Calibrating the Cheapskates
Calibrating the Cheapskates
I'm sure this has been answered a number of times but I'm not turning up any posts by searching for it. I do not have my entire bed calibrated. I can easily calibrate the z-height (in the middle) but way out toward the outer perimeter of my bed it's not calibrated. The far right side is smashing the material into the plate and the far left side is not close enough to the plate. I thought I saw a cheapskate leveling how-to for n00bs somewhere. Does anyone have any links? I've not calibrated the cheapskates before so I hope it's somewhat easy.
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
I'll post a copy-paste from another thread I described how to adjust the corners... this is modified for the max....
I'll post the calibration procedure I do here at the shop when I calibrate all the orions, but I'll change the gcode for the size of your max... hopefully this makes calibration easier, its easier for me and faster....
for pictures of what you should be looking at look (starting at page 25) at the 0.91 firmware version of the orion manual at http://download.seemecnc.com/orion/Orio ... -2ndEd.pdf
1) Preheat hot-end and bed to the material you use. If you use both, just use the “Preheat ABS”
in the printer settings menu on the LCD.
2) Once the hot-end and bed are up to temp, on the LCD, click the knob to bring up the menu,
go to Advanced Settings (at the bottom of the list). Click the knob.
3) Go to the bottom of the next menu to Calibrate Z Height. Click the knob.
4) Now you are in the calibration menu. Click Home Towers. The machine will go up and hit all
the end-stops.
5) Go down to Z Position and click the knob.
6) Turn the knob Counter-Clockwise to lower the nozzle. Bring the nozzle down till its a couple
millimeters from the glass like the following pic.
7) Turn the knob counterclockwise SLOWLY and look eye level with the bed, and bring the
nozzle down till it just barely meets the glass (this is easiest with a white wall in the background
so you can watch the reflection of the nozzle – if you don't have a white background to use, you
could tape a sheet of paper between the towers to give you enough contrast). When the nozzle
touches the glass, click the knob.
8) Go down to Set New Z=0.00 and then click the knob.
9) Go to Home Towers. Click the knob. You have now set the z height, and now it is time to
calibrate the towers.
The next steps can be done through a computer or SD card. I find it is easier on a sd card so
you can keep close to the machine to watch the movement.
10) Open notepad or a text editor of your choice.
11) Paste the following into the text editor: ***modified for Rostock Max!***
; Tower endstop calibration script
G28
G1 Z.2 F15000
G4 S1
G1 X-77.94 Y-45 F2000
G4 S2
G1 X0 Y0
G1 X77.94 Y-45
G4 S2
G1 X0 Y0
G1 Y90
G4 S2
G1 X0 Y0
;
12) Save the file as “Towers.gcode” and place it on an SD card, or if you are going to be using
a computer, load it into your host software that you use.
13) Again with the bed at eye level and looking close, Run Towers.gcode from either your host
software or SD card. Watch closely as the machine will home, then the nozzle will drop to
0.2mm ABOVE the glass.
After it drops to the center like that, it will travel to the X tower. DO NOT pay attention to what
the nozzle does while traveling, what you must pay attention to is when it pauses.
The nozzle will pause at the X corner, then return to the center, and move to the Y tower and
pause. After the pause, it will again move to the center, and move to the Z tower, pause, and
return to the center.
14) What you want to remember is the nozzle when it pauses. You want to compare the
movement to the gap at the center.
– If the nozzle at the tower RAISES (compared to the CENTER), you want to adjust the screw
that hits the end-stop by turning it counterclockwise (moving the screw up).
– If the nozzle at the tower LOWERS (compared to the CENTER), you want to adjust the screw
that hits the end-stop by turning it clockwise (moving the screw down)
15) After you have adjusted the screws, You have changed the Z height, so you want to go back
and re-set the Z height the way you did earlier in this guide.
16) Re-run Towers.gcode and watch as you did before, again noting the changes in the nozzle
at each pause. You will run through these steps till the nozzle remains the same height at each
tower when compared to the center.
