Waterproof Vase Prints

[caseythehost]

I've printed a waterproof vase before, but I can't seem to do it again. They all have that slow leak out of the bottom. Printing with PLA.

Normally I'd just use clear Flex Seal to waterproof them from the inside, but these vase I'm printing now are thin. I read somewhere that making the extrusion width 1.5x it's actual size will help, and I did recently lower my extrusion width to .45 (gave me way better looking prints).

Want to do these vases for my uncle's wedding.

Thanks for the help everyone.

[Jimustanguitar]

If they're leaking out of the bottom and not the sides, it could be your first layer height (not the software setting, but your physical adjustment). You may be able to adjust your endstop screws ever so slightly to "squish" the first layer a bit wider and seal the gap. I learned this by adjusting the opposite way when I printed a gear bearing that was stuck to itself on the first layer. In that case, turned the screws to make the first layer just a touch higher and didn't have a problem after that.

How many solid layers do you have on the bottom?

[guanu]

You shouldn't have to adjust the endstop screws at all after the machine is calibrated.. if you want the first layer to squish more, bring up the EEPROM in your host software and increase the max z length by about .1mm (this will make the nozzle .1mm closer to the bed)... endstop screws should only really be used for calibration because unless you turn them both an identical amount, it can throw off your level calibration... you can also use the lcd in the set z height menu by homing the machine then bring z to -0.1mm and set that as your z=0 to lower the nozzle by .1mm..

Guanu

[Jimustanguitar]

Great point...

if you want the first layer to squish more, bring up the EEPROM in your host software and increase the max z length by about .1mm (this will make the nozzle .1mm closer to the bed)...

When I said to change the setting mechanically and not in the software, I meant not to change your first layer height setting in the slicer program. EEPROM is a great way to do this.

[caseythehost]

Alright, going noob on you guys here.

I'm in Slic3r, and I've opened the configure tool. Is that the right place? I've seen the term EEPROM used, but don't think I've actually messed with it knowingly.

[guanu]

the eeprom I am refering to is not in slic3r, it would be in the host software.. if you use repetier host, its in the menus when you are connected to the machine

when you bring up the eeprom, it will bring up a list of all the machine settings that you can change

Guanu

[caseythehost]

I should also let you know I've only ever printed via SD card.

[caseythehost]

the eeprom I am refering to is not in slic3r, it would be in the host software.. if you use repetier host, its in the menus when you are connected to the machine

when you bring up the eeprom, it will bring up a list of all the machine settings that you can change

Guanu

Ah, would this be it?

[guanu]

yea, to bring up the eeprom, you would connect to the printer, and then go to config, and eeprom.. that will bring up the EEPROM settings.

Guanu

[caseythehost]

Thank you very much.

[caseythehost]

Ok, I gave your suggestions a shot, and no go, but I think I've found the problem ... just not the solution yet.

The edges of the print are not flush. There's a gap.

[lordbinky]

I'm going with the issues still in my head from another post I just did, check your belt tensions, pulley set screws, and cheapskate (like gene has in a video in a stickied thread somewhere). The variation in travel on the infill leads me to believe it is something in those areas that is the source of your problems.