E3D V4 All metal hotend

626Pilot · Post by **626Pilot** » Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:00 pm

You need only one cooling fan for the E3D. I run mine at 50% so it doesn't downwash too much onto the hot end and it works fine. The bottom (hottest) cooling fin should be a little above room temperature.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Thu Jan 09, 2014 9:53 pm

McSlappy wrote:My e3d hot end arrived 5 minutes ago!
Thanks to Sanjay for including some yummy haribo lollies!!

I'm excited to get it all running... Just as I was getting the stock hot end to run the way I wanted :/ (I will be posting my calibration journey on this soon.)

Also, Sanjay, I'm stoked that the hot end comes with a fan, since I was lamenting only ordering 2 extras - with the included 1 it gives me 3 identical so I'm happy!

Congratulations of getting the E3D, you are going to love what you can print now!

McSlappy · Post by **McSlappy** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 2:17 am

*626pilot - yeah I know it only needs one, but i'm planning on making a part cooling addon for PLA. Perhaps overkill but we shall see!!!!! MWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

*Eagle - I'm pretty stoked, though I dislike these hair-like thermistors intensely. They seem way too prone to failure and damage... I'm considering a thermocouple already and it's not even installed. Perhaps if there was a prettier and less fragile installation method for the thermistor... It'll be a little while before I swap them over (printing mounts etc) so I'll look around.

int2str · Post by **int2str** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 2:22 am

McSlappy wrote:I'm pretty stoked, though I dislike these hair-like thermistors intensely. They seem way too prone to failure and damage... I'm considering a thermocouple already and it's not even installed. Perhaps if there was a prettier and less fragile installation method for the thermistor... It'll be a little while before I swap them over (printing mounts etc) so I'll look around.

Zoom in to this picture:
http://ironcreek.net/photos/Hobby/3D%20 ... G_6101.JPG

That's how I did it on mine. The Kapton tape is only to hold the wires together, it's not holding the thermistor in. That's only held in by aluminum foil wedged into the hole. Very easy & clean installation.

Though I did order the threaded thermistors on eBay also and "practiced" installing it on the original hot-end. If the foil hadn't worked out as well as it did, the threaded thermistors are definitely the way to go (I think).

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 2:29 am

McSlappy wrote:*626pilot - yeah I know it only needs one, but i'm planning on making a part cooling addon for PLA. Perhaps overkill but we shall see!!!!! MWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!

*Eagle - I'm pretty stoked, though I dislike these hair-like thermistors intensely. They seem way too prone to failure and damage... I'm considering a thermocouple already and it's not even installed. Perhaps if there was a prettier and less fragile installation method for the thermistor... It'll be a little while before I swap them over (printing mounts etc) so I'll look around.

I used the threaded thermistors that they sell on Ebay. They do require you to drill and tap the hole, but IMHO they are worth the effort.

McSlappy · Post by **McSlappy** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 2:52 am

*int2str - yeah that looks pretty neat. Much neater than e3d were suggesting. Might do that if I can't get an m3 threaded one soon. Bah the remoteness of down under....

*eagle - there doesn't seem to be a lot of options. I don't really want to get the extra stuff to put a thermocouple on the board, so perhaps the screw type is the way to go.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 2:59 am

McSlappy wrote:*int2str - yeah that looks pretty neat. Much neater than e3d were suggesting. Might do that if I can't get an m3 threaded one soon. Bah the remoteness of down under....

*eagle - there doesn't seem to be a lot of options. I don't really want to get the extra stuff to put a thermocouple on the board, so perhaps the screw type is the way to go.

If you go the threaded route you will need an 2.5mm drill bit or the equivalent decimal bit and a 3mm tap to thread the hole.

McSlappy · Post by **McSlappy** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 3:43 am

I'm pretty sure my dad has a set of taps and appropriate drill bits... Better check

McSlappy · Post by **McSlappy** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 4:59 am

The install guide mentions wiring the fan so that when the hot-end is on, the fan is on also.

Any tips on doing this correctly?
Is there an elegant solution?

