Nylon Warpage

[Nylocke]

Ive been trying to print with Nylon lately, and Ive tried it: on blue painters tape on an acrylic sheet, on a heated bed with glass and elmers glue at 90 and 105 (90 worked for small things, but 105 discolored the nylon and didn't stop the warping), on felt on the same acrylic sheet as the painters tape, and I also tried it on some aerosol spray elmers glue, but I ran out of my first coil of nylon so I wasn't able to determine the effectiveness of it.

The blue painters tape didn't work at all, the nylon either peeled off of it, or peeled the tape off of the acrylic. The heated bed and glass with elmers worked for some small parts at 90 or 95, but when I did my 5 inch by 1.5 inch by 1 inch part, it warped to hell, though the top 1/4 inch turned out fine, but the part was over all unusable and not up to my standards. I then tried some sticky back felt that I got at Michael's, and the Nylon stuck very well to it, but I think the heat from it (extruding at 285) ruined the adhesive and the nylon tore the felt off of the acrylic. I then tried some aerosol spray adhesive from elmers and it seemed like it might work, but the coil I was using ran short and I wasn't able to finish testing (heated bed at 90).

I really would prefer to not waste more material, its not particularly expensive, but it still costs money. I would like to try the felt on something else, maybe a piece of plywood, but it will be a while until I can get a sheet laser cut out, and I really need to get this going today or tomorrow. I tried to find some UHU glue at my Staples and Michaels, but they don't carry it locally either place. Any help would be appreciated greatly.

[bubbasnow]

For the Elmer glue I think taulman recommend 80c apply glue let cool print at 55 then 80 to remove

[Nylocke]

So I apply the glue, heat up to 55, and then go to 80c to remove?

[bubbasnow]

Take it up to 80 and apply then cool to 55. Print your file and when it's finished take Back up to 80 to remove. Sorry I'm in my phone so I talk quick and with little finesse.

[Nylocke]

Ok, ill try it out, thanks for the suggestion.

[Nylocke]

It didn't really help much, with the changed settings it started warping pretty fast, I did a brim and it helped enough to get it to be an acceptable part, but it still is lacking. further help would be greatly appreciated

[Nylocke]

Keep in mind that this isn't taulman, this is ACE brand natural nylon weed trimmer line.

[Eaglezsoar]

Keep in mind that this isn't taulman, this is ACE brand natural nylon weed trimmer line.

See this topic : http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... llplastics

[Nylocke]

I passed the scotch over so many times... So thats what the great Taylor uses Thanks Carl, I'll get some today and hopefully that will help, Its imperative that these cones that I have to get printed don't warp, the life of my FTC team's robot depends on it

[MSURunner]

Wood is seriously the best thing I've found for getting nylon to stick. You could probably run down to your school's wood shop and have the teacher cut a piece of 1/4 plywood in a 11.8" circle pretty easily.

[Nylocke]

This isn't a MAX though, it's an ultimaker I'll get one cut out of 1/4 inch next time I'm at the place I get my stuff laser cut and try that. I was going to try it but I got more worried about the heated bed I got, fancy MKIIb Dual Power bed the scotch wrinkle free worked pretty well though.

[cope413]

garolite is ideal, but I've really had no need for anything more than the scotch glue and 70-80C on the bed. I've had 2 prints that I needed to add a .20mm thick, 5mm wide brim, but those had small/awkward footprints.

The brim is great, and it peels off very easily when still warm, or slices off simply with a sharp exacto if cooled.

[MSURunner]

Oh even quicker then! That should take someone with a table saw about 2 minutes to cut a rectangle for the UM.

BTW, have you gotten your Pico yet?

[Nylocke]

The problem is the holes to mount it though MSU. The Picos are coming in March, I'm getting 2, pretty excited for em Cope, do you use the wrinkle free scotch? That's what I found at target, though staples had more selection. I've been printing with a brim 100% of the time lately. I printed part of the "lightsaber" assembly for my FTC teams robot, it was a cone, virtually no warpage, and the support came out nicely (there is a ledge on the inside that required support) I'll post pictures of the full assembly and it in use some time.

[MSURunner]

The problem is the holes to mount it though MSU. The Picos are coming in March, I'm getting 2, pretty excited for em .

Are you trying to have that mounted with the slots similar to UM original platform? I would have envisioned binder clipping it to the hotbed where the only thing you would need to have holes for would be access to the mounting hardware for the PCB for leveling. Regardless, post some pics when you are done, I'm about to hack up my UM to get the heated bed too. You'll have to let me know how the Picos do with PLA. I haven't had any trouble with my E3D with PLA, but I'm also active cooling it. You could easily do that with the Picos and some CAD work, but if they have a small enough heat chamber to alleviate creep, I'll grab a couple to play with!

[cope413]

No, I'm using the Scotch "Permanent"...

[Nylocke]

Darn cope, I'll get some tonight. MSU, I'll post pics of my set up with my heated bed, I loose 10mm (heated bed is only 200x200) but it's still plenty big for most prints. The dual Picos I plan on making a custom mount to preserve as much x,y, and z space as possible. I will have a 40 mm fan mount (standard fan that comes with them) for active cooling of the fins, I never run my E3d without it. I haven't had time to start designing it yet, Robotics is taking up all my design and printing time.