I have no idea what version bed I have, but I think it may be Ver.2. Who knows, they seem to change versions faster then GM can recall cars. That being said. i didn't really have a problem with temperature in the beginning, with the default setting of 60c for the bed temperature. Ten minutes to get the bed to temperature didn't seem unreasonable. However, when larger prints started to peel up from the bed, I raised the temperature to 100c. Then it took over a half hour to get up to temperature. Not a major deal, but still not quite right. Yesterday while trying to reprint a troublesome print, I noticed the bed temperature had dipped down to 80c. To me, that was a problem.
I had read all of the threads about other peoples hot bed problems, and their solutions. Buying 24 volt power supplies, and turning them down to 20 volts, recalculating pwm frequencies, etc. Well, the power supplies provided with the printers are for computers, and when I measured the voltage at the bed, I was only reading 10.47 volts. My solution was to use a power supply that I used to use, when I raced RC cars, to power my battery chargers. They were originally designed for RV vehicles, and put out 13.8 volts, and with a jumper are capable of 14.2 volts. The one I have is rated at 30 amps.
I hooked hooked it up to the power input plug of the RamBo, and now it only takes 7 minutes to get up to 100c, and during a print, the temperature only dropped to 99.6c. The downside to using this for a power source, is that there is no power switch, nor remote power on like a pc power supply. But that's what power strips are for.
Here's a link to an example: http://www.bestconverter.com/DLS-30-30- ... p_317.html
My solution for heated bed.
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My solution for heated bed.
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Eris
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Eris
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- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
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Re: My solution for heated bed.
I did rerun the PID tune, and re updated those settings.
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Eris
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Eris
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- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
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Re: My solution for heated bed.
More information can be found here.http://www.rivergatedist.com/
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Eris
Folger Tech FT-5 R2
Eris
Folger Tech FT-5 R2