Rostock v2 - LED resistors placement

[jeffhuber]

Hi, I believe the instruction manual is outdated as it only talks about 1 LED but in my model there are two. i am wondering if this is the proper placement of the 2 resisters for the 2 LEDs.

I also believe that I need to use two of the white cable to connect to the RAMBo. Where should I put the other white cable? Is the "+" pad shared between both the resister and white cable end?

Thanks!!

[img]https://photos-4.dropbox.com/t/0/AAD5GI ... fPh4fxQb8s[/img]

[brent]

Your image was not linked correctly.

[jeffhuber]

brent, can you see it now? thanks!

I did find this on the forums:

second resistor goes where its labeled "RES" just like for the heated bed LED.... the resistor goes from the RES pad to the + pad.. and then the + and - for hot end led go to the hotend wiring on the rambo for the hotend... (with the rambo green screw terminals at the top, the first 2 spots are for the hotend, first - then +... just add the wires from the hot end led of the bed to the wires from the hotend to the rambo... this will have that LED light up when the hotend gets power)

Guanu

- http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... &start=180

But couldn't parse that to figure out what I should do. =(

[PartDaddy]

Here are Onyx Rev 5 pictures. The overall performance of this heated bed is about the same as Rev 2. However, the heat distribution is much better.

Onyx Rev 5 Bottom

Onyx Rev 5 Top

[guanu]

great visual steve... and awesome ms paint skills too! (but seriously, that helps.. awesome!)

[geneb]

As soon as a needed thermistor arrives, I'll be updating the docs for this revision. The offset thermistor location gives a more accurate result.

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

Thanks PartDaddy! I don't care what Guanu says about you, you are Great!!!
(just kidding about Gaunu, he says great things about you!) (he likes John also)......

[guanu]

Thanks PartDaddy! I don't care what Guanu says about you, you are Great!!!
(just kidding about Gaunu, he says great things about you!) (he likes John also)......

LIES!! I never said I liked john! lol

Guanu

[johnoly99]

funny guys

[Eaglezsoar]

funny guys

We thought so too!

[jeffhuber]

A couple more questions on this, hopefully this will make creating the docs easy.

make your browser window wide to see the full image
[img]https://cloud.githubusercontent.com/ass ... 76e39a.png[/img]

Steve clarified via email:

The center hole is not used for anything. The white wires that come with the Rambo board and connect the thermistor to the Rambo.

26 AWG wire is used to connect the hot and LED to the Rambo board . Connect to the same place you connect the hot end wires.

Use 18AWG for main power.

My open questions:
1. Do I use the 2nd resistor? if so where does it go? Does it share a pad with the wiring that connects the LEDs to the rambo board?
2. How do I know where to drill the new hole? Will I mess something up if I make a mistake? Any special instructions on what drill bit to use? (eg - what material is this?)
3. It looks like where the thermistor is soldered gets switched to the "bottom" pads. if that is the case - do the thermistor wires go to the top pads now? (where the thermistor was for a center hole configuration)
4. I see from the diagram that I should use 26AWG for the other wiring. How long should those wires be to connect to the RAMBo board?

I think that's it. thanks guys!

[guanu]

1. yes, goes where you are asking, between the res and +
2. look at the top image steve posted, small drill bit, BETWEEN the traces where it shows.. as long as the hole is big enough for the the thermistor, thats a good size, as long as the hole isnt too big to hit the traces on the top of the bed
3. yes, the top pads are connected to the bottom pads for the thermistor
4. to connect to the rambo the wires only have to be about 2" longer than the bottom of the bed.. basically when I cut the wire I make it a couple inches longer than the distance from the solder pad to the bottom of the bed

Guanu

[PartDaddy]

1. Yes, the second resistor shares a pad with the 22-26AWG wires that connect to the RAMBo board. Same place you connect the hot end.
2. Drill only from the TOP. The bottom doesn't matter. Please look at the picture I posted earlier. Looking at the top, avoid drilling the spiral trace. Drill the hole between the traces.
3. Yes, solder the thermistor to the bottom pads after forming the leads to fit the hole.
4. Wire for the LEDs isn't carrying much current. Any 22-26AWG is fine.

The main power wires are 18AWG, the thicker wires in the kit. At this point, you should follow the manual.

[JohnStack]

Partsdaddy,

Of course, I saw this thread after I soldered the connections and covered them with RTV to prevent shorts.

My wife Sherri, you remember her from our dinner in Santa Monica, right? She came in my office this morning at 6, saw me scratching off the RTV and said "I thought you soldered those last night?"

I said yes, but I just saw this thread. Told her what it was about. LOL

She wanted me to tell you that R&D is tough and "Make to market" requires a disciplined approach to testing." LOL

I took the liberty of replying for you "JIT design is like poker. Just like taking cards, you take a chance every day you ship new product."

My specific feedback is that we need a better knowledge management. I don't mind drilling and resoldering and appreciate the new discovery before I get everything put back together.


Where do the HOT END LED WIRES GO on the board?

[geneb]

...and that's why I recommend using Kapton tape to cover the solder joints.

(got whacked by food poisoning on Sunday -sorry for being absent)

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

...and that's why I recommend using Kapton tape to cover the solder joints.

(got whacked by food poisoning on Sunday -sorry for being absent)

g.

Hope you are okay now.

[Jimustanguitar]

I like the offset thermistor location too. I think this will help keep prints stuck to the bed. (sounds weird, but hear me out)

Most prints go right over the center of the bed (the old location of the thermistor) with the solid first layer. The filament is 200+ so the bed temp reading spikes which turns off the heat. By the time that the thermistor is normal again, the bed itself is 10 degrees low and it never catches up... I think this temp drop on the 1st layer has a lot to do with the pesky trouble of getting the first layer to stick...

Obviously printing over the new location would have the same effect, but perhaps not as often depending on what you're printing. Is there a way to use multiple thermistors and to have the firmware ignore the one that reads hi? Or average the two at-least?