PEI print bed surface experiments
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
I agree with Eaglesoarz. But do not go courser!
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The Eclectic Angler
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
New to the party, but reading this thread with great interest.
Here's an idea rattling around in my head; let me throw it out here and see if it makes sense.
How about a mic-6 plate bead blasted to create a matte surface then coated with a PEI/solvent solution and dried. The film could be spin-cast to create a uniform thickness. Although chemical resistance is one of PEI's virtues, it can reportedly be dissolved in (among others) acetophenone,anisole, chlorobenzene, dichlorobenzene (DCB), ortho dichlorobenzene, para dichlorobenzene, xylene, toluene, mesitylene, dimethyl acrylamide, and methylene chloride. If the preparation is done carefully, this should eliminate any issues of bubbling and delamination. Naturally, these solvents need to be treated with respect, but most of the folks here should be savvy enough to handle them safely.
Does the idea have any merit?
Here's an idea rattling around in my head; let me throw it out here and see if it makes sense.
How about a mic-6 plate bead blasted to create a matte surface then coated with a PEI/solvent solution and dried. The film could be spin-cast to create a uniform thickness. Although chemical resistance is one of PEI's virtues, it can reportedly be dissolved in (among others) acetophenone,anisole, chlorobenzene, dichlorobenzene (DCB), ortho dichlorobenzene, para dichlorobenzene, xylene, toluene, mesitylene, dimethyl acrylamide, and methylene chloride. If the preparation is done carefully, this should eliminate any issues of bubbling and delamination. Naturally, these solvents need to be treated with respect, but most of the folks here should be savvy enough to handle them safely.
Does the idea have any merit?
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Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
It does have merit but is more complex than is needed. The PEI can simply be taped to the Mic-6 and provide a level enough surface for 3D printing, it's beendkaustin wrote:New to the party, but reading this thread with great interest.
Here's an idea rattling around in my head; let me throw it out here and see if it makes sense.
How about a mic-6 plate bead blasted to create a matte surface then coated with a PEI/solvent solution and dried. The film could be spin-cast to create a uniform thickness. Although chemical resistance is one of PEI's virtues, it can reportedly be dissolved in (among others) acetophenone,anisole, chlorobenzene, dichlorobenzene (DCB), ortho dichlorobenzene, para dichlorobenzene, xylene, toluene, mesitylene, dimethyl acrylamide, and methylene chloride. If the preparation is done carefully, this should eliminate any issues of bubbling and delamination. Naturally, these solvents need to be treated with respect, but most of the folks here should be savvy enough to handle them safely.
Does the idea have any merit?
done by dozens of our own users and has worked fine.
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
The major drawback is that MIC-6 is only available down to .25" thick. That is a LOT of mass to heat up and would be a show stopper for the stock power supplies and would even tax the 20 amp 24 v supply I use. I've been looking for a source for "flat" aluminum in 2mm or 1/8" for over a year. I use MIC-6 a lot in my shop and have looked at it and the competitor but neither is available in thinner sheets.
Also, fyi to all, the tape works perfectly - no bubbles or delays after 100s of hours of use.
cheers,
Michael
Also, fyi to all, the tape works perfectly - no bubbles or delays after 100s of hours of use.
cheers,
Michael
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
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A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
As anyone tried print large ABS or Nylon prints on this surface? I just printed a large object (large footprint) and it was so hard to get off the plate. I eventually got it off but it create slight "humps" in the PEI. I am pretty sure the plate, glass included, is ruined. I do not believe that I can replace the PEI once it is on, and removing all the tape would take hours. I am using the 0.03 PEI plate with the Tapecase 468MP.
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Yes with ABS. I don't think PEI is suitable for nylon, at least no one I've heard has tried it.
There are a few tricks; 1) use the lowest bed temperature that gets good stick 2) remove the part immediately, don't allow the bed to cool 3) if during 2 the part is difficult to remove or if y9ou wait until the bed has cold, chill the bed/part in the refrigerator and it will literally SNAP off!
I don't think it would be difficult to remove the PEI, I've done it 3 times. Once after gluing with gasket cement, once after silicone seal and ounce after 3M tape. Since you used tape, lift an edge and squirt a little acetone in there. It will work its way in, lift and squirt. It will come off pretty easily.
There are a few tricks; 1) use the lowest bed temperature that gets good stick 2) remove the part immediately, don't allow the bed to cool 3) if during 2 the part is difficult to remove or if y9ou wait until the bed has cold, chill the bed/part in the refrigerator and it will literally SNAP off!
I don't think it would be difficult to remove the PEI, I've done it 3 times. Once after gluing with gasket cement, once after silicone seal and ounce after 3M tape. Since you used tape, lift an edge and squirt a little acetone in there. It will work its way in, lift and squirt. It will come off pretty easily.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
Strategies for Resolving Print Artifacts
The Eclectic Angler
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
mhackney wrote:Yes with ABS. I don't think PEI is suitable for nylon, at least no one I've heard has tried it.
