convince me to buy one.

[PartDaddy]

________________
ORION MAX LIMITS

If you program the machine to move outside of the limits, all you have to watch for is arm interference. There's very little chance you'll burn up a motor or break it. We spec a 6" circle because it's easy to understand. Here's the max area STL, but watch out, the 25mm fan shroud and arm will hit! That will crack the fan shroud (of course just print another one). I just whipped this up and printed a single wall (and chewed up my fan shroud a little when the arm hit it). I could have cut the shroud with a utility knife.

ORINO MAX LIMITS.STL

ORION MAX LIMIT STL FAN ARM CRASH

(6.33 KiB) Downloaded 366 times

Manually drag it in Repetier so the straight edges are tangent to the circle. Click the 'drop' button to make sure the model is on the bed (not auto position). Say 'no' to stop slicing. If it doesn't want to slice, change your printer radius to 150mm in 'printer settings' in Repetier.

Here's a couple pics to help visualize the interference of things....

ORION Bed Dia and Print Circle

ORION Max Limits Interference

Is it advisable. Meh. Use your judgement here... with a stock setup, I really don't believe it's possible to burn up a motor or break anything. You might (10% chance) break an arm or chew up a timing belt, but I doubt it. My parts are incredibly tough. That's what I want. I don't like buying something that doesn't last. I don't like selling something that doesn't last. The arms will just pop off or stall the motor. If a motor failed, I'll bet it wasn't a stock setup. And unless there's a defect (which we've have seen 1 in 10000, which is impressive), the motor will not fail on a stock setup. Post a link for me and I'll investigate.

[jmpreuss]

With that fan mount I found the biggest issue on large prints is hitting the clips holding the glass plate on.

[PartDaddy]

The 25mm hot end cooling fan and arm interfere.

Yes, my drawing still shows the older part cooling fan. We put on a really nice 30mm blower for the part cooling fan. Here's the mount: http://repables.com/r/171/ and here's the blower http://seemecnc.com/products/30mm-x-10mm-blower-fan

[geneb]

I'll also note that nobody has burned up a motor exceeding a travel limit.

g.

[int2str]

I have an ORION and accidentally used the calibration commands from the Rostock assembly manual. Namely "G0 Z0 X0 Y90...". This works without problems on my printer, along with the other 2 commands that position the head at the same location near the other two towers.

So in other words, 180mm (~7in) build diameter seems to work fine.

Note that the headed bed will probably be rather cold at that point. So printing ABS that big would probably not work.

[TFMike]

Note that the headed bed will probably be rather cold at that point. So printing ABS that big would probably not work.

Just printed something that was over 180mm in length at its longest point, in ABS, it wasn't pretty but I found a way to get it to stick, because like you said the bed temperature was an issue. So I sprayed Loctite onto the glass plate, then stuck resume paper (25% cotton, 100% cotton might be better) onto it, then sprayed the resume paper again, was super sticky. The whole process wasn't pretty but it worked out in the end.

[PartDaddy]

I designed the ORION HB for a 7 inch diameter print area. A future design of the carriage will allow an additional inch (25mm) of diameter without any modification to the machine.

The spiral heating trace has a variable pitch. In other words, starting at the center, the adjacent trace gets closer as it spirals toward the outside. This helps even the temperature across the bed. The trace covers the 7 inch diameter area. Rev 3 will further improve the heat spread.

[TFMike]

I designed the ORION HB for a 7 inch diameter print area. A future design of the carriage will allow an additional inch (25mm) of diameter without any modification to the machine.

more info on this please!

[jmpreuss]

Yes, my drawing still shows the older part cooling fan. We put on a really nice 30mm blower for the part cooling fan. Here's the mount: http://repables.com/r/171/ and here's the blower http://seemecnc.com/products/30mm-x-10mm-blower-fan

I've purchased the new fans, just need some time to install them.

[printer999]

got my printer and have done a few prints. I had a perfect 1st print. I have found that prints done by the SD card come out much better than with computer and also I am using PLA. Why is the fan in such a odd position? Also What is fan.gcode used for? I printed it and have no idea.

[bubbasnow]

got my printer and have done a few prints. I had a perfect 1st print. I have found that prints done by the SD card come out much better than with computer and also I am using PLA. Why is the fan in such a odd position? Also What is fan.gcode used for? I printed it and have no idea.

its the 20mm fan mount for the peek cooling. it should be already installed on your machine from the factory

[artexmg]

The 25mm hot end cooling fan and arm interfere.

Yes, my drawing still shows the older part cooling fan. We put on a really nice 30mm blower for the part cooling fan. Here's the mount: http://repables.com/r/171/ and here's the blower http://seemecnc.com/products/30mm-x-10mm-blower-fan

Quick question:
I had been using exactly the two of the "older part cooling fan" in my V1 for a while now, they work very well!.

Now, I just got a V2 kit, so, should I mount the 30mm blower instead? how many, only one? or two like the "25 mm fan?" should I upgrade my V1 as well?

Thanks!
PS .... still waiting on the upgrade kit for V1!!!!!!!!

[artexmg]

The 25mm hot end cooling fan and arm interfere.

Yes, my drawing still shows the older part cooling fan. We put on a really nice 30mm blower for the part cooling fan. Here's the mount: http://repables.com/r/171/ and here's the blower http://seemecnc.com/products/30mm-x-10mm-blower-fan

Quick question:
I had been using exactly the two of the "older part cooling fan" in my V1 for a while now, they work very well!.

Now, I just got a V2 kit, so, should I mount the 30mm blower instead? how many, only one? or two like the "25 mm fan?" should I upgrade my V1 as well?

Thanks!
PS .... still waiting on the upgrade kit for V1!!!!!!!!

BTW, related to this topic, I consistently print outside of the 11" diameter of my Rostock Max, IF the longest points are placed close to the towers. Otherwise, the cheapskate "falls" and hit the base.

Cheers!

[artexmg]

The 25mm hot end cooling fan and arm interfere.

Yes, my drawing still shows the older part cooling fan. We put on a really nice 30mm blower for the part cooling fan. Here's the mount: http://repables.com/r/171/ and here's the blower http://seemecnc.com/products/30mm-x-10mm-blower-fan

Quick question:
I had been using exactly the two of the "older part cooling fan" in my V1 for a while now, they work very well!.

Now, I just got a V2 kit, so, should I mount the 30mm blower instead? how many, only one? or two like the "25 mm fan?" should I upgrade my V1 as well?

Thanks!
PS .... still waiting on the upgrade kit for V1!!!!!!!!

OOOOOOPS!

Just reading the building manual V2, and got my answer

Well, still, one blower would be enough? or mounting 2 is the best config?

Cheers!

[Generic Default]

I own a Rostock, not an Orion, but anyone who is considering buying a printer just keep in mind how easy it is to modify your printer. Just print out the parts with whatever geometry you want, then upgrade the machine with parts it made for itself.

Everything else can be bought at hardware stores; I upgraded my Rostock with longer, magnetic ball arms and dual extruders and a bunch of other stuff. The delta printer design has a lot of potential!