the little neck thing that goes between the cooling fins and the heater block, but obviously not on the hot end. Has anyone tried this? I'm going to ask the E3D guys and see what they think.
What about using teflon tape on the threads?
User avatar
Av8r RC
Printmaster!
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:09 am

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by Av8r RC »

I tried changing the extrusion and infill width to 0.45 and re-checked the filament multiplier. It ended up changing to 0.95

Still getting blobbing on the corners, and slowing the accel still results in way overfilled corners. I've pretty much settled in to accel of 500. Changing the jerk settings didn't seem to make any noticeable changes,so left it at 20.

Almost every test I've done has been at a height of 0.3, since it's the worst there. Since it doesn't seem to be going away and I've kinda found the sweet spot I tried some lower layer height prints, 0.15, 0.1, and just for kicks 0.05 :shock:. Still some noticeable blobs at 0.15. 0.1 looks pretty awesome. And 0.05 looks pretty good considering it the first ever I've done that low and could deff use some tweaking. (all done at 50m/s & 33% Infill)

[img]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2815/1097 ... 345c_o.jpg[/img]
User avatar
Av8r RC
Printmaster!
Posts: 94
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:09 am

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by Av8r RC »

626, in response to your thought of using threadlock to seal the threads. I would recommend against that. Heat is what you use to break down the threadlocker so you can unscrew it. Both Blue & Red start breaking down around 250C. There is a high temp one (272) that goes up to 450C, but you would need to heat it up to 500~550 for it to breakdown enough to disassemble it. I would just wrap the threads in one, maybe two layers of teflon tape.
User avatar
626Pilot
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 1716
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 12:52 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by 626Pilot »

Eaglezsoar wrote: What about using teflon tape on the threads?
Tried that when I first got it. Unfortunately it ruins the heat transfer. Prints would be OK for fifteen minutes and then they'd bomb, every time.
Av8r RC wrote:Almost every test I've done has been at a height of 0.3, since it's the worst there.
Ah... can't advise you there, I never print above 0.2. This is one of the reasons. The flow is too high.
bubbasnow
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 1061
Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2013 4:24 pm
Location: Dayton, WA

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by bubbasnow »

maybe get a torque wrench and start numerically increasing the value of torque to see if you can get it to stop leaking?
User avatar
Eaglezsoar
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 7159
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by Eaglezsoar »

bubbasnow wrote:maybe get a torque wrench and start numerically increasing the value of torque to see if you can get it to stop leaking?
If done carefully this might work but the part that connects the heat block to the fins is extremely fragile. There have been reports on this forum about
this part breaking while tightening. Perhaps E3D should provide torque specifications. I would like to use the magnetic arms and have a separate
effector with a J-Head hotend to be used only for PLA. With the magnetic arms it would take less than a minute or so to swap the effectors.
User avatar
lordbinky
Printmaster!
Posts: 744
Joined: Sat May 18, 2013 3:53 am
Location: Tri Cities Washington

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by lordbinky »

My accel is set to 2000 if I remember correctly, and I think the Jerk setting is back to 80 after clamping the rostock to the table (with a couple layers of cork board between the too). I get nice corners without blobbing. I run into retract problems with the high speeds though, specifically getting the priming just right and not starving the first couple of mm of the next layer. *sigh* I haven't been able to play with the printer recently. I must have attracted gremlins for so many things to require repairs all at once. Ok, some of them are my fault, but that's expected.
bubbasnow
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 1061
Joined: Fri Aug 02, 2013 4:24 pm
Location: Dayton, WA

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by bubbasnow »

anyone want to put some more ponies on their e3d cooling fins, this will allow for a 40mm fan to be attached. I upgraded to a fan with over 1 cfm improvement from the stock fan.

It comes in 3 parts, the main part will clamp around the fins with the shaped ends, this will get rid of the sliding stock style mount.

i did this in pla, actually got it to nylon temps without warping, but im printing in abs just in case.
[img]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-GXh6 ... 195709.jpg[/img]
Attachments
40mmfan2.STL
(23.32 KiB) Downloaded 387 times
40mmfan3.STL
(23.23 KiB) Downloaded 440 times
40mmfan1.STL
(378.21 KiB) Downloaded 392 times
User avatar
MSURunner
Printmaster!
Posts: 200
Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 1:28 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by MSURunner »

So, I think I have come up with a couple of options to use with this hotend to integrate well with fans for printing in PLA. I thought I'd submit them for your approval :)

Feedback appreciated!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199478
User avatar
626Pilot
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 1716
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 12:52 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by 626Pilot »

I don't see a fan shroud for the hot end. Is it supposed to work with the preexisting one? Also I don't see how this would print without loads of support.
cope413
Printmaster!
Posts: 446
Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2013 5:52 pm
Location: Orange County, CA
Contact:

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by cope413 »

looks like the hot end fan mounts to the side, but doesn't wrap around the coils like the existing one...
Fellow Philosophy majors unite!