There are a few tricks; 1) use the lowest bed temperature that gets good stick 2) remove the part immediately, don't allow the bed to cool 3) if during 2 the part is difficult to remove or if y9ou wait until the bed has cold, chill the bed/part in the refrigerator and it will literally SNAP off!
I don't think it would be difficult to remove the PEI, I've done it 3 times. Once after gluing with gasket cement, once after silicone seal and ounce after 3M tape. Since you used tape, lift an edge and squirt a little acetone in there. It will work its way in, lift and squirt. It will come off pretty easily.
Thanks for the tips.
regarding (3). I would have thought that letting the part cool would make it easier to snap off?
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Not to room temp, but if you keep cooling to fridge temps, then yes.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
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The Eclectic Angler
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
I've also put it in the freezer for a few minutes. Worked well.
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Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
so now that a few of you have played around with PEI, what seems to be the best in terms of adhesive?
i was about to order a few sheet but then though i might as well make the order for all parts in one go.
i was about to order a few sheet but then though i might as well make the order for all parts in one go.
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
The 3M tape is the ONLY way to go.
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The Eclectic Angler
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Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Here is a link to the tape if you have a hard time finding it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7 ... UTF8&psc=1
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Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Thanks guys, putting an order through now.
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Is PEI worth installing for PLA if you don't have a heated bed? I put together a Kossel Mini without a heated bed for PLA only.
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
No, it needs to be hot to get good stick. I tried it unheated and it doesn't work at all. Blue tape is the best bet I think for PLA with no heated bed. That's what I'm doing on my Kossel Mini.
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Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Michael should answer this question since he has the most experience. Barring that then someone with PEI performance experience should answer this.Broose wrote:Is PEI worth installing for PLA if you don't have a heated bed? I put together a Kossel Mini without a heated bed for PLA only.
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Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Already did Eagle!
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The Eclectic Angler
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Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
We must be posting at the same time or very very close.mhackney wrote:Already did Eagle!
“ Do Not Regret Growing Older. It is a Privilege Denied to Many. ”
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Just received my PEI sheet from Amazon, this stuff is really expensive! I paid $20 after tax, it looks like the price jumped to a ridiculous $26 on Amazon, but still $18+change from Amazon Supply. I'm waiting on the tape to install. Well worth it though, if it means I can print without any REAL prep (glue, etc).
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Worth every penny. I just ordered a 12x24 sheet for 2 mini kossels. I llllooooovvvveeee PEI.
Sublime Layers - my blog on Musings and Experiments in 3D Printing Technology and Art
Start Here:
A Strategy for Successful (and Great) Prints
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The Eclectic Angler
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Indeed, worth every penny. You will love it!atoff wrote:Just received my PEI sheet from Amazon, this stuff is really expensive! I paid $20 after tax, it looks like the price jumped to a ridiculous $26 on Amazon, but still $18+change from Amazon Supply. I'm waiting on the tape to install. Well worth it though, if it means I can print without any REAL prep (glue, etc).
Orion to Cartesian http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=7808" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Looking forward to it! I've been printing small test prints on paper, which is fantastic. No prep, no clean-up, it just works, but curls like crazy, since I"m just clipping the paper in place.
The only problem is, I don't have a way of cutting the PEI sheet to a disc, I have just a Dremel with those cheap cutting wheels... think that'll work without damaging it?
The only problem is, I don't have a way of cutting the PEI sheet to a disc, I have just a Dremel with those cheap cutting wheels... think that'll work without damaging it?
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
I'm assuming you got the .03" PEI sheet? I'd recommend cutting it a bit larger diameter, say 13", than your glass plate (assuming 12" Onyx glass). Then attach with the tape. You can then trim using your dremel or a sharp hobby knife or box cutter with a new blade. You won't damage the PEI. It might look like a POS though! You can use sandpaper (320 grit) or files to smooth the edge and bring it right up to the glass. Give it a shot, I'm sure it will be fine.
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Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
I also had good results printing on PEI 12"x12"x0.03" from Amazon.
Re: PEI print bed surface experiments
Well, for a minute I was amused, because I was going to ask how I'd cut a 12x12 sheet to 13 inchesmhackney wrote:I'm assuming you got the .03" PEI sheet? I'd recommend cutting it a bit larger diameter, say 13", than your glass plate (assuming 12" Onyx glass). Then attach with the tape. You can then trim using your dremel or a sharp hobby knife or box cutter with a new blade. You won't damage the PEI. It might look like a POS though! You can use sandpaper (320 grit) or files to smooth the edge and bring it right up to the glass. Give it a shot, I'm sure it will be fine.
