Tri Hotend
Re: Tri Hotend
Well, it's not that the power supplies are expensive, I'm more worried what will happen if the powersupply isn't powerful enough. Will the printers electronics get damaged due to it?
- Jimustanguitar
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Re: Tri Hotend
And what are you naming this?
My suggestion is XXXtruder
Although, it is a hot-end and not an extruder. You need to develop that next!
You ought to adapt your threaded bowden concept to the aluminum piece in the EZStruder.
My suggestion is XXXtruder

Although, it is a hot-end and not an extruder. You need to develop that next!
You ought to adapt your threaded bowden concept to the aluminum piece in the EZStruder.
Re: Tri Hotend
Wouldn't he need to put reverse threads on one end of the Bowden tube otherwise it would never be able to be installed on both ends without taking the hot end or extruder off.Jimustanguitar wrote:And what are you naming this?
My suggestion is XXXtruder
Although, it is a hot-end and not an extruder. You need to develop that next!
You ought to adapt your threaded bowden concept to the aluminum piece in the EZStruder.
This looks like the nicest extruder design I have ever seen. Nice work. I'd really like to use it but since the Rambo doesn't support it I think there needs to be a good set of instructions on what needs to be done and changed to get this working on a stock Rostock. If there's a well documented upgrade, I'm interested!
Re: Tri Hotend
I would be very interested in buying and trying. I will be using the stock with Tricklaser arms.
Some observations:
One would have to be using the same materials (ABS) with the same melting points - which implies (at times), the same color as well.
Also, I don't know if you have printed with this yet; however, peak cooling would have to be very uniform across each corner. Is that correct?
I would sell the stock effector plate - since someone would have to print one before they used your hot end. If they are switching from a failed hot end, it's a problem. I had to rely on the kindness of others to bridge me past my earlier problem.
Cheers and great work!
Some observations:
One would have to be using the same materials (ABS) with the same melting points - which implies (at times), the same color as well.
Also, I don't know if you have printed with this yet; however, peak cooling would have to be very uniform across each corner. Is that correct?
I would sell the stock effector plate - since someone would have to print one before they used your hot end. If they are switching from a failed hot end, it's a problem. I had to rely on the kindness of others to bridge me past my earlier problem.
Cheers and great work!
Technologist, Maker, Willing to question conventional logic
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Re: Tri Hotend
Jimustanguitar wrote:And what are you naming this?
My suggestion is XXXtruder
Although, it is a hot-end and not an extruder. You need to develop that next!
You ought to adapt your threaded bowden concept to the aluminum piece in the EZStruder.
I'm just calling it the Tri hotend. Originally I had a slightly different name that sounded a lot cooler but stuff happened and it's a long story as to why I didn't name it the other name (which i can't mention for reasons I don't want to explain here...?) My CAD files have this 'code name', and I have 5 previous iterations before I got to the current design.
I like your idea about the XXXtruder! Once I develop compact multi cold end extruders, I'll seriously consider that!
Unfortunately I don't have an EZstruder right now so I don't really know about the aluminum piece you're talking about. Is it an M4 threaded hole that the bowden tube goes into? Or is it a PTC fitting? Either way it will work with the Tri hotend, it's just a matter of stuffing tubes into stuff and twisting.
The Rambo can only support two hotends right now because it only has two steppers for it. If you have a different board that allows more than two steppers, you're good to go. Otherwise you will be limited to two colors or two materials, with the third nozzle just idle. Once I get a 3mm version it will allow you to switch between 1.75mm and 3mm without changing the hotend. There are still benefits to using the Tri hotend instead of two separate hotends, and the cost would be about the same (unless you get two cheap Chinese J-heads).
JohnStack,
I made an adapter piece to fit the Tri hotend to the Rostock Max V1 effector plate. It's a very easy upgrade that takes a few minutes, most of which is screwing the adapter plate down to the SeeMeCNC effector plate. I'm also going to design a mount for the Rostock Max V2 effector plate, which I just found out yesterday is different from the V1 plate! There is also the option of printing your own out. I'll have the mounting dimensions on my website soon.
I did think about people who are switching from a failed hotend or no hotend at all. I'll include the adapter in the package, but if they are building a custom printer from scratch, this kind of situation is a problem. It's hard to make a machine without a making machine....
