[NEW! 12Feb14] Rostock MAX Assembly Manual

[geneb]

The completed version of the Rostock MAX assembly guide is available from:

---------- First Edition for Indiegogo Machines ONLY! ----------
https://github.com/geneb/Rostock-MAX-Docs
You're welcome to download the PDF or the Microsoft Word 2010 (.docx) version, whichever works for you.
---------- First Edition for Indiegogo Machines ONLY! ----------

The Second Edition for the Rostock MAX v1 is available here:
http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax ... -Guide.pdf

Also here:
https://github.com/seemecnc/RostockMAX

The Second Edition is complete with the exception of the "Upgrades" chapter.

[12Jul13]
I added the docs for the top mounted extruder on the 8th and added the hardware list to it last night.
If you would like to see me duplicate the EZStruder assembly instructions in the top mounted extruder instructions, let me know.

[18Jul13]
Added a missed fastener description for mounting the EZStruder to the arm.

[01Aug13]
Revised wire order on stepper motors, made note that currently shipping kits come with the stepper motors
pre-wired. I'll need to add a bit about splicing in extra wire to reach the top mounted extruder.

[15Aug13]
Split section 11 in two in order to better divide the two extruder mount types (top & side). Included EZStruder assembly in this section as well (duplicated, but that's fine). Moved the recommendation about using a #6-32 tap for the end stop screw and added the new hardware BOM.

[03Sep13]
Fixed an incorrectly identified screw length for the Cheapskate Axles. Should have been 2", was listed as 1.75".

[06Sep13]
Fixed a few more errors and added a 40W soldering iron to the required materials list.

[02Oct13]
Added information on the new delta arms and the new nozzle design.

[23Oct13]
Broke Section 13 into three parts, added additional information to assist in wire management.
202 pages.

[15Nov13]
Revised to include notes about the new v1.2 RAMBo, a new auto-fan firmware change for the PEEK fan, a complete and clear delta radius calibration flowchart, a new accessories appendix and misc. typo/updates.

[18Dec13]
Added a new chapter that covers Repeiter-Host. Same content as in Orion manual.

[12Feb14]
Due to the new 0.91 version of the firmware, I've added a new calibration section as an appendix. This appendix covers the complete calibration process from the standpoint of the 0.91 firmware.
g.

[geneb]

Posted a new update today. Added a formal table of contents and a few notes based on user feedback. Now up to 120 pages.

g.

[JakeCShake]

Wow....very cool........

[v8tony]

Wow, it was already awesome... between Steve's videos and your manual this was great... printed my first (and second) test cube last night... now the tuning begins....

Tony

[geneb]

Glad to hear it Tony! You need to post pics of your test cube.

I updated the manual again today with a clarification on the heated bed wiring. Yesterday got an update as well.

g.

[v8tony]

My test cube still looks bad. I slowed down the retract rate and now I can hear the difference with the stepper. It was missing steps on retraction and that screws things up big... I marked the filiment and controled things manually to check. I had to slow down to 18 mm/s to get clean motion... So, I must be doing something wrong if you guys are retracting at 50+... I still get the occational missed step on one of the 3 main steppers also seems to only happen when they are going up (makes sense because of extra load I guess)...

I'm re-zeroing my z height (I did it without tape and I think the tape thickness is affecting things)... I'll let you know how it works...

Tony

[geneb]

That sounds really odd. Do a G28 and then G1 Z100 F7500 and see what it does. It shouldn't skip steps or make any odd noises. I've got my retract in Cura set to 100mm/sec and it works very well.

I'm sure between the brains among us we can figure out what's up with your machine.

g.

[Polygonhell]

I can't get mine to retract at anything over 40mm/s FWIW.
The cap in the firmware is 60mm/sec for E so setting it higher than that without changing the firmware is of no value.
It's very picky about how tight the pinch rollers are, you should try loosening them a turn or two they can easily be too tight. It's also really easy to assemble the extruder so it's overly tight, either by not seating the bearings or by over tightening the volts in the body of the extruder.

[geneb]

Version 1.6 of the manual is now online. The most important fix is the adjustment for the test extrusion temperature from 260C to 245C. 260C was specified in error!

A new troubleshooting topic on belt lash was added as well.

122 pages so far.

g.

[dbarrans]

On the top of page 8 in v1.6, the Tri-support p/n is shown as 86352, but my parts show 68352.

- dan

[dbarrans]

In v1.6, fig 7 and fig 8 show the T-slot support fitted into the wrong side of the Tri-support. Figs 9, 10, and 11 have it right.

- dan

[geneb]

Thanks Dan, I'll get that fixed as soon as I can.

g.

[dbarrans]

On p 30, you identify the extruder brackets as p/n 68397, but mine are 68387.

- dan

[dbarrans]

On p 31, you identify the Extruder Clamp as p/n 68399, but mine shows 68389.

- dan

[geneb]

Thanks Dan. I'll get those updated this week.

g.

[geneb]

v1.7 is now available with requested updates & fixes!

g.

[geneb]

Updated today to 1.8 - I added a simpler calibration method below the fancy caliper-laden one.

g.

[dbarrans]

Gene, in section 19.3 you mentioned using fishing line to fish the end stop wires through the rails. It's much easier to do this before installing the upper idlers and the belts. That way, it's a straight shot with nothing in the way. Also, I used a drill to twist the wires together (about 2 turns per inch) so they're stiff enough to easily push through the rails on their own with no need for fishing line. I wrapped the wire ends (with connectors attached) in a piece of paper towel and tightened the drill chuck just enough to keep the wires from slipping out. Don't tighten more than needed, to avoid damaging the connectors.

Also, it doesn't make sense to install the heated bed in step 2 then remove it again in step 20 to attach the LED, resistor, thermistor, and wiring to it. Better to just install the T-nuts and not mount the heated bed until it's ready.

- dan

[dbarrans]

The most difficult thing I ran into while building this thing was fishing the belts through the slots, even with hemostats. If I were to do this again, I'd have filed the slots a bit wider to make it easier.

- dan

[dbarrans]

I'm in the unfortunate position of having an almost completely assembled Rostock Max with the LCD door in what appears to be the wrong place. I put the electronics door in front (between the X and Y rails) like section 1.20 shows, but my second door looks different from the support door you show in Figure 16. Mine has a cutout for the LCD, but if I add a second extruder later between the Y and Z rails, it'll make the LCD inaccessible.

My kit came with a couple triangular wood brackets along with a wood panel with a second LCD cutout, but there's no obvious way to assemble them, and there are no suitable mounting holes for the brackets on the electronics door. I can make this work by drilling more holes, but I'm still puzzled how it was intended to go together.

- dan

[dbarrans]

I think it would have made more sense to put the LCD door between the X and Y rails, and the electronics door between the Y and Z rails. Then the LCD would be in front, and could either be mounted vertically in the door or angled upwards using the triangular brackets.

Of course, this would also have an impact on wire lengths since the RAMBo would no longer be in front.

- dan

[geneb]

Thanks for the feedback Dan. Note that I do NOT have the version with the LCD door, so I couldn't write anything up regarding it.

g.

[dbarrans]

I figured that out from your photos in the assembly guide. Please don't get me wrong. I found the guide extremely helpful in getting this thing put together, and I truly appreciate all you did to help me and every other kit owner with this.

What rev is your kit? Mine is R7.

- dan

[geneb]

I have no clue what rev my kit is. Hey John! What's my kit rev?

g.

[dbarrans]

Hmmm. Maybe the R7 on all my parts doesn't mean what I think it means. I see your parts also have R7 printed on them, but many of your parts have minor differences from mine.

- dan