If the nozzle goes the same direction on all 3 towers (such as you have the gap in the center,
and at every tower the nozzle lowers. Or you have the gap at the center and at all 3 pauses the
nozzle raises), you will adjust the radius in the following way
17a) If from the center gap, the nozzle goes DOWN toward the glass at ALL 3 TOWERS, load
your host software and bring up the EEPROM information. You will look for Horizontal Radius.
You want to RAISE that number. I suggest raising it by 0.2 and run towers.gcode to see the
change, and keep raising the number till the gap evens out (changing this number will not make
you need to re-set your z height, it will just raise the outer edges where the nozzle pauses).
17b) If from the center gap, the nozzle goes UP toward the glass at ALL 3 TOWERS, load your
host software and bring up the EEPROM information. You will look for Horizontal Radius. You
want to LOWER that number. I suggest raising it by 0.2 and run towers.gcode to see the
change, and keep raising the number till the gap evens out (changing this number will not make
you need to re-set your z height, it will just lower the outer edges where the nozzle pauses).
After doing this, you will see any changes where one tower may be higher than another, if this is
the case, go back to adjusting the end-stop screws as before.
Typically it can take anywhere from 5-10 or so re-runs of the tweaks to get the gap to remain the
same at all 3 pauses compared to the center of the machine. Once the gap is the same at each
tower compared to the center, your machine is calibrated and ready to print!
Guanu
I'll post the calibration procedure I do here at the shop when I calibrate all the orions, but I'll change the gcode for the size of your max... hopefully this makes calibration easier, its easier for me and faster....
for pictures of what you should be looking at look (starting at page 25) at the 0.91 firmware version of the orion manual at http://download.seemecnc.com/orion/Orio ... -2ndEd.pdf
1) Preheat hot-end and bed to the material you use. If you use both, just use the “Preheat ABS”
in the printer settings menu on the LCD.
2) Once the hot-end and bed are up to temp, on the LCD, click the knob to bring up the menu,
go to Advanced Settings (at the bottom of the list). Click the knob.
3) Go to the bottom of the next menu to Calibrate Z Height. Click the knob.
4) Now you are in the calibration menu. Click Home Towers. The machine will go up and hit all
the end-stops.
5) Go down to Z Position and click the knob.
6) Turn the knob Counter-Clockwise to lower the nozzle. Bring the nozzle down till its a couple
millimeters from the glass like the following pic.
7) Turn the knob counterclockwise SLOWLY and look eye level with the bed, and bring the
nozzle down till it just barely meets the glass (this is easiest with a white wall in the background
so you can watch the reflection of the nozzle – if you don't have a white background to use, you
could tape a sheet of paper between the towers to give you enough contrast). When the nozzle
touches the glass, click the knob.
8) Go down to Set New Z=0.00 and then click the knob.
9) Go to Home Towers. Click the knob. You have now set the z height, and now it is time to
calibrate the towers.
The next steps can be done through a computer or SD card. I find it is easier on a sd card so
you can keep close to the machine to watch the movement.
10) Open notepad or a text editor of your choice.
11) Paste the following into the text editor: ***modified for Rostock Max!***
; Tower endstop calibration script
G28
G1 Z.2 F15000
G4 S1
G1 X-77.94 Y-45 F2000
G4 S2
G1 X0 Y0
G1 X77.94 Y-45
G4 S2
G1 X0 Y0
G1 Y90
G4 S2
G1 X0 Y0
;
12) Save the file as “Towers.gcode” and place it on an SD card, or if you are going to be using
a computer, load it into your host software that you use.
13) Again with the bed at eye level and looking close, Run Towers.gcode from either your host
software or SD card. Watch closely as the machine will home, then the nozzle will drop to
0.2mm ABOVE the glass.
After it drops to the center like that, it will travel to the X tower. DO NOT pay attention to what
the nozzle does while traveling, what you must pay attention to is when it pauses.
The nozzle will pause at the X corner, then return to the center, and move to the Y tower and
pause. After the pause, it will again move to the center, and move to the Z tower, pause, and
return to the center.
14) What you want to remember is the nozzle when it pauses. You want to compare the
movement to the gap at the center.
– If the nozzle at the tower RAISES (compared to the CENTER), you want to adjust the screw
that hits the end-stop by turning it counterclockwise (moving the screw up).
