The file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18271 owl by cushwa
The print by PartDaddy
- Big Owl Print on Rostock MAX
- owl face
- owl body
Some Statistics:
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SeeMeCNC's stock hot end that has been shipping since summer 2013
translucent orange PLA (from SeeMeCNC)
343mm tall
weight 1.6 pounds (0.73kg)
time 47.5 hours
Repetier 0.90C, Slic3r 0.9.10b
hot end temps set at 200C, but reported about 190C with fans on
bed temp set at 70C with only a little glue stick applied to 99% alcohol cleaned boro glass
Slic3r settings:
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'Print Settings':
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Layers and Perimeters:
layer height 0.24mm
first layer height 0.3mm
perimeters 3
randomize starting points unchecked
generate extra perimeters when needed CHECKED
solid layers 3 top and 3 bottom
avoid crossing perimeters unchecked
external perimeters first unchecked
spiral vase unchecked
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Infill
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fill density 0.07
fill pattern honeycomb
top bottom fill concentric
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speed
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perimeter thru bridges SET ALL TO 30mm/sec
gap fill 20
travel 200
first layer speed 14 (not 14%, but 14mm/s)
the rest of the settings are zero
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skirt
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set to one or two loops at 6mm from object to get filament flowing
min extrusion length zero
brim 0
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Advanced <----VERY IMPORTANT
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set all values in the 'Extrusion Width' box to 1.2 X your nozzle diameter. I used a 0.5mm nozzle, so 0.5 x 1.2 = 0.6
default extrusion width .6
first layer .6
etc.....
support material .6
bridge flow ratio 1
threads 4 (just for processing model)
resolution 0
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Filament Settings:
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Filament
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diameter 1.75mm
1.01 (you might want to print something at 1.0, adjust this to compensate for small or oversize filament)
Temp 200C
Bed 66 (I later set it to 70C while printing)
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Cooling
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Keep fan on checked (however, my fans are connected to 12VDC on whenever hot end is on)
enable auto cooling CHECKED
fan speed 100%
bridge fan 100%
diable fan for the first zero layers
enable fan if layer print time is below 60 sec
slow down if layer print time is below 15 sec
min print speed 4 mm/s
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Printer Settings
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General
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Bed size 270 x 270 (these are general machine definitions from setting up your machine)
print center 135 (the radius of your machine)
z offset 0
firmware is reprap marlin sprinter choice
use relative E distances unchecked
extruders 1
vibration limit 0
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custom G code
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starting gcode:
G28; home all
End gcode:
G92 E0; zero extruder
G91; incremental mode
G1 Z3 E-8 F5000; liner interpolate z positive 3mm and reverse filament 8mm
G90; absolute mode
G28; home all
M104 S0; turn off hot end heaters
M140 S0; turn off heated bed
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Extruder
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nozzle diameter .5
extruder offset 0 and 0
retraction length 7.0
lift z .8
speed 50
extra length on restart .1
minimum travel after retraction 8
retract on layer change unchecked
wipe before retract unchecked
retraction when finished 8mm
extra on restart 8mm
My hack was to cut an inserts out of 1/4" x .014" K&S aluminum tube, which just slides in the hole. Then use a grub set screw from a belt pulley, run it in the small side hole to mark the insert. Drill a small hole in the insert for the set screw to go through. Slide the resistor in, run the set screw up against the resistor to push it toward center (carefully!) just enough to hold it. Fill the ends with RTV. Let that sit. Pull the set screw out and inject that void with RTV. Wire it up! I can turn on my heated bed, set for 80C, wait for it to get to 75C, then turn on my hotend and it will get from room temp to 230C before my heated bed reaches temp. 
Oh and... 
