Layers Thicker Front/Back vs Left/Right
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Layers Thicker Front/Back vs Left/Right
Any ideas what settings to change when the layers deposited at the front and back of the glass build plate are thicker than the layers on the left and right of the glass build plate?
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- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
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Re: Layers Thicker Front/Back vs Left/Right
It's most likely a levelling issue, I.e. You need to adjust your endstops.
Though the symptoms are usually higher or lower nearer a tower.
Though the symptoms are usually higher or lower nearer a tower.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
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Re: Layers Thicker Front/Back vs Left/Right
...the end stops are calibrated with three point leveling at each tower and the printer_radius is flat at the center and three towers such that a yellow sticky barely drags between the hot end and the glass build plate at all 4 leveling locations.
This is why I don't understand why there seems to be a concave up bow left/right (resulting in thinner layers left/right) and a concave bow down front/back (resulting in thicker layers front/back)...any other ideas?
This is why I don't understand why there seems to be a concave up bow left/right (resulting in thinner layers left/right) and a concave bow down front/back (resulting in thicker layers front/back)...any other ideas?
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Re: Layers Thicker Front/Back vs Left/Right
...by the way I moved a round bullseye level around the build plate and the bubble stayed centered according to my visual observation when I moved it front/back/left/right so I don't think the glass itself if bowed. I think the printhead is moving in a bowed fashion, riding higher in the front/back of the build plate and lower on the left/right sides of the build plate. Any ideas what's going on?
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- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
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Re: Layers Thicker Front/Back vs Left/Right
Front back, left right doesn't make very much sense for a delta, you need to describe it in relation to the towers I would guess what you are seeing is the print head rising or falling between the towers. It's a combination of issues, if the arm length is set incorrectly and thou accommodate the error with delta radius, you introduce what looks like a saddle shape where the points between the towers are higher or lower than the calibration points immediately below the towers.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
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Re: Layers Thicker Front/Back vs Left/Right
I'm still having uneven first layer problems. Using Highcooley's bed leveling aid (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50505) my first layer is noticeably thicker at the z tower and in-between the x / y towers. It is noticeably thinner in between the z / x towers and the z / y towers.
I'm using the Tricklaser carbon fiber arms w/ #define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 269.0 // mm; however I tried 267 and the problem just got worse and 271 did not improve things.
Any ideas on what could be causing my wavy first layer problems? I have some prints I need to do for my day job, so any suggestions are appreciated.
I'm using the Tricklaser carbon fiber arms w/ #define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 269.0 // mm; however I tried 267 and the problem just got worse and 271 did not improve things.
Any ideas on what could be causing my wavy first layer problems? I have some prints I need to do for my day job, so any suggestions are appreciated.
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- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
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Re: Layers Thicker Front/Back vs Left/Right
I don't suppose you have any way to accurately measure the trick laser arms pivot center to pivot center? I know they are supposed to be the same length as the SeeMeCNC arms, but I don't have them to verify that.inventabuild wrote:I'm still having uneven first layer problems. Using Highcooley's bed leveling aid (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50505) my first layer is noticeably thicker at the z tower and in-between the x / y towers. It is noticeably thinner in between the z / x towers and the z / y towers.
I'm using the Tricklaser carbon fiber arms w/ #define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 269.0 // mm; however I tried 267 and the problem just got worse and 271 did not improve things.
Any ideas on what could be causing my wavy first layer problems? I have some prints I need to do for my day job, so any suggestions are appreciated.
If you are high at a tower, you need to adjust the end stop screw, you will likely still end up with high or low spots between the towers, much like the image in the other thread on this subject, see this post http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 110#p44359
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/
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Re: Layers Thicker Front/Back vs Left/Right
The problem is that when I have a high tower (thick print layer) and lower it (to make an acceptable first layer thickness) then the pre-existing low spots get even lower so I end am scraping the hot end on the glass. I'm trying to work with the high / low spots, but the first layer on the high spots sometimes don't bond well to the glass which ultimately ends up ruining a lot of prints for one reason or another.
seemecnc needs to get on the ball...I've spent way more time trying to get my printer properly calibrated and working properly than what I originally bought it for which is to make good quality 3d prints.
I really appreciate you trying to help.
seemecnc needs to get on the ball...I've spent way more time trying to get my printer properly calibrated and working properly than what I originally bought it for which is to make good quality 3d prints.
I really appreciate you trying to help.
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- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
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Re: Layers Thicker Front/Back vs Left/Right
The reason I ask about the tricklaser arms is because the person reporting the same issue in the other thread also has them, and if the actual length is even slightly (fractions of a mm) different than the original SeeMe arms, then that needs to be changed in the firmware.
SeeMeCNC did recently change the suggested delta radius value, there is a post on the main sites blog, you'll need to clear the EEPROM to make the change.
You really need to get the 3 tower Z's correct then adjust the ZHeight/radius to accommodate the center point if at that point the error is not symmetric with the towers, you most likely have an asymmetry in your build.
Assuming that all the measurements in the firmware are good, then it can only be one of two things, the firmware or a mechanical assembly issue, if the arms aren't positioned symmetrically, you get a similar issue. The nature of delta printers makes mechanical assembly errors show up in z position at various points on the table.
SeeMeCNC did recently change the suggested delta radius value, there is a post on the main sites blog, you'll need to clear the EEPROM to make the change.
You really need to get the 3 tower Z's correct then adjust the ZHeight/radius to accommodate the center point if at that point the error is not symmetric with the towers, you most likely have an asymmetry in your build.
Assuming that all the measurements in the firmware are good, then it can only be one of two things, the firmware or a mechanical assembly issue, if the arms aren't positioned symmetrically, you get a similar issue. The nature of delta printers makes mechanical assembly errors show up in z position at various points on the table.
Printer blog http://3dprinterhell.blogspot.com/