New Taulman 618 Nylon filament available at SeeMeCNC!

[mhackney]

Just posted today on the SeeMeCNC Facebook page and in their online store - the new Taulman 618 Nylon filament designed for 3D printing! Very cool stuff, I've been keeping my eye on this for a while.

You can get information and printer settings here: http://www.taulman3d.com/specifications.html

It does require a higher temp on the hot end but within the range of our machines. Here's the ordering page: http://shop.seemecnc.com/Taulman-618-Nylon_c24.htm

I got my order in for some 1.75mm filament. Really looking forward to trying it.

cheers,
Michael

[tom10122]

If I had money I totally would.

[BenitoSanduchi]

I've been printing with 618 for a few months on my MendelMax. I love it, it's a game changing material for us.

Seriously thinking about buying a RostockMax for our business. Would love to see some RostockMax nylon print examples to see how it prints with your bowden setup!

Cheers,
Ben Malouf

[Polygonhell]

Well I finally got a workable print out of my roll of 618, to say that it warps a bit is something of an understatement.
I probably printed 10 test cubes under different conditions before I got something vaguely acceptable, for anyone trying this you have to print much slower than even with ABS, the 1.75mm filament is very flexible and has a tendency to kink as it exits the drive roller.

I tried heated PET tape on glass, first layer looked good warped off by layer 10
I tried Blue Painters tape, Nylon sticks to it but pulls it off the glass when it warps
I tried a raft of blue painters tape, better but even with a massive raft the base was curved
I tried a raft on blue painters tape, pausing the print at the end of the raft, letting it cool then printing the cube cold on the raft, almost usable
I bought an untreated poplar board from home depot, printed on it cold - mostly works but it's not very flat which causes part of the print to detach
I printed a raft on the poplar board and got a pretty good print

All in all if you can combat the warping I really like the material, I'll post some pictures of some prints tomorrow, I like the look and feel and I really like the strength and the way Nylon on Nylon feels for mechanical parts. I printed a Maker bolt and nut in Nylon to compare to the ABS one and it really is night and day how much better the nylon version moves.

I just got the machinable Nylon 6 plate I ordered, and I'm going to try printing on thatI'm hoping it's stiff enough not to get distorted by the print, but flexible enough to let me get parts off by flexing it, I'll let people know how it goes.

[Polygonhell]

As Promised pictures of the Makerbolt in Nylon. The off white print is in ABS.
I spent very little time on calibration for this print, outside of trying to print anything that didn't warp. You can see the surface finish pretty well in the second shot, it's a pity you can't "feel the difference".
I'm printing it at 245C, although I can print colder it delaminates because of the warping forces, I had to slow way down to prevent it buckling.

[USMCPelto]

How slow did you have to go to get the bumps/ridges into the "grip" part of that screw? The level of detail for something that small is impressive.

[Polygonhell]

How slow did you have to go to get the bumps/ridges into the "grip" part of that screw? The level of detail for something that small is impressive.

I honestly don't remember, I usually run between 20 and 30 mm/s depending on how big the part is, it was probably limited by the cooling settings though so it's hard to tell.
It wasn't a particularly long print. IME the detail is much more a function of adequate cooling than speed, speed plays into that, but it's not the only contributor.

[6bolt2g]

What kind of settings are you using for the retract?

I'm struggling to get that right. Otherwise I love this material, I can't believe how strong it is!