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 6:50 am

McSlappy wrote:The install guide mentions wiring the fan so that when the hot-end is on, the fan is on also.

Any tips on doing this correctly?
Is there an elegant solution?

I wired my Hotend cooling fan directly to 12V so when the printer is on, that fan is on. My logic is that the Hotend will be on 90 percent of the time when the printer is on so why not
just wire it into the 12V? If you want to wire the fan so that it is on when the hotend is on the assembly manual says this: Note, if you're using the firmware supplied by SeeMeCNC, it has been modified to turn on the HEAT1 output any time the hot end is hot. This means that you plug the fan into the Heat1 connector.

McSlappy · Post by **McSlappy** » Fri Jan 10, 2014 6:01 pm

So wire it to the 12v? Are you talking about the power block that connects the power supply to the board? I do like this option, there's no room for accidentally forgetting and with the e3d I'd rather no accidents.

I had wired the fan to the location mentioned by the firmware, but it didn't turn on when the hot-end was on, just when the print starting running. I wired it to fan0 and just control it with repetier... This has led to some blocked extruders when I forget to turn it on and am using PLA...

Since I'm installing the e3d, I am also adding a PLA layer cooling fan, and would like separate control over those. I was planning on putting the layer fan on fan0, and had hoped to put the extruder fan back on auto.... Wonder why it doesn't work.

Perhaps my firmware is incorrect.
Actually, on that subject, I found it pretty unclear (broken links within installation instructions, and some differing opinions on firmware) which was the correct firmware to be using. AFAIK i'm using repetier 0.8.

If you have any thoughts, please let me know, but submit them as a limerick or a haiku.

Post by **geneb** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 12:42 pm

McSlappy wrote: Actually, on that subject, I found it pretty unclear (broken links within installation instructions, and some differing opinions on firmware) which was the correct firmware to be using. AFAIK i'm using repetier 0.8.

Where are you seeing these broken links?

g.

626Pilot · Post by **626Pilot** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 7:52 pm

McSlappy wrote: If you have any thoughts, please let me know, but submit them as a limerick or a haiku.

With a Molex plug
Wire your fan to yellow/black
From the PSU

McSlappy · Post by **McSlappy** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 11:40 pm

geneb wrote:
McSlappy wrote: Actually, on that subject, I found it pretty unclear (broken links within installation instructions, and some differing opinions on firmware) which was the correct firmware to be using. AFAIK i'm using repetier 0.8.
Where are you seeing these broken links?

g.

Let me see if I can find them.

Page 152 of assembly guide. Points to https://github.com/seemecnc/RepetierMAX but it goes nowhere.

McSlappy · Post by **McSlappy** » Sat Jan 11, 2014 11:45 pm

626Pilot wrote:
McSlappy wrote: If you have any thoughts, please let me know, but submit them as a limerick or a haiku.
With a Molex plug
Wire your fan to yellow/black
From the PSU

Oh my god, you actually did it. And completely followable instructions!

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 6:43 am

We have talented users on this forum. They can even write limericks.

Post by **geneb** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:48 pm

McSlappy wrote:
geneb wrote:
McSlappy wrote: Actually, on that subject, I found it pretty unclear (broken links within installation instructions, and some differing opinions on firmware) which was the correct firmware to be using. AFAIK i'm using repetier 0.8.
Where are you seeing these broken links?

g.
Let me see if I can find them.

Page 152 of assembly guide. Points to https://github.com/seemecnc/RepetierMAX but it goes nowhere.

Fixed!

g.

McSlappy · Post by **McSlappy** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:03 pm

Awesome! If I had known earlier that the guide was your doing, I would have messaged. Cheers for fixing it! I'll re download and make sure I'm running it correctly.

Actually since moving the fan, I've discovered that it doesn't run properly below 30% speed, perhaps that's why it would only turn on when printing actually began? Does my memory serve me correctly in thinking that it's set to 25% somewhere?

626Pilot · Post by **626Pilot** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:17 pm

McSlappy wrote:
626Pilot wrote:
McSlappy wrote: If you have any thoughts, please let me know, but submit them as a limerick or a haiku.
With a Molex plug
Wire your fan to yellow/black
From the PSU
Oh my god, you actually did it. And completely followable instructions!

