Orion EZstruder Dust Problem

[TFMike]

Just disassembled my EZ struder on my Orion, as well as my hot end, cleaned them out totally with acetone and heat and all that. Re-assembled, started a new print, took al ook at the EZ struder gripper thing and saw again a ton of dust. Are there some other settings I should mess with to alleviate this? Printing makerfarm ABS at 218 start and 225-228 thereafter. Should I adjust accelerationon or current on the extruder? Print hotter? Replace bowden tube?


EDIT: forgot to say I am running the stock hotend for the orion.

[Captain Starfish]

Too much back pressure - I'd try running it 10º hotter and see if it makes a difference. Don't run more current - if it's burring off dust then the motor power is greater than the hobbed gear's bite, ie already too much.

[TFMike]

I was thinking less current and new hot end, the stock orion can only goto 230 if I'm not mistaken

[Captain Starfish]

I wouldn't back the current off - if you back it off enough to stop the dust you'll end up with the motor skipping and completely rubbish prints.

You can push the hot end a little more than that. The other thing is: get yourself a thermocouple with a meter ($20 from eBay et al) and measure the actual nozzle temperature by loosening off the nozzle, putting the thermocouple tip behind the nozzle's nut and nipping it up again. You may well find that the nozzle is sitting at 200º when the thermistor is telling you 225º. It's happened to many of us and is a function of thermistor variance, if that's happened you won't get a reliable print until you change the thermistor table in the firmware.

[TFMike]

Can I use a PID to test the temperature? I have two here

[TFMike]

anybody know?

[Eaglezsoar]

anybody know?

What are you calling a pid? One of the infrared guns?

[TFMike]

one of these: http://www.mypinchina.com/en/Product.as ... =0&Depth=1

[Eaglezsoar]

You could use one of those meters to display the temperature of the thermocouple but the thermocouple supplied with those types of meters normally are
not small enough to fit inside the Hotend which is what you need it to do. The normal process is to bring the hotend up to operating temperature and
remove the bowden tube and filament and insert a small thermocouple until it bottoms out against the nozzle. At that point the reading is read off of both
the thermocouple and LCD to see what the variance is. The Pid devices that you have would read such a temperature if you could find one of the small usually
type K thermocouple.

[TFMike]

Like one of these right? http://www.filastruder.com/products/fil ... ermocouple


hell yeah, looks like Im in bizness

[RAMTechRob]

Are you hearing clicking from the servo when you are printing? I had that problem and turned up the heat by 2 degrees with great success. After watching my complete print, the clicking started during an infill and the heater just couldn;t keep up with the load of material flowing through.

[TFMike]

Are you hearing clicking from the servo when you are printing? I had that problem and turned up the heat by 2 degrees with great success. After watching my complete print, the clicking started during an infill and the heater just couldn;t keep up with the load of material flowing through.

I hear sound but I don't know where they are coming from, it almost sounds like the spool of ABS is clicking from rotation but IDK....

[RAMTechRob]

Have someone hold the spool a few feet away and see if you hear the sound from the servo. I would bet good money its from the servo.

[TFMike]

so what is the solution? I am damn near positive that the temp I am reading from my hotend is not accurate so I am gonna mess with that tonight

[Eaglezsoar]

Like one of these right? http://www.filastruder.com/products/fil ... ermocouple


hell yeah, looks like Im in bizness

Yes that looks like it would work.