Check out the Tri hotend!
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Re: Tri Hotend
Generic Default, do you have a webpage up and running yet?
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Re: Tri Hotend
I do have the website up, and while I'm not ready to ship this minute, if you order this week I should definitely be able to ship before the weekend. I'm just hesitant since this is my first time selling anything of relatively high value on the internet, and since it's a professionally developed product I want to make sure it's flawless before taking people's money!
Also be aware that the mass produced version coming in the next few weeks will have some slight improvements, as will any versions after it. I can't tell you what those improvements are right now but just know that I will be sending out upgrade parts to my first few customers once I have them (for free).
Seems kind of unethical to sell you something and then come out with a new and improved version soon after.
I didn't want to post the link to my website here on the forums but apparently Google can take up to several months to index websites, so I guess I'll have to link to it so you can find it...If this violates any forum rules please tell me so I can remove the link. The website isn't entirely finished right now.
http://www.polystroooder.com
Also be aware that the mass produced version coming in the next few weeks will have some slight improvements, as will any versions after it. I can't tell you what those improvements are right now but just know that I will be sending out upgrade parts to my first few customers once I have them (for free).
Seems kind of unethical to sell you something and then come out with a new and improved version soon after.
I didn't want to post the link to my website here on the forums but apparently Google can take up to several months to index websites, so I guess I'll have to link to it so you can find it...If this violates any forum rules please tell me so I can remove the link. The website isn't entirely finished right now.
http://www.polystroooder.com
Check out the Tri hotend!
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Re: Tri Hotend
Thanks for the link, I hate to appear stupid but how do I download the two files that you have up?Generic Default wrote:I do have the website up, and while I'm not ready to ship this minute, if you order this week I should definitely be able to ship before the weekend. I'm just hesitant since this is my first time selling anything of relatively high value on the internet, and since it's a professionally developed product I want to make sure it's flawless before taking people's money!
Also be aware that the mass produced version coming in the next few weeks will have some slight improvements, as will any versions after it. I can't tell you what those improvements are right now but just know that I will be sending out upgrade parts to my first few customers once I have them (for free).
Seems kind of unethical to sell you something and then come out with a new and improved version soon after.
I didn't want to post the link to my website here on the forums but apparently Google can take up to several months to index websites, so I guess I'll have to link to it so you can find it...If this violates any forum rules please tell me so I can remove the link. The website isn't entirely finished right now.
http://www.polystroooder.com
From what you indicated, it may be better to wait until the improvements are in place.
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Re: Tri Hotend
Just to make it clear the production version will only be slightly different in aesthetics, and it may take significantly longer than I thought to get this thing produced in larger quantities. Like a month or two.
The ones I have right now are CNC'd on my own 4 axis mill and lathe, which is slow since I don't have an automatic bar feeder. Setting up a manufacturing and online retailing business is harder than I thought! I'm working on the printed instructions and papers that come in the box right now. The design of the actual hotend is done and tested.
The ones I have right now are CNC'd on my own 4 axis mill and lathe, which is slow since I don't have an automatic bar feeder. Setting up a manufacturing and online retailing business is harder than I thought! I'm working on the printed instructions and papers that come in the box right now. The design of the actual hotend is done and tested.
Check out the Tri hotend!
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Re: Tri Hotend
See if SeeMeCNC can turn them out on their Mazak for you.Generic Default wrote:The ones I have right now are CNC'd on my own 4 axis mill and lathe, which is slow since I don't have an automatic bar feeder.
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Re: Tri Hotend
xxxstruder is a really good name... Might end up with some odd google searches, but hey YOLO!
I loved my Rostock so much I now sell them in Oz 

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Re: Tri Hotend
For me this may justify a second machine to put this on.
I am saving up my milk money! Or is it beer money?...
I am saving up my milk money! Or is it beer money?...
Challenge yourself and be a more awesome you.
Re: Tri Hotend
This really caught me by surprise as I haven't seen it done like this yet.... would you be willing to make a dual hot end in the same type of platform? While 3 is crazy impressive, I think some of us that might be trying to achieve dual status would be very interested in something like this. There would be little need to for the dual mounts, the need for the same two identical hot ends, etc... dual hot ends is hard enough to configure correctly let alone three and those crazies with the kraken.