I got this squirrel cage fan: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005 ... UTF8&psc=1

It sits in the bottom of the printer blowing air across the RAMBo, and I hooked up my wiring harness to the free yellow and black wires so I'd have 12V whenever it's turned on. It drives an LED ring and cooling fan. Hot end fan is still under software control because my setup requires it to run at 50%.

McSlappy · Post by **McSlappy** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 10:19 pm

Interesting! I have been printing out your e3d mount lately too. Though I'll probablyl reprint it once I get the e3d installed... Or I'll have to do some more ABS calibration with this head... Seems like a waste if I'm about to replace it :/

MSURunner · Post by **MSURunner** » Mon Jan 13, 2014 1:08 pm

626Pilot wrote: It sits in the bottom of the printer blowing air across the RAMBo, and I hooked up my wiring harness to the free yellow and black wires so I'd have 12V whenever it's turned on. It drives an LED ring and cooling fan. Hot end fan is still under software control because my setup requires it to run at 50%.

I was going to ask how the RAMBO does when the doors are closed on the forum, but it sounds as though my suspicion of it "overheating" and causing issues is not unfounded. I have a 50 mm hooked up to the back door and wired to the 12v output on the board now. Blew a brick fuse, so I'm not able to test the theory. 10A fuses should be here Wednesday, though, and the Onyx hopefully today, so here's to hoping the changes work!

Toyguy · Post by **Toyguy** » Mon Jan 13, 2014 10:51 pm

I run my MAX with all the doors closed and I've printed for near 14 hours with no issues at all. I may just be lucky and have an exceptionally robust Rambo, but so far, so good. I have been considering sticking a small fan in anyway, but that's a preventative measure for the long term.

626Pilot · Post by **626Pilot** » Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:31 pm

MSURunner wrote: I was going to ask how the RAMBO does when the doors are closed on the forum, but it sounds as though my suspicion of it "overheating" and causing issues is not unfounded. I have a 50 mm hooked up to the back door and wired to the 12v output on the board now. Blew a brick fuse, so I'm not able to test the theory. 10A fuses should be here Wednesday, though, and the Onyx hopefully today, so here's to hoping the changes work!

I taped off the hole in the center of the bottom plate so it wouldn't updraft all over the Onyx. It runs with the doors closed, but these things aren't exactly sealed.

gestalt73 · Post by **gestalt73** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 6:19 pm

So, in the documentation they call the included thermister a "EPCOS B57560G104F".

When you installed your E3D, did you leave the firmware with a type of 97? or did you switch it to 1?

Code: Select all

// What type of sensor is used?
// 1 is 100k thermistor (Epcos B57560G0107F000 - RepRap-Fab.org and many other)
// 2 is 200k thermistor
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (EPCOS G550)
// 4 is 10k thermistor
// 5 is userdefined thermistor table 0
// 6 is userdefined thermistor table 1
// 7 is userdefined thermistor table 2
// 50 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 51 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 52 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 97 Generic thermistor table 1
// 98 Generic thermistor table 2
// 99 Generic thermistor table 3
// 100 is AD595
// 101 is MAX6675
#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 97

bubbasnow · Post by **bubbasnow** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 6:31 pm

gestalt73 wrote:So, in the documentation they call the included thermister a "EPCOS B57560G104F".

When you installed your E3D, did you leave the firmware with a type of 97? or did you switch it to 1?

Code: Select all

// What type of sensor is used?
// 1 is 100k thermistor (Epcos B57560G0107F000 - RepRap-Fab.org and many other)
// 2 is 200k thermistor
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (EPCOS G550)
// 4 is 10k thermistor
// 5 is userdefined thermistor table 0
// 6 is userdefined thermistor table 1
// 7 is userdefined thermistor table 2
// 50 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 51 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 52 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 97 Generic thermistor table 1
// 98 Generic thermistor table 2
// 99 Generic thermistor table 3
// 100 is AD595
// 101 is MAX6675
#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 97

YUP!

Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

E3D V4 All metal hotend

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