Print stopping (again) fixed??

[DavidF]

I have been working on a print for the last couple of days that kept stopping mid print. Before the print stopped it would start leaving some strange lead in and out marks on the perimiter and you could hear the printers sound change. the print would stop in exactly the same place on the lead in mark. I re did the model and tried again, the height it stopped at changed but still quit on the exact lead in mark. I was slicing in cure 13.07, but have just upgraded to the latest version re sliced it and its printing now. Im pretty certain it has it fixed but wont know for sure for another 8 hours LOL, But it has made it past the point where it acted up many times before. Im still using the firmware version from Oct last year (never upgraded) This is just an FYI and I will post later tonight with some more information. The model im printing is a 3 lobed rotor for a supercharger, when I was test printing it with out lightening holes thru the rotor it printed just fine, but once the holes were added thats when it started acting up and repeatably. I checked and repaired the model in netfabb, still acted up.
Have to go to work now, will follow up later on....

[Eaglezsoar]

In your opinion is it the new version of Cura that fixed the problem?

[DavidF]

On this model, so far it is a definet yes, 5 more hours of printing left......
The hanna model on thingiverse I was fighting last year had a similar issue. I will have to re try it as well....

[DavidF]

Printed fine that time, no problems....I did notice that I had changed the layer height on this print from the previous failed prints, so Im running it again and matching the slice setting to be fair about things. If the image uploads ok the black rotor is the latest print, the yellow one ran out of filament befor it was completed but it did not have the holes in it to lighten the rotor. It wasnt until i added the holes that I started having problems. The tall grey rotor is a helix rotor that does not have the holes either and it printed ok but not the best of prints. The two in the front show the lead in (or is it out?) marks and where the print stopped. the difference in the height is possibly due to me reworking the model thinking that was the problem. Very interesting to say the least.
Something else I noticed but am hesitant to speculate on was that I was having trouble with the extruder plugging and starving at points in the print that has also seemingly gone away but that could be the layer thinckness. It was having trouble at .2 mm layer and printed great at .3mm. Im re printing at .2mm now to see what happens.

[DavidF]

here is the two failed rotors from the front of the previous pics. Hopefully you can the the lead in and out marks and the blob indicating where the printer stopped. Plus the filament starvation on the black rotor.
[img]http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g446/davidflowers1/utf-8BSU1BRzA3NjEuanBn.jpg[/img]

[DavidF]

The stalling problem was definetly fixed by the latest version of cura, but the hot end plugged when the print was about 80% completed
Waiting on a new J head from hotends.com (thanks for that Gene!) Couldnt resist trying one out after seeing that crater print. If it prints as well as i hope I will be ordering a second one and going for dual print heads which I keep putting off.

[geneb]

I ran the Valles Marinaris(sp?) model yesterday and it came out perfect.

I've got a .25 version of the j-head that I'll be using as soon as I get another quick-change mount made for it.

g.

[DavidF]

I ran the Valles Marinaris(sp?) model yesterday and it came out perfect.

I've got a .25 version of the j-head that I'll be using as soon as I get another quick-change mount made for it.

g.

Did you have to drill and tap the insulator for a bowden tube?? I didnt see anything on thier sight about working with a bowden tube...

[Eaglezsoar]

I ran the Valles Marinaris(sp?) model yesterday and it came out perfect.

I've got a .25 version of the j-head that I'll be using as soon as I get another quick-change mount made for it.

g.

Did you have to drill and tap the insulator for a bowden tube?? I didnt see anything on thier sight about working with a bowden tube...

See this link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104828

There are other printable mounts for the j-head and bowden on Thingiverse.
Do a search for j-head or Jhead and you will find dozens and dozens some are designed with the bowden tube.

[DavidF]

Thanks Eaglezsoar..

[geneb]

I use a variant of this mount: http://www.tricklaser.com/J-Head-Groove ... JHGMNT.htm

The mount uses a 5mm t-nut which works perfectly with the stock push-fit connector. I haven't used the .25 nozzle yet as I haven't had the time to make a new mount for it. (You can have my laser cutter when you pry it out of my cold, dead, hands. )

g.

[DavidF]

ok new hot end arrived today and I just finished drilling and tapping it for the treaded thermister. Now onto the mount...What is the radius of the bolt holes in the effector mounting plate? Going to make my own.......