Mhackney's Rostock Max

cope413 · Post by **cope413** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:09 pm

I had that same issue with Blue Hawk tape. Definitely annoying.

I switched to 3M and haven't had it since. I also noticed that heating the bed, even to 40C, can cause it to bond more to the tape.

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:24 pm

I'm using the 3M and that's what I've always used. This roll is definitely sticking more than any of the other (5 or so) rolls I've used in the past. I print at RT on the tape and even then this roll won't let go!

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 3:27 pm

Oh, and I started a thread in Tips about printing on common copier paper! This stuff has been working amazingly well. The perfect amount of stick and an excellent semi-gloss finish. I've printed about 100 parts on paper over the weekend with "0" failures. I get failures on everything else folks have recommended that I've tried.

dbarrans · Post by **dbarrans** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:20 pm

Michael, I tried again this weekend with a #27 bit. Got a hole drilled, then succeeded only in dulling the taper tap you suggested. Oh well. I decided to abandon the idea of tapping the holes, and drilled 12 balls with a #25 bit. Seems to be just about the right size to let me press-fit some 8-32 studs into the holes with a dab of JB Weld. That's my plan. Until it changes again.

- dan

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Mon Jan 27, 2014 8:23 pm

That should work just fine. The studs pressed into the holes will prevent shearing the ball off the post if it was just glued on.

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 5:40 pm

I'm a color weenie, I love colors of all sorts. So I couldn't resist when I saw these great PLA filaments:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v1 ... 2671-4.jpg[/img]

The bottom two are especially nice.

cheers,
Michael

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 5:44 pm

I agree on the bottom two, those are really nice. Could you tell us where you got them?

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:12 pm

From the top down:

Real KBell Engineering on eBay eBay:
Green

faveprices on eBay:
Yellow
Turquoise
Sea Green
Wine Red

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:29 pm

mhackney wrote:From the top down:

Real KBell Engineering on eBay eBay:
Green

faveprices on eBay:
Yellow
Turquoise
Sea Green
Wine Red

The faveprices on Ebay have some nice colors like the wine red. Could you let us know your opinion on quality when you get a chance to try a spool from them?
Definitely interested!

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 6:32 pm

Will do. I am printing right now with the green (Real KBell) and it is printing very nicely indeed.

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:17 am

Thought I'd show my setup for mounting the E3D and other hot ends using my quick change system and how it works.

Basically, I use 1/2" long male-female standoffs. These can be added or removed to create different lengths for mounting. For instance, the stock hot end only needs 1" for the mount. This is perfect since a 25mm fan fits nicely between the top and bottom (effector) mounts, and it can be easily removed when changing hot ends.

The E3D has a fan and shroud that must flow air over the cooling fins. This requires either extending them below the effector or increasing the distance between the effector and the mounting plate on top. Extending below loses Z travel. Simply by adding a third 1/2" standoff to my system, I increase the mounting distance exactly enough to install the E3D. Here it is:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v9 ... 8690-4.jpg[/img]

I also created a new mount for the E3D that screws the two parts together so when I install/remove the E3D from my machine, I don't have to mess with loose mounting parts. You can see that better here (the white parts):

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v13 ... 5428-4.jpg[/img]

I use the same cabling connectors on my hot ends (from allelectronics.com) so change outs are a snap.

A couple of points on the E3D. I understand that the earlier version 4 might have had some issues with printing PLA. This is the newer version 5. I can say this thing rocks with PLA! No ooze, no clogs, nice beads. You can't ask for anything more. And it prints ABS, Nylon Laywood, T-Glase and everything else I've thrown at it. That very short hot zone with a sharp cutoff cold zone makes all the difference. And, it heats up really, really fast since there is not a lot of mass to heat.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:47 am

You knew this one was coming. Are you going to post your mount on Thingiverse?
Very clean install, looks great.

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:58 am

Yes, I'll do that later today.

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 12:36 pm

mhackney wrote:Yes, I'll do that later today.

One other question then I'll quit bothering you. The screw size on the standoffs are probably #6 but could you tell me what the hex size is for the top ones?
By the way, all the things that you create benefit a lot of people and it is appreciated.

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 12:46 pm

You'll never quit "bothering" me Eagle! (and please don't!)

They are a #6. The hex is 1/4". I got these at McMaster Carr.

