What extras to get with a Max v2

[teoman]

What extras do you recommend purchasing with a Rostock Max v2?

I am about to pull the trigger on one of these and live far far away. I will have some one transport it over in a suitcase, so getting extra goodies at a later date will be slightly problematic for me.


What do you recommend? Extra hot end, belts gears?


Thank you in advance,

Teoman

[heathenx]

Extra glass plate and a .35mm nozzle.

[teoman]

what else?

[Polygonhell]

For spares, get a couple of extra pneumatic fittings, the new ones are better than the old ones, so it might be a none issue now.
Belts can be damaged relatively easily, and it's nice to have a spare.
Outside of that assuming you can source things like fuses and wire locally it's just guessing at what might happen.

[Mac The Knife]

For the initial build, extra tie wraps,( they only include what you need, so don't screw up!", Kapton tape, and a spool of ABS filament.

[Captain Starfish]

As mentioned already, 0.35mm nozzle for fine work. I'd get a spare pair of 0.35 and 0.5mm nozzles too. Because if you get a jam and you have a spare, you can swap and keep printing whilst you burn out the jam instead of having to stop everything.
Those push-connectors for the bowden tube WILL fail, get a half dozen spares.
I'd also get a couple of spare extra tygon tube pairs for inside the hot end. Just in case.
A spare thermistor in case you break one.
A layer fan if they're selling them yet.
A couple of spare NANO2 fuses.

Get a spool of ABS as well as PLA to play with, decide which one you want to use then order more of that. Otherwise you'll end up like me with a couple of rarely used PLA spools sitting there rotting.

[teoman]

Thank you for the usefull info.

Btw, are you Captain Starfish from RBW?

[Captain Starfish]

There can be only one!

[mlapaglia]

What about some carbon fiber arms to improve print quality?

[Captain Starfish]

My thoughts are there's already enough new stuff going on. You can get a respectably clean print with the stock setup. Get it going with enough spares to keep it going. Once you've got it settled in and have a feel for what's good and not, then start looking at upgrades with a bit of experience under your belt to guide you.

Carbon fibre arms and magnet balls are a LONG way down my wish list behind accurate temperature management, improved temperature range (hello nylon and PET without burning my house down), better bed adhesion, better tower rigidity and only then maybe looking at arms. Maybe.

[teoman]

For tower rigidity, you could try placing a few kilos of lead diving weights on the top of the towers. Get it nice and heavy. It would dampen some of the oscillations.

[eatenbyagrue]

My thoughts are there's already enough new stuff going on. You can get a respectably clean print with the stock setup. Get it going with enough spares to keep it going. Once you've got it settled in and have a feel for what's good and not, then start looking at upgrades with a bit of experience under your belt to guide you.

Carbon fibre arms and magnet balls are a LONG way down my wish list behind accurate temperature management, improved temperature range (hello nylon and PET without burning my house down), better bed adhesion, better tower rigidity and only then maybe looking at arms. Maybe.

+1 for temperature management. I just got up and running and am finding it's hard to keep the hot end temp stable, particularly when printing PLA fast. Just ordered a cartridge heater - hopefully that will solve the problem.

[Captain Starfish]

Problem with weighting the top, teoman, is that it then tends to stay still if the base is jumping around. Far better, I think, to have a lighter but more rigid structure - and the easiest way to do this when I reach it on my list is to upgrade to the V2 RMax head. Which is what you get anyway if you buy a new one now.

Temperature management isn't so much about the heater - those two resistors are more than capable of getting the hot end to self destruction temperatures. It's more about accurate, consistent temperature measurement to feed back into the PID loop in the controller. Throw a 40W cartridge in there without accurate control and it's going to get messy. So make sure your RAMBO is actually calculating the right temperature off your thermistor, or, as is my intention, throw the thermistor away and replace it with a thermocouple and interface board for that.

[graham.p.heath]

With regards to placing a weight on top of the v2.

I was watching "Build it bigger" or something similar, about earthquake prevention in towers. The trick there, at least in skyscrapers, was ballasts partially filled with water.

So i placed a bottle of household cleaner on the top. Its not a perfect solution, it is an improvement though; I have hardly noticed the machine building any standing oscillations since. I think you could use multiple bottles, and improve the stability.

[geneb]

Graham, can you make a video of this? I think people would get a kick out of seeing earthquake damage mitigation measures used in a 3D printer.

g.

[teoman]

Dismantling and poxying noise cancelling earphones on to the top part would be another option

What about bolting the whole assembly to the wall?

[teoman]

Thanks for the updates guys. I just placed my order a few hours ago.