Heated bed cannot reach temp

[geolupulus]

Okay I just built a Rostock Max V2 and I have the new V3 heated bed. I'm having an issue getting it up to temperature. Using Repetier on windows XP as per GENEB's assembly manual. The manual shows the target temp for the heated bed to be 90°. After about two hours the bed would only get up to 72°. Has anyone else had this happen and find a solution?

[jesse]

Put a pot holder on the bed while it heats up. Another option is putting a polystyrene disc on the bed while it heats up.

[geolupulus]

Thanks Jesse. I forgot to mention that I have tried that. That helps it heat faster, and even temporarily gets it over 72°, but when I remove the insulation to print, the temp drops back down.

[geneb]

geolupulus, do you have the Rev3 Onyx?

g.

[geolupulus]

Geneb, yes rev3 onyx.

[geneb]

Rats. I'm in the same boat. My new Rev3 acts the same way. I've got a dialog going with John about it.

I'll update this thread when I know more. In the mean time, you should email support about it just to get it on their radar.

Is anyone else with a Rev3 having issues with it?

tnx.

g.

[Max]

I have the new rev3 also, and have the same problem.

I use a sheet of white printer paper folded to make a air gap over the plate.

-Max

[geolupulus]

Will do, thanks for the info!

[Max]

I guess I should have explained why I use a plain piece of printer paper...

It's dirt cheap. I fold it in a diagonally both directions to give it some strength, and then fold about 1/2 inch or more on 2 opposite sides. This way it sits up off the glass way out at the edges, and doesn't touch the glue stick I put down. Keep dust and fibers off the glass/glue before printing.

And in a pinch I can recheck my z height.

-Max

[JohnStack]

There's always the bolting on the second PS for heated bed specifically...

This weekend, amongst other changes, I bought this to power the entire unit. I'm hopeful that I can heat to whatever temp I want.

If not, I still have another PSU.

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/rm-series- ... wer-supply

[geneb]

geo, do me a favor - set your bed to heat up and then touch the wires feeding it. Are they getting warm?

tnx.

g.

[geolupulus]

Okay, I set the bed to heat up, I checked a few seconds after turning it on and again about a half hour later. They definitely are not warming up.

[Max]

I swear mine is heating faster each time I use it. This morning it took for ever. But tonight after a few prints it was faster... or I've already tuned myself to go and do something else for a while.

With both fans running, it's holding 60C after 45 minutes.

[forrie]

There's always the bolting on the second PS for heated bed specifically...

This weekend, amongst other changes, I bought this to power the entire unit. I'm hopeful that I can heat to whatever temp I want.

If not, I still have another PSU.

http://www.corsair.com/en-us/rm-series- ... wer-supply

Corsair make a quality PSU..

You have the same idea as me...I'm picking up my V2 tomorrow from the FedEx depot and plan on using an old 750W Thermaltake Toughpower as the PSU. I'm going to use power from the two PCIE rails (18A) each to power the bed. Hopefully should be enough...

It's a beast of a PSU and I know from experience it can pump out much much more power reliably than it is rated for....

[wweinaug]

I have the new rev3 onyx, i but a towel over the entire bed and its gotten up to 100, takes a bit but gets to 80 pretty quick.

[geolupulus]

Anyone find a solution for this? I don't like the idea of buying another PS, while it would be easy, it seems like a band-aid.

[guanu]

email [email protected] with you order number and that you have the rev3 onyx with the heating issue, we are aware of it, they will tell you what we are currently doing about the issue.

Guanu

[Eaglezsoar]

email [email protected] with you order number and that you have the rev3 onyx with the heating issue, we are aware of it, they will tell you what we are currently doing about the issue.

Guanu

What is the solution to the problem, a new bed?

[chanistuff]

I am having the same problem. Have you gotten any resolution with the problem?

Chantelle

[ZionPhil]

It's an issue of current. Solder an extra wire onto the wire going into the Rambo and the one going to the bed. Recommended by John Oly. I have done 3 wires from Rambo to Bed. Went from only being able to get up to 85 degrees to being able to get to 125 degrees and heating up much faster.

Also don't use a pot holder...you a pot LID! A glass pot lid with the approximately circumference of the actually bed works beautifully.

[gajtguy]

I have the same problem with my Rostock V2. The fan shroud (1st print) show the bed temp Target at 90, but it seems to level out at 81. The bed went from high 70's to 81's within the past hour. Little long, ya think?

The whole time the hot end is right on track with the 225 goal. Why burn this power while everything waits for the Bed to heat up. Why does the bed take so long anyway?

Back at this tomorrow. For now, time to hit the sheets.

[chanistuff]

Did you have to reprogram part of the Rambo for the extra wire? Where did you attach the extra wire on the bed? I have never reached higher than 50 and that was only because of the towel idea. It is very anticlimactic to not be able to print your fan shroud after all of that work! I tried to print it at the lower bed temp but the abs just curled.

[geneb]

DO NOT add *one* wire. Add them in pairs if you add any. No firmware changes need to be made.

g.

[geolupulus]

It's an issue of current. Solder an extra wire onto the wire going into the Rambo and the one going to the bed. Recommended by John Oly. I have done 3 wires from Rambo to Bed. Went from only being able to get up to 85 degrees to being able to get to 125 degrees and heating up much faster.

Also don't use a pot holder...you a pot LID! A glass pot lid with the approximately circumference of the actually bed works beautifully.

So you're saying to solder on extra wires along the wire path from the RAMBO to the heated bed? Just double up the wires delivering current to the heated bed and no other change? Sort of like how there are many wires entering the RAMBO from the PSU, we're increasing the number of wires leaving the RAMBO and going to the heated bed? I just want to be clear on this before I go changing my rig.

Thanks

[geneb]

Yes, just add another pair of 18ga wires from the Onyx to the RAMBo. You're basically increasing the carrying capacity of the "hose" that's going to the Onyx.

g.