– If the nozzle at the tower LOWERS (compared to the CENTER), you want to adjust the screw
that hits the end-stop by turning it clockwise (moving the screw down)
15) After you have adjusted the screws, You have changed the Z height, so you want to go back
and re-set the Z height the way you did earlier in this guide.
16) Re-run Towers.gcode and watch as you did before, again noting the changes in the nozzle
at each pause. You will run through these steps till the nozzle remains the same height at each
tower when compared to the center.
If the nozzle goes the same direction on all 3 towers (such as you have the gap in the center,
and at every tower the nozzle lowers. Or you have the gap at the center and at all 3 pauses the
nozzle raises), you will adjust the radius in the following way
17a) If from the center gap, the nozzle goes DOWN toward the glass at ALL 3 TOWERS, load
your host software and bring up the EEPROM information. You will look for Horizontal Radius.
You want to RAISE that number. I suggest raising it by 0.2 and run towers.gcode to see the
change, and keep raising the number till the gap evens out (changing this number will not make
you need to re-set your z height, it will just raise the outer edges where the nozzle pauses).
17b) If from the center gap, the nozzle goes UP toward the glass at ALL 3 TOWERS, load your
host software and bring up the EEPROM information. You will look for Horizontal Radius. You
want to LOWER that number. I suggest raising it by 0.2 and run towers.gcode to see the
change, and keep raising the number till the gap evens out (changing this number will not make
you need to re-set your z height, it will just lower the outer edges where the nozzle pauses).
After doing this, you will see any changes where one tower may be higher than another, if this is
the case, go back to adjusting the end-stop screws as before.
Typically it can take anywhere from 5-10 or so re-runs of the tweaks to get the gap to remain the
same at all 3 pauses compared to the center of the machine. Once the gap is the same at each
tower compared to the center, your machine is calibrated and ready to print!
Guanu
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Hi heathenx
yes totally agree, the same question.
Yesterday I finished my Max , And I had the same question because of some inconsistancy in the cheapskates built. But its not only the Cheapskate, there are many , very tiny, but obviously production and engeering faults.
But these are all construction issues, Software issues will come today, I hope not to see that there are more problems.
Just an example of problems with my cheapskate which is not easy to fix, because this thing is constructed like it is.
Now the transmission belts are not 100% parallel to each other, that leads to a situation that the belt is running perfectly inside the coloum of the inner side of the printer, but the belt on the outside is running exactely in the gab of the coloum, and if you dont sand the sharp egdes on the cut of the coloum, it rips off rubber. Regulating that with the level/tunning screw is extremely difficult. I have to find a solution for that, otherwise the belts will be damaged very soon.
The plastic caps of the ball bearings from the cheapskates is to elastic and if your cheapskates sitting on the same position over night, you will have flat noticible marks on, you can hear and feel them while moving the cheapsakte up and down.
There are many more small issues, one more example, the arms, the drilled holes are sometimes to chamfered, so you have only the half material of the arm, the surface of the arms is also not perfect flat, there are bumps from the plastic extrusion, which is definately not good, the arm will tilt, not to much but it will.
When I have studied this machine, and became a Pro, then I will give a proper feedback.
Bye, Christoph, who is interested in answers for your question.
yes totally agree, the same question.
Yesterday I finished my Max , And I had the same question because of some inconsistancy in the cheapskates built. But its not only the Cheapskate, there are many , very tiny, but obviously production and engeering faults.
But these are all construction issues, Software issues will come today, I hope not to see that there are more problems.
Just an example of problems with my cheapskate which is not easy to fix, because this thing is constructed like it is.
Now the transmission belts are not 100% parallel to each other, that leads to a situation that the belt is running perfectly inside the coloum of the inner side of the printer, but the belt on the outside is running exactely in the gab of the coloum, and if you dont sand the sharp egdes on the cut of the coloum, it rips off rubber. Regulating that with the level/tunning screw is extremely difficult. I have to find a solution for that, otherwise the belts will be damaged very soon.
The plastic caps of the ball bearings from the cheapskates is to elastic and if your cheapskates sitting on the same position over night, you will have flat noticible marks on, you can hear and feel them while moving the cheapsakte up and down.
