E3D V4 All metal hotend

[Nylocke]

This is slightly off topic, but in my most recent order from E3d I got a little something extra... For some reason there was a package of Haribro gummy bears? Does anyone know what this is about?

[mhackney]

Yes, they do that with all their orders. Nice guys!

[lordbinky]

Wha? Mine didn't have one.... CUSTOMS! ARG!

[Nylocke]

I think I got mine because it was away at the bottom

[JohnStack]

That's strange, I got two round trip tickets to London with mine.

I got the gummies with mine too.

Every thing I ship out - to friends, customers, everyone - I include a handful of bazooka gum. People love the little stuff.

[mhackney]

Hey John, send me a package! I love Bazooka!

cheers,
Michael

[Eaglezsoar]

Hey John, send me a package! I love Bazooka!

cheers,
Michael

The gum or the weapon?

[geneb]

Yes.

g.

[milosonator]

I'm having a lot of the same issues as other people here. Basically I have tried over 10 prints, only 1 succesfull so far: all due to jammed PLA. What is going on? I have a E3D v5 3mm.

I'm using 3mm PLA in a bowden setup, already tried different types of PLA, doesn't seem to make a difference. How can I prevent these jams? Could it be that my nozzle bore is too long? Shorter retracts? (3mm right now)

Please advice!

[mhackney]

Retract speed has more influence than distance. Keep it at 25mm/s. 3mm is fine.

Check your bore, read up about 10 pages (!) or search, it's easy and I will wager that that's your problem.

[Flateric]

I have to finally chime in here.

I don't really know why or how but I am unable to EVER get this hotend to jam no matter what I throw at it and what temps. PLA, ABS, polycarb, ninjaflex, high-impact abs, color source of plastic anything.

I print PLA at blazing speeds at temps as high as 235 at times. Regular ABS as high as 255. The trick I suppose is to not let the filament sit in the hotend not moving at the end.

I do a retract as soon as I finish printing of 10mm.

I also have the fan on the hotend running full speed from the moment the printer is turned off till it powers down.

If I am going to be printing smaller parts with abs or pla and have throttled back the speed I lower the temp accordingly.

But even still I have forgotten the hotend on with no retract and simply pushed the new PLA through the old pastic sitting in the hotend for hours with no jam.

Perhaps it is because I use a bulldog extruder?

[mhackney]

I'm curious, have you measured the bore length of your nozzle?

[bvandiepenbos]

I shortened my bore length to .5 mm ...still can not print PLA with the E3D. ABS works great though.

[Tinyhead]

Just shortened mine 30mins ago... going to give it a whirl shortly. Fingers crossed.

Sorry to hear yours didn't work out there Brian.

[PopolZ]

I didn't know the V6 was coming out... I have a V5 coming in hopefully this week.

I hope I'll get PLA friendly nozzles... I'll have the standard .4, .25 and .6mm.

[mhackney]

Brian, what sorts of issues do you have? I know that a few of us had progressed along a debugging curve - polishing the SS barrel, making sure the PTC did not snag, too aggressive gripping of the extruder cog raising burs on the filament, and debarring the entry into the SS tubing. You should be able to easily push the PLA by hand at temperature. If not, move the filament up and down by hand and find where the friction is.

[milosonator]

I've read up on the whole bore length story, very interesting. Especially since I actually got a E3D because I thought it would print PLA just fine! I'd rather have it working, but I ain't scared of a challenge to fix this problem.

Retract speed has more influence than distance. Keep it at 25mm/s. 3mm is fine.

Check your bore, read up about 10 pages (!) or search, it's easy and I will wager that that's your problem.

I'll take that wager . Did you use a 2mm drill on a 3mm-filament-nozzle to decrease the bore length??

I think I'm going to take a measure of my bore, and put it up here. Does anyone have a good drawing of the 3mm nozzle? because I want to know how much deeper I can make the bore, without making the nozzle walls too thin.

[mhackney]

I only have 1.75mm nozzles. I have read (in this thread I think) that a 3mm drill will penetrate the side of the nozzle because of the cutting angle, so use a 2mm drill bit and use fingers to twist it. Go slow and check often.

I don't think there is a drawing of the 3mm nozzle. Do the plug measurement and then we should be able to draw one up.

[milosonator]

It is in the freezer now. Ill update when I get it out and measure.

[Nylocke]

I used a 1/8" bit I had. It was a Milwaukee one, I think it was 135 degree point. I got to around 1.3mm I think before I broke it. So if you try it with a 3mm bit I wouldn't go much more than 1.4.

[milosonator]

I used a 1/8" bit I had. It was a Milwaukee one, I think it was 135 degree point. I got to around 1.3mm I think before I broke it. So if you try it with a 3mm bit I wouldn't go much more than 1.4.

I got a 2mm drill. I have Didn't manage to pull the PLA from the nozzle though. Is there a trick to do it?

[mhackney]

Don't hold the nozzle in your hand! Hold it with pliers so it stays cold longer. I use a twisting motion to break it free then pull.

[lordbinky]

Sounds like an excuse to buy dry ice to me .

[mhackney]

Dry Ice - perfect!

[milosonator]

And that, coming from the Ice King Are the Adventure Time avatars a thing here?