Found a quick way to unclog nozzles

[Gr8Scott]

I managed to clog two nozzles using T-glase today because my Z was set too low and it managed to scrape up enough particulate matter off the glass bed to clog the nozzles twice. I had one spare .40 nozzle that was previously clogged with ABS and cleaning it out was a simple matter of soaking it in acetone until the ABS turned into pretty much a liquid and then mashing a thin rod in the back end to push out anything left inside. Worked like a champ, but I found that T-Glase doesn't work the same and cannot be dissolved using normal household liquids. Had to find another way to knock out the goop in it...

Decided to throw mass quantities of heat at it using mapp gas torch. Turned the torch on low and put the mildest part of the flame on the tip and heated the nozzle past the point where it stunk a bit and heated it until I saw small red flecks forming on the outside. Then I kept it at this heat for a while before turning the torch off and letting it cool. I rested the nozzles top side up in a vise without tightening it down on the threads. Worked like a champ. Used a sewing pin to knock a little of the residue out of the nozzles and they were good as new (just not as shiny as they once were...). I'm using one of these nozzles right now as a matter of fact. Printing a Julia Bloom Vase for my sister-in-law's birthday present. Printing an oversized stein for my bro too.

Thought I'd share with the rest of you in case anyone else ran into the same problem.

[Eaglezsoar]

Sorry that it took so long to reply. Your method seems like it would work on virtually all filiments, thanks for the tip.

[guanu]

yup, I've used the torch method before... what also seems to work great for me is heating the hotend to temp, and taking the leg of a small resistor and raking it in and out of the nozzle a few times... this is my first go-to for clearing burnt bits and whatnot thats in the nozzle.. this works about 90% of the time... unless its a nasty clog, then I need to resort to further measures that require disassembly... but if you dont want to take anything apart, its a good try this first method.. just need to be EXTREMELY careful when playing around a hot hotend (my fingers and hands are proof, but how else will I learn?)

Guanu

[nitewatchman]

Was thinking the same way and ordered 0.018" Spring Steel wire to use to clean .5mm nozzles, arrived today.

Had to buy 100pcs. - 12" long but they are also pretty cheap. Idea is to mount a short piece on a handle.

If this works, I got lots. Will share for a SASE.

nitewatchman

[nitewatchman]

The 0.018" Spring Wire works very well to clean a 0.5mm clogged tip. There is a slight shear burr on the end but it is easily removed with a stroke of an oil stone. Fits tightly but it is not hard to start and pushes everything out.

I have 95 extra pieces if anyone wants one or two or three. A Self Addressed Stamped Envelope will get them. PM me if you want.

nitewatchman

[RegB]

I just melted the PEEK.
It SEEMS the thermistor popped out, so the Rambo heard "cold" and turned up the power.

Anyway, bottom half of the hot end was clogged with ABS and perhaps a bit of PEEK,
I have hand reamed it with a letter "R" drill, but the threads still seem filled.
I'll try an acetone soak, then a 3/8 24 tap.

$9 for a PEEK, plus shipping - nickels and dimes for resistors, I thin the thermistor is still good.

Would welder's tip cleaners work for "regular" tip cleaning ?

[nitewatchman]

Would welder's tip cleaners work for "regular" tip cleaning ?

Yes, if it contains a #77 (Drill Size) Cleaner, some do, some don't.
Most however are soft and bent quite easily.

[RegB]

Would welder's tip cleaners work for "regular" tip cleaning ?

Yes, if it contains a #77 (Drill Size) Cleaner, some do, some don't.
Most however are soft and bent quite easily.

My drills only go down to #60 {~40 thou}
I guess 1/2 mm is less than 1/2 that.

Soft is probably good, or you enlarge it by cleaning.
Copper weld tips, brass 3D printer tips; probably a similar hardness range.

[Eaglezsoar]

I picked up a set of these mini metric drill bit sets, in fact I bought three of them and boy are they handy!
Mine took about a week to get to me but they are invaluable for 3D printer work.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Drill-Mini-Siz ... set&dpPl=1

[Gr8Scott]

My nozzles are .40 from E3D. Can't use the spring steel for that. Sounds like a pretty good idea. I have a couple of pin vises, so I might see if I can scrape up a nice .40 mm bit for one of them and use that next time I get a clog.

[RegB]

The small E3D V6 nozzle is 0.25 - I don't now how I would clean that mechanically, so it might be acetone only.

REALLY gonna hafta get back in touch with some machine shop dudes.

[Eaglezsoar]

My nozzles are .40 from E3D. Can't use the spring steel for that. Sounds like a pretty good idea. I have a couple of pin vises, so I might see if I can scrape up a nice .40 mm bit for one of them and use that next time I get a clog.

The tiny metric drill bits are really small, that's why I ordered 3 of them. They can break or get lost and I always want one in reserve. Best I have found in a marked "case".

[RegB]

Piano wire from Grainger is cheap - but a pound of it comes to more than a thousand feet, over two thousand feet if you want to clean out 0.25 mm nozzles (-:

[teejaydub]

Piano wire may go smaller, but for 0.5 mm nozzles, guitar strings may be easier to come by: http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessor ... ar-strings

[DavidF]

Im a bit against burning out nozzles as they dont seem to print as nice if you get them too hot. DME will disolve the PLA out of a nozzle but it takes over night.

[Gr8Scott]

My burned out nozzles seem to print just fine so long as I don't try to push the envelope. I think all nozzles would perform the same. They print Taulman 645 with ease. Haven't tried the ABS with it yet, but that's next on my list.