There are many more small issues, one more example, the arms, the drilled holes are sometimes to chamfered, so you have only the half material of the arm, the surface of the arms is also not perfect flat, there are bumps from the plastic extrusion, which is definately not good, the arm will tilt, not to much but it will.
When I have studied this machine, and became a Pro, then I will give a proper feedback.
Bye, Christoph, who is interested in answers for your question.
-
Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
It is true that the cheapskate rollers do develop flat spots in them but they work themselves out to round again in short order after starting the printer moving. It has never been an issue.Elysio wrote:Hi heathenx
yes totally agree, the same question.
Yesterday I finished my Max , And I had the same question because of some inconsistancy in the cheapskates built. But its not only the Cheapskate, there are many , very tiny, but obviously production and engeering faults.
But these are all construction issues, Software issues will come today, I hope not to see that there are more problems.
Just an example of problems with my cheapskate which is not easy to fix, because this thing is constructed like it is.
Now the transmission belts are not 100% parallel to each other, that leads to a situation that the belt is running perfectly inside the coloum of the inner side of the printer, but the belt on the outside is running exactely in the gab of the coloum, and if you dont sand the sharp egdes on the cut of the coloum, it rips off rubber. Regulating that with the level/tunning screw is extremely difficult. I have to find a solution for that, otherwise the belts will be damaged very soon.
The plastic caps of the ball bearings from the cheapskates is to elastic and if your cheapskates sitting on the same position over night, you will have flat noticible marks on, you can hear and feel them while moving the cheapsakte up and down.
There are many more small issues, one more example, the arms, the drilled holes are sometimes to chamfered, so you have only the half material of the arm, the surface of the arms is also not perfect flat, there are bumps from the plastic extrusion, which is definately not good, the arm will tilt, not to much but it will.
When I have studied this machine, and became a Pro, then I will give a proper feedback.
Bye, Christoph, who is interested in answers for your question.
You should consider printing the belt tensioning devices on Thingiverse, that will enable you to put tension on whatever side you need it on to keep the belt running straight.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:87463
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
If your roller bearing covers have flat spots, they're too tight! I've got five of these suckers laying about and they spend 99% of their time doing nothing. I've NEVER seen a flat spot on a bearing cover.
I eagerly await your detailed description of the "engineering faults".
g.
I eagerly await your detailed description of the "engineering faults".
g.
Delta Power!
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
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Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
-
Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
- Posts: 7159
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Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Then mine are too tight also, thanks for the tip.geneb wrote:If your roller bearing covers have flat spots, they're too tight! I've got five of these suckers laying about and they spend 99% of their time doing nothing. I've NEVER seen a flat spot on a bearing cover.
I eagerly await your detailed description of the "engineering faults".
g.
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Hi Geneb
First I tought that too, but i adjusted the cheapskates so soft that they are near to (not really but near too) wobbling, means they are so weak that this can not be. Maybe the covers should be made by a harder plastic, just an idea.
And Yes that review will come, constructive, but well minded.......
I hope my limited english is good enough to expres what I want to say.
Hi Eaglezsoar.
Thank you I will try this recommendation.
Bye, C.
First I tought that too, but i adjusted the cheapskates so soft that they are near to (not really but near too) wobbling, means they are so weak that this can not be. Maybe the covers should be made by a harder plastic, just an idea.
Please dont take that personally, this are, as I wrote befor tiny issues, but the are noticible.I eagerly await your detailed description of the "engineering faults".
And Yes that review will come, constructive, but well minded.......
I hope my limited english is good enough to expres what I want to say.Hi Eaglezsoar.
Thank you I will try this recommendation.
Bye, C.
Last edited by Elysio on Tue Apr 22, 2014 2:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Ah! Big thanks, guanu. I do remember now reading that once in the Orion manual but I totally forgot about it. As soon as my current print job finishes I'll try calibrating my towers. Another question: How often do you folks calibrate the towers? Only when you see a problem or more often than that?
Oh, by the way. Wouldn't this process be a great candidate for a SeeMeEducate YouTube video? Seeing before doing...that's how I like to learn.