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Re: Tri Hotend
Do you lose anything by only using 2 of the 3 nozzles though? Just don't screw in the one that you're not using, and you'll know that you can always keep a spare around or upgrade later.Tinyhead wrote:This really caught me by surprise as I haven't seen it done like this yet.... would you be willing to make a dual hot end in the same type of platform? While 3 is crazy impressive, I think some of us that might be trying to achieve dual status would be very interested in something like this. There would be little need to for the dual mounts, the need for the same two identical hot ends, etc... dual hot ends is hard enough to configure correctly let alone three and those crazies with the kraken.
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Re: Tri Hotend
I agree with the statement made by Jim.Jimustanguitar wrote:Do you lose anything by only using 2 of the 3 nozzles though? Just don't screw in the one that you're not using, and you'll know that you can always keep a spare around or upgrade later.Tinyhead wrote:This really caught me by surprise as I haven't seen it done like this yet.... would you be willing to make a dual hot end in the same type of platform? While 3 is crazy impressive, I think some of us that might be trying to achieve dual status would be very interested in something like this. There would be little need to for the dual mounts, the need for the same two identical hot ends, etc... dual hot ends is hard enough to configure correctly let alone three and those crazies with the kraken.
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Re: Tri Hotend
I don't know about that, they're busy making their own parts on their machines, plus that type of lathe is for bigger stuff. Running hundreds of tiny brass nozzles or the thermal isolators or the aluminum hex heater blocks or the main grooved heat sink would take a ton of time. Also it seems kind of weird since they're going to be selling their own full metal hotend soon, at least I think that's what they're doing in the facebook pictures.See if SeeMeCNC can turn them out on their Mazak for you.
Not only do they have a bunch of laser cutters and a full size CNC lathe, they also have the biggest 3d printer in the world now... LUCKY
I'll check out that emachineshop thing, if they can do swiss type for large parts it might work out.
You have a milk budget? AIN'T NOBODY GOT TIME FO DAT!For me this may justify a second machine to put this on.
I am saving up my milk money! Or is it beer money?...
Yes. I might just offer the same Tri hotend but with only two heater blocks instead of three, and with a price reduction. It's still a lot more compact than two regular hotends.would you be willing to make a dual hot end in the same type of platform?
Can somebody try printing the attached Rostock max effector plate for this? I don't have the V2 Max with the new end effector, but it looks like three of the mounting holes will line up with the new one. PLA will not work as a mounting platform for this hotend since it gets soft at such a low temperature. The heat sink gets pretty hot if it's used without a cooling fan at 280 degrees for three nozzles printing trimmer line.
And Eagle, I apologize about the lack of downloads on polystroooder.com. I'm trying to get it set up to work with their eProduct system, but they aren't used to having free downloads for everyone:)
I'll just put the printable parts on an STL hosting website and link to them.
- Attachments
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- Magnetic effector for tri hotend.STL
- (894.13 KiB) Downloaded 428 times
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- Rostock max effector adapter for tri hotend.STL
- (756.04 KiB) Downloaded 442 times
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Re: Tri Hotend
Thanks for posting the links to the STL files, I downloaded them fine, thanks.
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Re: Tri Hotend
I was just messing around with the PID temperature control for this thing with a smoothieboard. It heats up really fast and cools down really slow. Once it's at the right temperature it holds +-0.2 degrees at 260 C.
I had to change my PID a lot from other hotends since this one has a lot less thermal mass. The first time I did it without changing settings I overshot the temperature by 70 degrees!
I had to change my PID a lot from other hotends since this one has a lot less thermal mass. The first time I did it without changing settings I overshot the temperature by 70 degrees!
Check out the Tri hotend!
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Re: Tri Hotend
OK, I think I'm finally ready to start selling these. I had problems with the payment processor but they should be fixed now. Dwolla only for now.
Just to make sure before I actually sell, does the Rostock Max V2 have 2 foot long bowden tubes? My top mount extruder is fine with 2 foot tubes but I want to make sure the length is right before I ship anything.
Just to make sure before I actually sell, does the Rostock Max V2 have 2 foot long bowden tubes? My top mount extruder is fine with 2 foot tubes but I want to make sure the length is right before I ship anything.
Check out the Tri hotend!