"The proverbial achilles heel of property monistic epiphenomenalism is the apparent impossibility of ex-nihilo materialization of non-structural and qualitatively new causal powers."
User avatar
MSURunner
Printmaster!
Posts: 200
Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 1:28 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by MSURunner »

Correct, I've been printing for about twenty hours with it in PLA and haven't had any sort of plug. I probably should have thrown it up with the correct orientation for printing...
User avatar
626Pilot
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 1716
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 12:52 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by 626Pilot »

It looks like it has an overhang of about 60 degrees. How do you achieve that? I'm lucky to get 45.

Also, why three fans? You only need one. The air coming off the hot end is still useful for part cooling. I rigged up a low-tech "duct" using Kapton.
User avatar
MSURunner
Printmaster!
Posts: 200
Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 1:28 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by MSURunner »

626Pilot wrote:It looks like it has an overhang of about 60 degrees. How do you achieve that? I'm lucky to get 45.

Also, why three fans? You only need one. The air coming off the hot end is still useful for part cooling. I rigged up a low-tech "duct" using Kapton.
The second part cooling fan allows me to cool the part sufficiently enough to get those overhangs. The 2x40mm setup is much more printer friendly in terms of overhangs. Plus, the "bottom" of those overhangs is where the fan mounts up, so a little boogering of the finish is okay, it gets covered by the fans.
SanjayM
Printmaster!
Posts: 36
Joined: Tue May 21, 2013 3:51 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by SanjayM »

Sanjay from E3D here again!

So much going on here, lots of questions and lots of answers. Not a lot of time. I will come back and answer everthing once I have a moment. Just moved house, quit my job, gone full E3D, its been a crazy time.

Just wanted to let you all know that we are doing a 20% off everything sale - so hotends are only £35.20 right now, along with all sorts of other cool bits.

http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=common/home

I'm probably going to have to close the sale soon before we bankrupt ourselves and have no stock, so do get in now if you want in. The amount of orders the sale has produced has been beyond expectation.

Back tomorrow to comment on the other matters raised!
McSlappy
Printmaster!
Posts: 800
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:11 pm
Location: Queensland, Australia
Contact:

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by McSlappy »

A latecomer here... Just read this entire thread, all 22 pages of it! Great information. Given my desire to print PLA at stellar quality, I'm thinking I'll go ahead and dive in and get an e3d.
I just had one of the stock bowden tube fittings break (hot end jam, caused it to blow the tube out). I am considering getting a few extra of the ones that e3d supplies, but it doesn't mention the the connecting thread size. The stock ones use 5mm, is this the same size as the e3d ones?
I loved my Rostock so much I now sell them in Oz :)
McSlappy
Printmaster!
Posts: 800
Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2013 9:11 pm
Location: Queensland, Australia
Contact:

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by McSlappy »

Couldn't wait. Ordered one.
I loved my Rostock so much I now sell them in Oz :)
SanjayM
Printmaster!
Posts: 36
Joined: Tue May 21, 2013 3:51 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by SanjayM »

Sanjay from E3D here, the threaded couplers use a 1/8th BSPP thread which is a very common standard pneumatic fitting thread.
User avatar
Eaglezsoar
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 7159
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by Eaglezsoar »

SanjayM wrote:Sanjay from E3D here, the threaded couplers use a 1/8th BSPP thread which is a very common standard pneumatic fitting thread.
Most of the places in the States wanted $40+ for the tap but someone found one for $12 which I grabbed. McMaster Carr sells the taps for that price. If I can
figure out how to hold the 2 old version hotends I would like to drill them out and tap them for the couplers.
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
User avatar
626Pilot
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 1716
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 12:52 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by 626Pilot »

SanjayM wrote:Sanjay from E3D here, the threaded couplers use a 1/8th BSPP thread which is a very common standard pneumatic fitting thread.
I was looking at the photos of the hot end on your website and I realized that there may be some difficulty with creating a plastic mount. With the regular E3D there is a groove mount at the coolest part, but with the Kraken all I see are four holes at the corners of the waterblock.

Do you think it would be possible to create a printable mount and isolate it from the waterblock with phenolic spacers, or would it be necessary to create a mount out of wood or aluminum? I can do either. How do you envision a Kraken mount for the Rostock's effector platform? I was thinking of printable plastic frames for the top and bottom, held in place by screws and stood off from the metal by phenolic washers.
User avatar
MDMD
Printmaster!
Posts: 50
Joined: Tue Jul 02, 2013 10:59 pm
Location: CA

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by MDMD »

I got an e3d for Christmas and am hoping to get it set up in the next few days. What's the consensus on the best mount? I know 626pilot and MSUrunner both have great looking designs. I also have a tricklaser j-head slot mount sitting around. Where's the best place to start?
User avatar
626Pilot
ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
Posts: 1716
Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 12:52 pm

Re: E3D V4 All metal hotend

Post by 626Pilot »

The Trick Laser mount should work fine. If you want to use the nicer PTF connectors that come with a Bowden E3D, one of the J-head mounting plates would work. I based my design on the Trick Laser mount (which I also have) because I wanted to get away from using the stock PTF connectors, which are less reliable.
Post Reply

Return to “Rostock MAX”