My first Nylon fail!

[cope413]

NaOH = lye

No need to get rh% that low. If the volume of your sealed container is no more than a 5g bucket, then 15-30% (depending on your filament and its starting moisture content) is adequate to maintain dry filament.

I wouldn't mess with it. Really not worth the hassle/risk.

[cope413]

As a side note with some relevance, I did have a chem professor in college who gave us a titration challenge. If any of the lab groups could titrate some solution we were working with more accurately than he could, then he would drink the solution he prepared of 12 molar hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide. If mixed correctly, nothing more than salt water. If not, either some really strong acid or base was going down the pipe...

To my knowledge no one ever bested him during my college career, but we tried harder in that lab than any other, that's for sure.

[Eaglezsoar]

As a side note with some relevance, I did have a chem professor in college who gave us a titration challenge. If any of the lab groups could titrate some solution we were working with more accurately than he could, then he would drink the solution he prepared of 12 molar hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide. If mixed correctly, nothing more than salt water. If not, either some really strong acid or base was going down the pipe...

To my knowledge no one ever bested him during my college career, but we tried harder in that lab than any other, that's for sure.

Is this the chemical that will burn your skin?

[cope413]

Both would be quite unpleasant and would cause serious tissue damage, but sodium hydroxide is commonly known as lye and is fairly easily procured.

12M HCl is tough to get without a license/legitimate reason for use

[Eric]

Molars are a measure of concentration. 12 Molar HCl is a very concentrated grade, rarely seen outside of a lab. Industrial concentrations are nearly that high for transport, but usually diluted before use. Also known as Muriatic acid, and at much lower concentrations in various home cleaning fluids. Yes, quite caustic.

[0rionN00b]

Had to adjust my pressure down to 12psi...

It lasted a few sessions at 20, but eventually the lid popped off - couldn't handle the pressure. Had to replace it because it bent the tabs on the lid and it won't seal well anymore.


A couple observations from my drying trials...

1) While it may take 18 hours to fully saturate with moisture, 3-4 hours in 40-50% humidity is enough to negatively affect print quality

2) Well dried filament is smaller (duh) than wet filament - I had to adjust my flow rate up a bit to correct for it.


I'm in love with this nylon. It's awesome stuff.

ya know.....

Get a 5 gal HomeDepot bucket, put the bulb in it, 3d print a spool stand to go in it, drill a tiny hole in it for the nylon to come out of...
now you've got a continuous run de-humidifier.....

You're welcome....

My only engineering fee is a copy of the .stl for the stand when it's done...

[Gr8Scott]

Quick question.

If one uses the 100W bulb in a 5 gallon bucket idea, would they need to leave the bulb burning all the time to have a relatively ready supply of dry filament? Assuming a decent quality seal in the bucket arrangement, how long would one need to run the bulb before achieving 15% or so RH throughout the spool?

Has anyone ever thought about using a largish 49 qt Igloo Marine cooler to effectively do the same job as the bucket? Would that trap too much heat or not contend with the amount of heat well enough? One could make a couple of spiffy filament holders to fit the squared-off internals to boot.

I converted one of these coolers for my Nomiku immersion circulator. I went from being able to use a 5 gallon bucket to roughly 20 gallons with that one addition. It turns out to be a very efficient setup once you get it to operating temp as well. I can cook enough protein to feed a small army now and I can cook whole sections of beef (sliced to individual portions) for up to 72 hours (not that I'd want to go that long) and still have everything at a perfect medium rare when I get done. If you have never had a 24 hour skirt steak or flat iron steak at medium rare, you are missing out big-time.

[Eric]

Quick question.

If one uses the 100W bulb in a 5 gallon bucket idea, would they need to leave the bulb burning all the time to have a relatively ready supply of dry filament? Assuming a decent quality seal in the bucket arrangement, how long would one need to run the bulb before achieving 15% or so RH throughout the spool?

Has anyone ever thought about using a largish 49 qt Igloo Marine cooler to effectively do the same job as the bucket? Would that trap too much heat or not contend with the amount of heat well enough? One could make a couple of spiffy filament holders to fit the squared-off internals to boot.

I converted one of these coolers for my Nomiku immersion circulator. I went from being able to use a 5 gallon bucket to roughly 20 gallons with that one addition. It turns out to be a very efficient setup once you get it to operating temp as well. I can cook enough protein to feed a small army now and I can cook whole sections of beef (sliced to individual portions) for up to 72 hours (not that I'd want to go that long) and still have everything at a perfect medium rare when I get done. If you have never had a 24 hour skirt steak or flat iron steak at medium rare, you are missing out big-time.

100W is clearly way too much heat. Earlier in this thread, Cope said even 40W in a bucket was starting to melt filament, but 25W seemed to work.

Sure, coolers are just a different shaped bucket for this purpose. Probably better insulated than buckets, so you'd have to experiment on heat sources or install a reliable thermostat.

Don't forget the desiccant/rice to trap the moisture that has no way out of the bucket, or it's not going to work.

[Gr8Scott]

For dessicant, I tend to use clay cat litter that has been baked in an oven for a while at 250 or so. It's cheap and plentiful and I can dry it out by throwing it in the oven again whenever I want.

[Dreyfusduke]

Best way to dry?..... get this and their small heater that sticks on the bottom.


http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/1_6gvackit.html

dry in less than an hour.

[geneb]

That's pretty slick.

How long does it take without the heater?

g.

[bot]

Best way to dry?..... get this and their small heater that sticks on the bottom.


http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/1_6gvackit.html

dry in less than an hour.

In this thread ( http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 667#p50667 ) You're saying how pumps like this are garbage. It's literally the same pump with different coloured plastic (and possibly slightly different internals... but clearly the same manufacturer).

Do you think this one you linked to would last long?

[Eaglezsoar]

Best way to dry?..... get this and their small heater that sticks on the bottom.


http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/1_6gvackit.html

dry in less than an hour.

I have been all over their site but could not find the heaters.
Could you tell me where the heaters are on that site?

[barry99705]

Best way to dry?..... get this and their small heater that sticks on the bottom.


http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/1_6gvackit.html

dry in less than an hour.

I have been all over their site but could not find the heaters.
Could you tell me where the heaters are on that site?

[img]http://www.bestvaluevacs.com/images/IMG_2746.JPG[/img]

The picture is on the home page, have to call about them though. Looks like a standard 110v silicone heating pad. I've got a couple of them glued to the bottom of my Element, at least there used to be. Not had to use them since moving to Ohio.