I desperately need to remember how to change my feed motor from E1 where it is position now, to E0.
it'd been running good while printing red, and then I switched to black, and it started bogging again...
I'd tried tuning my temp and flow settings a bit bc it kept boggin and backing up, and you can hear it here,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3N4rTxdRZQ
so now thinking i had better check to see if its got a clog, as it has happened before,
with the machine still on, i jumped the power hookup with my pliers while "fiddling", what a great week... did i short the resistor in the hotend, or did i maybe just break the thin thermistor potentially? can i change my hotend from heat0 to heat1 to rule something out? it shows as its heating but the temp just fell, and now wont climb.
i have 4 weeks to have this electric motorcycle converted for the race, and i need to print some more stuff before i can finish this battery pack. and then finish wiring the bike. im soo close, but this is a very abrupt halut im facing...
you can read and see more about the packs at http://www.advancedmagneticpropulsions.wordpress.com
i would really enjoy someone saving my night, at the moment i fear the worst...
E1 to E0
Re: E1 to E0
if there is a problem with the termistor, the printer should display "def" instead of the temperature.
If the pritner displays a temp, the termistor reading is fine.
If you shorted wires, you probably blew a fuse on the Rambo. Did you check them ? There are 3 fuses. One of "normal" size, and 2 small cms fuses.
You should remove them and check them with a multimeter, or a small lamp.
If its one of the small CMS fuse, these are not very easy to find. They can be ordered on internet (you can find the link somewhere in another thread, just search for it), but if you are in a hurry, I recommend soldering a normal size working fuse of similar specs (5Amps, Fast blow) on top of it, while you are waiting to receive the ones ordered on the internet.
It seems that you can switch the 5Amps fuse for a 10Amps one. So if you cannot find a 5Amps fuse, just pick one between 5 and 10 Amps. Just make sure it's a fast blow.
As always, before changing a fuse, make sure there is no more short on your circuitry.
If the pritner displays a temp, the termistor reading is fine.
If you shorted wires, you probably blew a fuse on the Rambo. Did you check them ? There are 3 fuses. One of "normal" size, and 2 small cms fuses.
You should remove them and check them with a multimeter, or a small lamp.
If its one of the small CMS fuse, these are not very easy to find. They can be ordered on internet (you can find the link somewhere in another thread, just search for it), but if you are in a hurry, I recommend soldering a normal size working fuse of similar specs (5Amps, Fast blow) on top of it, while you are waiting to receive the ones ordered on the internet.
It seems that you can switch the 5Amps fuse for a 10Amps one. So if you cannot find a 5Amps fuse, just pick one between 5 and 10 Amps. Just make sure it's a fast blow.
As always, before changing a fuse, make sure there is no more short on your circuitry.
Re: E1 to E0
Thermistor is reading right, one of my fuses is not reading. I like your idea to soldier one over the top of it, thanks for that! how do I change E1 back to E0?
Re: E1 to E0
That would depend on exactly how you changed to E1 in the first place. The most likely and proper place would have been changes to "configuration.h" and updating the firmware. And physically moving the cable to the other connector, of course. (Alternately, just getting a new copy of firmware, since E0 is the default setting...but that wouldn't teach you as much.)EvilFz1 wrote: how do I change E1 back to E0?
I seem to recall you moved to E1 in the first place because you didn't think E0 was working. Are you second-guessing that conclusion?