once perfect flat calibrated NOT NOW??

[wildideas1]

Ok still need help. . Machine was running perfect for 150hours Steve sent me the newer nozzle that is longer than the original so I decided to change the nozzle over after my last print which was the NOV challenge and was successful I posted results and configs.
The steps I took was the same as I always have done after a print . take off glass wash down re install. New change was to install the nozzle and I noticed that the unit was longer so the need to re-calibrate was in order easy to do. ( here in lies the issue) now that it is calibrated for the towers the center isn’t touching like it used to in the center so it appears that over 150hrs of use and off on cycling the glass now has a slight dip in it I think (nope glass is still flat using a straight edge), so I went to the onyx and there is a very slight dip in the middle not enough to get a piece of paper thru but I can see light. I remember in manual that it had something to the effect that chances are that you will need to use Arduino to modify the delta dip but I was the lottery winner and had perfectly flat and calibrated unit ( in the beginning) after looking thru the manual and found that if one didn't have a perfect build which I did have in the beginning the steps to take were on page 171 -173 but no explanation or pic to show how to get to the config.h and get it into the board. After 8hrs of searching thru the forum and asking anyone for help via PM I got connected to the board I have changed the printer radius from 198.25 to 198.8 .5 at a time and I still can’t get the center to grab the paper after calibrating each tower at what point is too much or when do I stop this attempt machine has not moved from where I have set it since build and I have triple triple checked all screws and such to make sure everything is till right and tight. anyone please way in on this.

thks
Ian

[Eaglezsoar]

Ok still need help. . Machine was running perfect for 150hours Steve sent me the newer nozzle that is longer than the original so I decided to change the nozzle over after my last print which was the NOV challenge and was successful I posted results and configs.
The steps I took was the same as I always have done after a print . take off glass wash down re install. New change was to install the nozzle and I noticed that the unit was longer so the need to re-calibrate was in order easy to do. ( here in lies the issue) now that it is calibrated for the towers the center isn’t touching like it used to in the center so it appears that over 150hrs of use and off on cycling the glass now has a slight dip in it I think (nope glass is still flat using a straight edge), so I went to the onyx and there is a very slight dip in the middle not enough to get a piece of paper thru but I can see light. I remember in manual that it had something to the effect that chances are that you will need to use Arduino to modify the delta dip but I was the lottery winner and had perfectly flat and calibrated unit ( in the beginning) after looking thru the manual and found that if one didn't have a perfect build which I did have in the beginning the steps to take were on page 171 -173 but no explanation or pic to show how to get to the config.h and get it into the board. After 8hrs of searching thru the forum and asking anyone for help via PM I got connected to the board I have changed the printer radius from 198.25 to 198.8 .5 at a time and I still can’t get the center to grab the paper after calibrating each tower at what point is too much or when do I stop this attempt machine has not moved from where I have set it since build and I have triple triple checked all screws and such to make sure everything is till right and tight. anyone please way in on this.

thks
Ian

Are you sure that you turned off the EEPROM as indicated in the manual? Does changing the radius have any effect at all?

[wildideas1]

yes eprom changed from 1 to 0 and uploaded. i did notice in the aurdrino that it said power cycle the board never did that last night so i re-traced steps this morning and power cycled and still in same position. im not sure how far to go but i cant understand that a gap less than a piece of paper can cause so much frustrations.

[Eaglezsoar]

yes eprom changed from 1 to 0 and uploaded. i did notice in the aurdrino that it said power cycle the board never did that last night so i re-traced steps this morning and power cycled and still in same position. im not sure how far to go but i cant understand that a gap less than a piece of paper can cause so much frustrations.

Read through this topic and see if it can benefit you in some way. It is a discussion that closely covers the problem you are having: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2283

[Lochemage]

It is, indeed, challenging to get the printer perfectly level. If everything was perfect before, and the towers were already calibrated before, when you change your nozzle all you should need to change is the printer height dimension (and axis lengths to match); You should not need to change any of the towers or the radius. As soon as you make changes to the towers, you'll end up needing to do a full on calibration again.

If the glass is perfectly flat, and the nozzle dips or raises in the center compared to the outer, then you need to calibrate your printer radius setting in the firmware. Unfortunately, changing the printer radius might raise or lower the center, but at the same time it also does the opposite to the perimeter. Some people will actually re-calibrate each of the towers again and then try the center again. However, my method is to change the printer height dimension until my already calibrated towers match up again, then check the center. There is no need to re-calibrate your tower endstops if you already know they are perfectly flat and level, at that point you can just raise or lower the printer height to move all three tower positions up or down by the same amount.

[Eaglezsoar]

It is, indeed, challenging to get the printer perfectly level. If everything was perfect before, and the towers were already calibrated before, when you change your nozzle all you should need to change is the printer height dimension (and axis lengths to match); You should not need to change any of the towers or the radius. As soon as you make changes to the towers, you'll end up needing to do a full on calibration again.

If the glass is perfectly flat, and the nozzle dips or raises in the center compared to the outer, then you need to calibrate your printer radius setting in the firmware. Unfortunately, changing the printer radius might raise or lower the center, but at the same time it also does the opposite to the perimeter. Some people will actually re-calibrate each of the towers again and then try the center again. However, my method is to change the printer height dimension until my already calibrated towers match up again, then check the center. There is no need to re-calibrate your tower endstops if you already know they are perfectly flat and level, at that point you can just raise or lower the printer height to move all three tower positions up or down by the same amount.

Do you change
#define X_MAX_LENGTH
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH
to raise or lower the height?

[wildideas1]

well it finally appears to be fixed went from 198.25 to 198.80 on printer radius to get the center to come up correctly now it is fine tweak time.
What i don't understand is what and why did the bed become slightly concave after 150hrs of print time, this probably helps explain why during the NOV challenge that i kept having stick problems and wasn't the lack of Hairspray but the bed having changed over the time of using it.

any comments

Also added new post on the newest rep update now missing Slicr in Slicr section
Ian

[Lochemage]

Do you change
#define X_MAX_LENGTH
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH
to raise or lower the height?

yes, although, I change the ones that are in the EEPROM, not the firmware. Also there is the height value in the printer settings under the dimensions tab that should be changed to match. In my case, and I don't know if this is just the Mac version, I have to click outside of the edit field boxes after I change the number before the changes are actually committed and used. If you home your machine, make sure the Z value matches what you have set as your height.

[Eaglezsoar]

Do you change
#define X_MAX_LENGTH
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH
to raise or lower the height?

yes, although, I change the ones that are in the EEPROM, not the firmware. Also there is the height value in the printer settings under the dimensions tab that should be changed to match. In my case, and I don't know if this is just the Mac version, I have to click outside of the edit field boxes after I change the number before the changes are actually committed and used. If you home your machine, make sure the Z value matches what you have set as your height.

Thanks for the tips, I keep a technical tips paper and I added your tips to the file.