Sanding the Glass Bed

[Boundless]

Guys,

I have been thinking about ways to increase adhesion and I was wondering if anyone out there has sanded the top glass bed? It comes clean and smooth, but it seems to me that if sanded with the right grit, it would greatly increase adhesion with tiny amount of surface abrasion.

It doesn't take much to scratch or sand glass to create a texture that ABS may adhere too. I am tempted to try it with some scrap glass.

[Captain Starfish]

Boundless - that's a great idea!

It just so happens that I have an original borosilicate plate with chunks torn out of it here in the study and a linisher in the shed loaded with 240 grit paper.

I know what game I'm playing tomorrow

[Boundless]

Captain,

Glad you have some scrap you can try. Just be safe when it comes to dust. Wear something that will protect you.

[Captain Starfish]

She'll be right, mate.

[Boundless]

I think I am going to try it this weekend as well.

IF it doesn't work, no big deal, I'll just flip the plate back over to the smooth side. Might be nice to have 1 side smooth, 1 side sanded for different materials.

[Eaglezsoar]

Interesting, please post your results after you test. Thanks!

[guanu]

tried it, didnt work so well.. I also used glass etch from a craft store.. same result... still get the best results out of the unscented aqua net hairspray. but go for it... I didnt have the tools but my next step was going to be a light sandblasting (also note that roughing the surface of glass can end very badly like one of mine did... with heating comes expansion and the etched/scratched glass can stress and break the glass.. mine did..)

Guanu

[Tinyhead]

tried it, didnt work so well.. I also used glass etch from a craft store.. same result... still get the best results out of the unscented aqua net hairspray. but go for it... I didnt have the tools but my next step was going to be a light sandblasting (also note that roughing the surface of glass can end very badly like one of mine did... with heating comes expansion and the etched/scratched glass can stress and break the glass.. mine did..)

Guanu

I've always wanted to bead-blast mine. I never thought about the etching and expanding surface though... I'm glad I didn't try it now.

[Boundless]

Guanu,

If you tried it and it didn't work out, I guess I'll pass on the idea. I figured one of you fellas had tried it. Just makes since for the surface being printed on to have some tooth to it.

I got some Aqua Net from CVS and am trying that tonight.

[Polygonhell]

The general consensus is a lot of the adhesion with the glass is a result of two smooth surfaces mating, which is why prints seem to "pop off" when the seal is broken.
roughing up the glass surface your trading that for whatever adhesive property the plastic has with the glass and I don't think that's very much.

[Captain Starfish]

Considering the plate I have in mind is stuffed anyway, I'm willing to give it a crack (so to speak). Well aware of the issues of surface tension and cracking and the vacuum cleaner will be in the room waiting for a shard hunt.

Guess I'm hoping for a half decent mechanical keying in with a really hot first layer, one which doesn't rely on glue sticks or hairspray.

And no way is abs juice going near this plate - I've seen what it can do to flat glass but this? >shudder<

[Captain Starfish]

Well, that was a big fat "meh".

Sanded down nicely in a cross-hatch pattern. Used the linisher for an even surface and decided to go hardcore with an 80 grit paper.

Looked the goods.

Stuck like shit on an oily shovel, ie not at all.

Put a coat of Elmers stick on it halfway across where the print was trying to happen. Bahaha - the raft printing balled up on the glass, stuck to the elmers.

I declare fail city. Worth a try though, and a neat idea. Perhaps it needs deeper grooves, but I really didn't want to go any harder with the abrasives on it.

[Eaglezsoar]

Well, that was a big fat "meh".

Sanded down nicely in a cross-hatch pattern. Used the linisher for an even surface and decided to go hardcore with an 80 grit paper.

Looked the goods.

Stuck like shit on an oily shovel, ie not at all.

Put a coat of Elmers stick on it halfway across where the print was trying to happen. Bahaha - the raft printing balled up on the glass, stuck to the elmers.

I declare fail city. Worth a try though, and a neat idea. Perhaps it needs deeper grooves, but I really didn't want to go any harder with the abrasives on it.

Hey you tried! We thank you for reporting back, even a failure is good to know because it prevents others from wasting their time. Thanks!

[Captain Starfish]

I nearly tried sand blasting it until I realised - the advantage of sanding is the creation of ridges and valleys that the hot 1st layer can mechanically lock into. So steeper is better. And blasting tends to knock those peaks down, so I don't think blasting would be of any help at all in this.

Next step is to wait on that green stuff kickstarter and see how it goes for people.

[Boundless]

Well Captain,

Appreciate you giving the sanding a try for us. Thought it was a good idea. I think you're right about sandblasting, don't bother.

[Max]

I've spent a little time wondering about what would work best, and I ended up at the Van Der Waals force.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Van_der_Waals_force

So you need the right material that will bond to the heater plate, and bond with the hot filament, but release when cooled. Now to understand the filament better...

[nitewatchman]

I read the article and was amazed that Gecko's knew that and could handle the math, I certainly can't.

Sounds like what we need is GeckoTape!

nitewatchman

[Captain Starfish]

Or geckotek plates... ?

[nitewatchman]

Didn't make the connection ---- now I wonder?

Got in on the early bird, we will see this fall.

nitewatchman