Kraken thread

[mhackney]

Hmm, if I rotate the Kraken so a short edge is aligned with X, it clears the effector holes a little better:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v1 ... 3521-4.jpg[/img]

[dpmacri]

Is there room for the PTF connectors to go through the effector and screw into the Kraken? When I did my dual-mount adapter, the fit was *very* tight

[mhackney]

Yes, the PTF connectors are drawn to scale so you can see that they clear the inner ring of the effector. The Kraken is *very* compact.

[Eaglezsoar]

Great ideas already! If it is placed on top of the effector the push connectors would not have to go through the effector.

[mhackney]

True but then I would have to remove the posts from the effector. I want to be able to plug and play with my E3D mount. But, I think the same adapter could just be turned upside down and put on top! We'll see, I have one printing now.

[neurascenic]

Great ideas already! If it is placed on top of the effector the push connectors would not have to go through the effector.

Would the nozzles extend down far enough to clear the effector?

[mhackney]

Ah, in looking at it again, the heater blocks/nozzles would not fit through the effector hole. But a new effector design cut in aluminum so it would only need to be 2mm thick would allow that and the adapter ring would not be needed. But, I want to go down this path for a bit since I can print the parts and not muck with the mechanics of my printer too much.

[DavidF]

Looks like there is enough meat on the krakens main water cooled body to chuck up in a lathe and trim the corners off to make it fit thru the stock effector..

[mhackney]

Yes, there seems to be but the mounting holes would be cut off. Once I have it mounted up, etc might be worth playing with that and maybe good feedback to E3D for a product change to fit deltas.

[DavidF]

You wouldn't need to turn the whole height of it, just maybe 1/2" off the bottom. That way you could drop it thru the stock effector and install the nozzles from underneath.
That way you could keep the bolt holes on top for mounting....
I'm just thinking out loud here.... I have to admit I'm really interested in this mod once I see how you gunea pigs make out

[mhackney]

Mark 1 Kraken Konnector:

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v1 ... 5794-4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v1 ... 8699-4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v1 ... 9193-4.jpg[/img]

It needs a few tweaks here and there but I think this is going to be simple and effective. I think I've decided to just remove the upper posts for my other hot ends. They just get in the way and removing/replacing them is easy enough.

Although I loose a little Z travel with an under slung Kraken, it is by far the simplest adapter and may be the only alternative with a stock effector.

[mhackney]

So the plumbing for the Bowden and water cooling is going to be easy to install and route. The wiring is a different problem. It is very tight in there. It looks like the wiring may have to come out and in between the pairs of delta arms. There are 4 pairs for the heat cartridges and 4 pairs for the thermistors. I'm looking for some 4 conductor ribbon cable to keep it nice and light and flexible.

[neurascenic]

Is it intended to use recycled Coolant, or Run to waste? if Recycled, Passive (convection), or Pumped?

[howsTricks]

Recycled with an included 12v pump.

Nice work on the mount, quite glad that all of the top holes clear properly!

[neurascenic]

Very cool! I was eyeballing that about a week ago, but figured I should learn what I haven't got to run already... first.

Thanks!

[mhackney]

It comes with a neat little pump (it's in the little box in the first photos) and all the plumbing. All you need is a 2L reservoir. They say that it will keep things cool with nothing else.

[bubbasnow]

are you going to run a radiator?


[img]http://www.dangerden.com/store/images/D/s140.jpg[/img]

http://www.dangerden.com/store/black-ic ... ealth.html

[daftscience]

According to E3d, a radiator isn't needed. Just a reservoir.

[mhackney]

Ok, that radiator is cool! A closed cooling system would eliminate evaporative loss problems and slime.

[Eaglezsoar]

So the plumbing for the Bowden and water cooling is going to be easy to install and route. The wiring is a different problem. It is very tight in there. It looks like the wiring may have to come out and in between the pairs of delta arms. There are 4 pairs for the heat cartridges and 4 pairs for the thermistors. I'm looking for some 4 conductor ribbon cable to keep it nice and light and flexible.

I did a little research on ribbon cable and the standard ribbon cable's conductor size is AWG 28 with a current carrying capacity of 1 - 1.5 amp per conductor.
Obviously standard ribbon cable does not have the capacity to supply the hotend's current requirements unless multiple conductors are used to feed it. In this
case a minimum 4 conductors would be required on the supply current and another 4 for the ground. A minimum of 10 conductors would be required for each
hotend - thermistor combination. In my opinion 4 conductor AWG 18 with a silicone based outside sheath for flexibility would be required for each of the hotends.
You could use 2 conductor silicone based insulation on each hotend with smaller gauge wire for the thermistor but the increased wire count defeats what we are
trying to accomplish.

[daftscience]

I think he was going to use the ribbon cable just for the thermistors. "I'm looking for some 4 conductor ribbon cable to keep it nice and light and flexible."

[mhackney]

Actually both! I was planning to connect two heaters and thermistors on each side of the Kraken in "pairs" - so 4 conductor 18 and 4 conductor 22/24 would do it.

[Eaglezsoar]

Actually both! I was planning to connect two heaters and thermistors on each side of the Kraken in "pairs" - so 4 conductor 18 and 4 conductor 22/24 would do it.

That would work, you could actually go a little smaller on the thermistor like 26/28. Ethernet cable comes to mind, one cable could handle all 4 thermistors.

[mhackney]

I'm looking for cabling without the stiff PVC jacket like the typical wiring and the wire that comes with the Rostock Max. With all that wire running to the effector and the water hoses, I want to keep things light and flexible as possible. The water hoses are silicone so they are nice and flexible.

[mhackney]

Ok, this is the redesigned Kraken Konnector. Simplified. The Kraken bolts to the Konnector. The 3 mounting holes for the effector are tapped (8-32) for the quick change thumbscrews I use but you can use machine screws and washers too.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v11 ... 2790-4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s11/v3 ... 2476-4.jpg[/img]

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s10/v1 ... 8704-4.jpg[/img]

It's designed to align the Kraken nozzles on X and Y. Bowden and water tubes go up the middle, wiring out the two sides. I'll probably do a 3rd version with integrated wiring guides but this will get me/us started. I'll post the STLs and photos as soon as this one prints.