Oh, by the way. Wouldn't this process be a great candidate for a SeeMeEducate YouTube video? Seeing before doing...that's how I like to learn.
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
we are going to be doing videos, and that will be one of them, we just have been busy here at the shop... as far as how often you calibrate, once you set it, you shouldnt have to worry about it unless you took the printer on a car ride and it got banged up...
Guanu
Guanu
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Well, my printer has seen some car time.
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Alright. I wasn't able to calibrate the towers today so I'll save it for tomorrow. Although, I noticed on my SD card that in the calibration folder that there was already a tower gcode file. I ran it just to see what it did...then I ran guanu's tower gcode file. Looks like it does nearly the same thing. However, I question this "calibration by sight" method. Wouldn't it be better if it paused long enough for me to measure the difference in the center and at each tower? Seems like I should be sliding a sheet of paper in the center and at each tower. How else am I supposed to know if it's calibrated. Perhaps I'm missing something. I will write this...I have NOT thoroughly gone through the steps of calibrating the towers so maybe I'm getting ahead of myself a bit.
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
nah, you can easily calibrate it by eye.... people tend to overthink and overcomplicate thinking it has to be within a micron to work.. as long as the gap from the center at each tower has pretty much the same gap, there wont be problems, your first layer in your slicer should always be thicker than the rest of the layers just for that, personally I use a .3 - .35 first layer and .2 layers for the rest.. and when I set my z=0 to the bed it gives a good squish over the whole bed and works great.. I've calibrated over 250 orions by eye.. watching the .2mm gap is whats key, since its close enough to the bed to see movement up/down yet far enough to be able to see the gap clearly, I actually feel its more precise than using a sheet of paper.
Guanu
Guanu
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Fair enough. I'll try it by eye and see what I get.
By the way, I'm just getting started with my calibration. IT'S WAY OFF! Ha! It looks like my X is fine but my Y and Z towers are way off. I'm .2mm above the center of the bed and Y and Z nearly scrape the plate.
By the way, I'm just getting started with my calibration. IT'S WAY OFF! Ha! It looks like my X is fine but my Y and Z towers are way off. I'm .2mm above the center of the bed and Y and Z nearly scrape the plate.
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Hi Heathenx
Maybe its not the Hotend which differs , maybe its the hot bed. Try to put some paper strips under the nylon rollers to lift the bed some microns up and you will see if there is anymore a gap.
Bye.
Maybe its not the Hotend which differs , maybe its the hot bed. Try to put some paper strips under the nylon rollers to lift the bed some microns up and you will see if there is anymore a gap.
Bye.
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Yea, you just gotta think in the way these screws interact with the machine.... if x is fine, and its y and z thats the problem, they are most likely off by an equal amount.... you have to think of it in this way... if your y axis goes up, you will turn the endstop screw counter clockwise, now in doing this, you are "essentially" turining both z and x screws clockwise by doing this.. so basically if its about a .2 variance on y and z, I would turn the Z screw 1/2 turn clockwise, and the Y screw 1/2 turn counter clockwise... this basically cancels out any change to the X tower, and adjusts both the y and z in the proper directions if that makes sense... if you only adjusted one screw, it would affect the movement of both other towers in the opposite way, which is why I always say to make small adjustments and do all 3 towers at the same time... and it usually takes about 5 re-sets to dial it in, but the adjustments will get finer and finer
Guanu
Guanu
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
I've built over 250 machines and have never had to shim a bed to calibrate it, what he is describing is endstop adjustmentElysio wrote:Hi Heathenx
Maybe its not the Hotend which differs , maybe its the hot bed. Try to put some paper strips under the nylon rollers to lift the bed some microns up and you will see if there is anymore a gap.
Bye.
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Okay 
I`m convinced.
I`m convinced.Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Alright, it looks like I have X and Z right on the money, but Y nearly touches the bed. Unfortunately my Y screw is all of the way down. I can't turn it anymore. I certainly don't want to strip the threads. What should be done in this case? I have plenty of screw (adjustment up and down) to play with on my X and Z.