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Re: Tri Hotend
What is Dwolla?Generic Default wrote:OK, I think I'm finally ready to start selling these. I had problems with the payment processor but they should be fixed now. Dwolla only for now.
Just to make sure before I actually sell, does the Rostock Max V2 have 2 foot long bowden tubes? My top mount extruder is fine with 2 foot tubes but I want to make sure the length is right before I ship anything.
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Re: Tri Hotend
Dwolla is a payment processor for online retail. Similar to Paypal (there are dozens of others) but Dwolla is much faster with the transaction and doesn't steal 15% of the sale. The downside is that it takes a couple minutes longer for the checkout process.
I plan on getting more payment processors for the website in the near future.
I plan on getting more payment processors for the website in the near future.
Check out the Tri hotend!
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Re: Tri Hotend
So just to be sure, what is included with the XXXtruder. The heating cartridges, are there fans for the cooling along with the shrouds?Generic Default wrote:Dwolla is a payment processor for online retail. Similar to Paypal (there are dozens of others) but Dwolla is much faster with the transaction and doesn't steal 15% of the sale. The downside is that it takes a couple minutes longer for the checkout process.
I plan on getting more payment processors for the website in the near future.
Any instructions?
Also the 2 Feet of PTFE should be fine, that is close to what is sent with the V2 kit.
One other thing, the thermistors probably use a manual thermistor table, could you post the appropriate table to use with the tri-extruder, I am horrible trying
to figure out these tables. (for Repetier obviously)
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Re: Tri Hotend
What comes in the box:
- 1 Tri heatsink
- 3 Tri hexagon heater blocks
- 3 Tri thermal isolators
- 1 0.50mm M6 brass nozzle
- 2 0.35mm M6 brass nozzles
- 3 2 foot long 2mmID 4mmOD PTFE bowden tubes
- 3 12v 40 watt 6mm heater cartridges
- 3 104GT-2 Semitec thermistors
- 6 uncut glass fiber sleeves (for thermistor connections)
- 7 crimp tubes (for thermistor connections)
- 6 short zip ties (for wire management)
- 6 uncut electrical wires (for thermistor connections)
- 1 30mm or 40mm 12 volt fan
- 6 M4 set screws
- 3 M3 short hex head screws (for the thermistors)
- 2 M3 long hex head screws (for the fan)
- 1 small hex wrench for the set screws
- Printed instructions and important information
What you need:
- A working 3d printer
- Basic assembly skills
- Pliers
- Scissors
- Electrical Multimeter (recommended) - Time
I just copy pasted that straight from polystroooder.com The kit will include everything you need (the Rostock Max/Orion adapter plate too) along with printed instructions for DIY assembly and some other paper stuff. I was just working on the assembly instructions now, I'll show you what I have so far;
- 1 Tri heatsink
- 3 Tri hexagon heater blocks
- 3 Tri thermal isolators
- 1 0.50mm M6 brass nozzle
- 2 0.35mm M6 brass nozzles
- 3 2 foot long 2mmID 4mmOD PTFE bowden tubes
- 3 12v 40 watt 6mm heater cartridges
- 3 104GT-2 Semitec thermistors
- 6 uncut glass fiber sleeves (for thermistor connections)
- 7 crimp tubes (for thermistor connections)
- 6 short zip ties (for wire management)
- 6 uncut electrical wires (for thermistor connections)
- 1 30mm or 40mm 12 volt fan
- 6 M4 set screws
- 3 M3 short hex head screws (for the thermistors)
- 2 M3 long hex head screws (for the fan)
- 1 small hex wrench for the set screws
- Printed instructions and important information
What you need:
- A working 3d printer
- Basic assembly skills
- Pliers
- Scissors
- Electrical Multimeter (recommended) - Time
I just copy pasted that straight from polystroooder.com The kit will include everything you need (the Rostock Max/Orion adapter plate too) along with printed instructions for DIY assembly and some other paper stuff. I was just working on the assembly instructions now, I'll show you what I have so far;
Check out the Tri hotend!
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Re: Tri Hotend
That information was exactly what I was looking for, I must have missed it on the site.
I did figure out that for Repetier, the thermistors would be set for type 8, the same as the E3D.
Thanks for the info.
I did figure out that for Repetier, the thermistors would be set for type 8, the same as the E3D.
Thanks for the info.
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