John at seemecnc gave me this idea to try,
Window tint film from the auto parts store.
I applied it wet with soapy water and squeegeed out all the air bubbles for a super smooth surface. (on the boro glass plate)
John was having good results with PLA
I tried ABS, not to sure if it is going to be great for ABS? more tests needed.
The way the print sticks then releases is kinda weird... does not seem to be a "chemical" bond like glue, could it be a microscopic suction since it is glass smooth? like wringing together two precision 123 blocks?
here is video clip of a test print http://youtu.be/xaMyjJunydg
The piece I got from John is adhesive backed, I think it is this
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gila ... fragment-1
hmmm, I noticed the description says it has a anti-scratch coating... is that good or bad for our application??
I see you can get non-adhesive static cling tint, maybe that would work better?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gila ... indow+tint
cheap and readily available, hope it works out.
Automotive window tint film print surface
- bvandiepenbos
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Automotive window tint film print surface
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Re: Automotive window tint film print surface
As you test this especially for ABS please continue to post the results. Irregardless of how it works all we want to know is if
it stops the curling effect that we all have seen with ABS. Your results are important to us all.
it stops the curling effect that we all have seen with ABS. Your results are important to us all.
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Re: Automotive window tint film print surface
I've used the Gila along with hairspray with very good adhesion results on my H1-1. for some time.
Parts can be a bear to remove unless you pop the build plate and part into the freezer.. after it has cooled to ambient first, otherwise you risk shocking the glass and cracking it.
Application of the film and cure time can be compressed if you use a 50/50 isopropanol alcohol cut with water... you have to move fast to get the bubbles out! I believe the professional window tinters use this approach.
Replacing the film can be a mess. I used a razor blade and acetone to cut the adhesive. Use the film on both sides of the glass to double the time before replacement. I was getting about 15 prints before the film started to deteriorate.
Parts can be a bear to remove unless you pop the build plate and part into the freezer.. after it has cooled to ambient first, otherwise you risk shocking the glass and cracking it.
Application of the film and cure time can be compressed if you use a 50/50 isopropanol alcohol cut with water... you have to move fast to get the bubbles out! I believe the professional window tinters use this approach.
Replacing the film can be a mess. I used a razor blade and acetone to cut the adhesive. Use the film on both sides of the glass to double the time before replacement. I was getting about 15 prints before the film started to deteriorate.
- bvandiepenbos
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Re: Automotive window tint film print surface
did you have to use hairspray on the window tint? I thought tint would work bare.
ABS or PLA?
thanks for sharing your info tips.
ABS or PLA?
thanks for sharing your info tips.
~*Brian V.
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
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Re: Automotive window tint film print surface
I used the hairspray in conjunction with the window tint when printing with ABS. It was generally just a light dusting for a bit of extra bite and would help prevent the occasional lifted corner.
I did not need the hairspray when printing with PLA.
I did not need the hairspray when printing with PLA.