However, the screw/male section is not long enough to mount to the effector. So, for the base pieces (they are 3/8" simply because I had them) use female-female x 1/2" long standoffs and use a longer screw to mount to the effector.

I've also uploaded the mount to Thingiverse.

int2str · Post by **int2str** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:10 pm

Nice mount.

Do the inner screws thread into the plastic?
If yes, is that strong enough in your opinion?

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:12 pm

Thanks, and yes they do, I used a self threading screw (4-40). I also printed with 3 perimeters to make sure there was enough plastic to get good strength. You can't rip these apart!

cope413 · Post by **cope413** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:40 pm

It appears that the fan doesn't cover the bottom fin on the heatsink of your E3D...

They recommend the fan be lined up with that bottom fin, but I have a feeling it's not necessary. Can you verify?

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:48 pm

I have it covered cope413, I warmed and bent the lower part of the fan shroud to deflect air down over the lowest fin. I took lots of temperature measurements with my probe and the cool zone is indeed cool.

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:50 pm

Forgot to mention, a couple of #6 washers on the top of each of the 3 standoffs lifts the entire hot end enough so the fan can go down past the lowest fin. So if anyone is concerned about cooling, it's easy to adjust. I have about 30 hours of printing on it all PLA (and 8 different PLAs to boot) and have had "0" issues. I really like this hot end.

Post by **geneb** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:43 pm

What scares me is that you're using the exact same thumb screw and nearly the same connector I used for my quick-change mount.

g.

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:46 pm

Great minds think alike!

I started using these connectors back in the H-1 days. I ordered a bunch of them for various projects. I really like them, positive lock, light weight, etc.

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:31 pm

This is cross posted from the thread I started earlier this week on printing PLA on paper. I thought it was important enough to capture here too. Read on, faithful reader...

Ok, the spray adhesive came in:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v12 ... 8142-3.jpg[/img]

and I've had a chance to test it!

This is definitely the way to go for printing PLA and getting an awesome non-glossy surface finish. A very light spray on one side of the paper, let it dry for about 1 minute (30 seconds but just to be sure...) and then stick to your pre-warmed glass (60°C for me). No extra tape needed. You can see above I'm printing on typing paper with nothing else holding it down. The paper will not lift with printing forces. The parts usually pop off like I see with taped paper. But, sometimes they do stick a little too well - this seems to be function of Z height and "hot bed equilibrium" - it takes a while for everything to heat up and stabilize. But, even if parts do stick, you just peel the paper off, drop the whole shebang in cool water and the parts come off with no warping or residue! The paper peels cleanly off the glass and does not leave any residue on the glass at all - that's why I like this type of adhesive.

Now for the down side, read this:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v79 ... 2409-3.jpg[/img]

This stuff is very flammable and should not get anywhere close to your printer - especially the hot end or heated bed. Do not spray on the heated glass, do not even spray close to the printer. I got an old cardboard box - 12" x 12" - and cut down the sides so it is about 4" deep. I put the paper in there and spray. This can has a specially designed nozzle that delivers a lot LESS adhesive and is very easy to prevent over spray. So, it is easy to apply. Let it dry for a minute then pick up and apply to heated glass. It goes down nice and flat and stays there, even for tall skinny prints the parts do not wobble like I've observed with paper taped around the edges.

I've printed about 30 parts using this adhesive yesterday and today and have had ZERO failures - no lifted corners, no warps, no bad first layers. It really doesn't get any better than that!

Cheers,
Michael

mhackney · Post by **mhackney** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 12:05 pm

Eagle, from a couple of days ago regarding the cool PLA colors I got. I have now printed with the wine red and turquoise and very happy to report that they print very well indeed. The colors are awesome. That red is a nice deep and translucent wine. I really like it.\

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v13 ... 8308-3.jpg[/img]

Eaglezsoar wrote:
mhackney wrote:From the top down:

Real KBell Engineering on eBay eBay:
Green

faveprices on eBay:
Yellow
Turquoise
Sea Green
Wine Red
The faveprices on Ebay have some nice colors like the wine red. Could you let us know your opinion on quality when you get a chance to try a spool from them?
Definitely interested!

Post by **Eaglezsoar** » Sat Feb 01, 2014 1:05 pm

I like that color a lot. That is on my to get list. Thanks for the pictures.

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Mhackney's Rostock Max

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E3D mount

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Printing PLA on paper

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