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
if the X is going down and the screw is all the way down, you can turn y and z counter clockwise the same amount... (this is what I was saying earlier about adjusting one screw affects both others, but in reverse) what will happen is X will come down less, but y and z will go down... sounds like they will all end up going down some, just try to get them to go down an equal amount...
once the machine goes to the center, and (from the sounds of how your machine is) all 3 towers, the nozzle will go down an equal amount.. so do this..
and in .91 firmware, you can load up a host program (matter control or repetier.. whatever) and bring up the EEPROM, go to horizontal radius, and increase the number (only about .2 or so at a time) to raise all 3 tower points till they are level. That will dial in the radius once they are all moving equal, and then you can level it out with the radius.
Guanu
once the machine goes to the center, and (from the sounds of how your machine is) all 3 towers, the nozzle will go down an equal amount.. so do this..
and in .91 firmware, you can load up a host program (matter control or repetier.. whatever) and bring up the EEPROM, go to horizontal radius, and increase the number (only about .2 or so at a time) to raise all 3 tower points till they are level. That will dial in the radius once they are all moving equal, and then you can level it out with the radius.
Guanu
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
@guanu
I followed your instructions by raising the X and Z screws a little. Looks like it have it pretty much the same on all 3 towers. All 3 lower a little from center. It doesn't look like it's perfect but it much better. Although, I'm a little worried about my Y screw head. It seems it's too low. The head of the screw isn't contacting the end stop lever. The lever is actually hitting on the edge of the melamine on the cheapskate. It seems like the screw head should be contacting just like the X and Z screw heads do. I've seen pictures of set-ups with really long screws. I wonder now if this is why.
Anyway, regarding the eeprom. My printer isn't connected to my desktop, which is a good 15 feet away. Can I get to the eeprom from the LCD/firmware on the printer itself?
Oh! Also, I have a radius gcode file in the calibration folder on my sd card. I suppose I should run that at some point?
I followed your instructions by raising the X and Z screws a little. Looks like it have it pretty much the same on all 3 towers. All 3 lower a little from center. It doesn't look like it's perfect but it much better. Although, I'm a little worried about my Y screw head. It seems it's too low. The head of the screw isn't contacting the end stop lever. The lever is actually hitting on the edge of the melamine on the cheapskate. It seems like the screw head should be contacting just like the X and Z screw heads do. I've seen pictures of set-ups with really long screws. I wonder now if this is why.
Anyway, regarding the eeprom. My printer isn't connected to my desktop, which is a good 15 feet away. Can I get to the eeprom from the LCD/firmware on the printer itself?
Oh! Also, I have a radius gcode file in the calibration folder on my sd card. I suppose I should run that at some point?
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
I've been wanting to get the horizontal radius on the lcd for a while, and we have tried many things, but havent been able to get it right yet, so currently to change the radius it needs a pc to adjust...
as far as the endstop, the only way would be to back out all 3 screws equally, reset your z and go through the calibrating process again with more adjustment room... but now that you've gone through it, it makes it a lot easier when you know what you are looking at and how adjusthing things affects the towers.
dont happen to have a usb extension do you? as i wouldnt print with an extension, it would get you by to at least update the radius... once you dial it in you wont need the computer after you set that..
Guanu
as far as the endstop, the only way would be to back out all 3 screws equally, reset your z and go through the calibrating process again with more adjustment room... but now that you've gone through it, it makes it a lot easier when you know what you are looking at and how adjusthing things affects the towers.
dont happen to have a usb extension do you? as i wouldnt print with an extension, it would get you by to at least update the radius... once you dial it in you wont need the computer after you set that..
Guanu
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
In that case I'll put the printer closer to my PC for now and get into the eeprom. I've never messed with the eeprom settings before (new user).
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
DONE! I think I have it calibrated now. When I went into the eeprom my default horizontal radius setting was 130.250. I changed it to 130.450. Re-calibrated the z height. Ran the tower gcode and it appears to be right on the money. Am I completely finished or do I need to run the radius gcode?
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
center and towers even? reset your z one more time and you are good to print! congrats!
Guanu
Guanu
Re: Calibrating the Cheapskates
Yes, all looks great now. Center looks great and towers look great. BIG BIG THANKS, guanu. I appreciate it. Hopefully I will see an improvement on my prints.